Venice: August 30-September 2, 2016
August 30, 2016
AlteCocker is picked up on the morning of August 30, 2016, by Matteo, the boyfriend of my home exchangers' daughter. He takes me to the Lecco train station where she takes the train to Milan. The train had no airconditioning and people must think opening the windows is an affront to nature. At first AlteCocker has no seat, but, as usual for AlteCockers, someone offers her a seat. There are a very few advantages to being a senior citizen. Generally getting a seat when some kind hearted soul offers is one of them.
The train was late in Lecco and that is probably why it ran slowly running into the Milan Cental Station. There is barely enough time to catch the Venice train. Remember AlteCocker is dealing with her large suitcase this time--and it does weigh in as a bit unwieldy. She falls asleep on the train, but there is no possibility of missing her stop. Venice is the last stop. There was a problem, however. The handle on her suitcase would not budge and is stuck on one side. She has to drag the suitcase without benefit of an extended handle. She opts for a 3 day vaparetto pass but has to wait for the 2nd boat. There are a lot of people and the suitcase is, well, a pain in the ass. She does get off at the correct stop and than has to drag the damned suitcase across Piazza San Marco to Search for her hotel--the Best Western MonteCarlo. No matter what map you use, you will have problems with street names in Venice. Streets are often no more than alleys and they change names all the time. Eventually, AlteCocker arrives and has a small room with a double bed with great air conditioning and wifi; the hotel is very close to Piazza San Marco. The hotel is very nice and she recommends it highly. Just before arriving at the hotel, by the way--as in the last block--some strong guy yanks the handle free. That handle will now stay extended until she dumps the bag at the airport to go home. If there is further trouble upon arrival at Dulles, that suitcase will be put out in AlteCocker's backyard for the trash company. It's either wheels or handles that cause all the problems with suitcases. The old purple one, by the way, which featured so prominently in AlteCocker's Malaysia trip, went home with the people from Iceland. No more new suitcases, however, until AlteCocker sells her home and downsizes next spring--just suitcases cursing.
After arriving at the hotel, AlteCocker had lunch Trattoria alla Scala--which is 5 minutes from the hotel. She went there on the desk's recommendation. She had sea bass and too much wine. After lunch a siesta was called for. In the evening she was, however, ready to head out to the opera at Palazzo Barbarigo Minotte. AlteCocker had read about this opera in her research and definitely put it on her "not to miss" list. It was 75 euros, but well worth it. The opera was "La Traviata". It was in an old Venetian Palazzo and each act was in a different room. Programs (containing the libretto) were 5 euros). Each act of the opera takes place in a different room of the Palazzo. One of the rooms has a ceiling by Tiepolo. You can't experience that in the US. The maximum audience number is 70 so you do have to book. AlteCocker had, by the way, no trouble asking the hotel to do the booking for her and snagging a ticket the same day. The price does put some people off, but, again, AlteCocker highly recommends this You do get prosecco (Italian bubbly) with your ticket at one of the intermissions. The singers practically sing among the audience. It is really up close and intimate.
On the way back to the hotel, AlteCocker has a gelato. In Piazza San Marco some of the bars have entertainment. One group begins to play songs from "Fiddler on the Roof". OK, AlteCocker decides to sit down and quickly learns there is a 6 euro cover charge. Since the music will stop shortly as the day finally ends in Venice, AlteCocker bags it. It certainly would have been fun earlier in the evening but there is insufficient time now. She heads home to her cushy hotel room for another shower and bed.
The train was late in Lecco and that is probably why it ran slowly running into the Milan Cental Station. There is barely enough time to catch the Venice train. Remember AlteCocker is dealing with her large suitcase this time--and it does weigh in as a bit unwieldy. She falls asleep on the train, but there is no possibility of missing her stop. Venice is the last stop. There was a problem, however. The handle on her suitcase would not budge and is stuck on one side. She has to drag the suitcase without benefit of an extended handle. She opts for a 3 day vaparetto pass but has to wait for the 2nd boat. There are a lot of people and the suitcase is, well, a pain in the ass. She does get off at the correct stop and than has to drag the damned suitcase across Piazza San Marco to Search for her hotel--the Best Western MonteCarlo. No matter what map you use, you will have problems with street names in Venice. Streets are often no more than alleys and they change names all the time. Eventually, AlteCocker arrives and has a small room with a double bed with great air conditioning and wifi; the hotel is very close to Piazza San Marco. The hotel is very nice and she recommends it highly. Just before arriving at the hotel, by the way--as in the last block--some strong guy yanks the handle free. That handle will now stay extended until she dumps the bag at the airport to go home. If there is further trouble upon arrival at Dulles, that suitcase will be put out in AlteCocker's backyard for the trash company. It's either wheels or handles that cause all the problems with suitcases. The old purple one, by the way, which featured so prominently in AlteCocker's Malaysia trip, went home with the people from Iceland. No more new suitcases, however, until AlteCocker sells her home and downsizes next spring--just suitcases cursing.
After arriving at the hotel, AlteCocker had lunch Trattoria alla Scala--which is 5 minutes from the hotel. She went there on the desk's recommendation. She had sea bass and too much wine. After lunch a siesta was called for. In the evening she was, however, ready to head out to the opera at Palazzo Barbarigo Minotte. AlteCocker had read about this opera in her research and definitely put it on her "not to miss" list. It was 75 euros, but well worth it. The opera was "La Traviata". It was in an old Venetian Palazzo and each act was in a different room. Programs (containing the libretto) were 5 euros). Each act of the opera takes place in a different room of the Palazzo. One of the rooms has a ceiling by Tiepolo. You can't experience that in the US. The maximum audience number is 70 so you do have to book. AlteCocker had, by the way, no trouble asking the hotel to do the booking for her and snagging a ticket the same day. The price does put some people off, but, again, AlteCocker highly recommends this You do get prosecco (Italian bubbly) with your ticket at one of the intermissions. The singers practically sing among the audience. It is really up close and intimate.
On the way back to the hotel, AlteCocker has a gelato. In Piazza San Marco some of the bars have entertainment. One group begins to play songs from "Fiddler on the Roof". OK, AlteCocker decides to sit down and quickly learns there is a 6 euro cover charge. Since the music will stop shortly as the day finally ends in Venice, AlteCocker bags it. It certainly would have been fun earlier in the evening but there is insufficient time now. She heads home to her cushy hotel room for another shower and bed.
August 31, 2016: Done in By the Doge's Palce and San Marco
AlteCocker goes down for breakfast at the Best Western MonteCarlo and is greated by a huge spread including cuisine any nationality including Americans would love. The only thing lacking is one of those very messy waffle machines (AlteCocker hates waffle machines as the waffle mixture ends up making a mess of everything). For some reason there was a sort of chocolate mousse cake which AlteCocker could not resist. She also had eggs and fruit but you could have eaten enough to fill yourself up until dinner. This is one heck of a spread.
Then it is on to the main event, the "secret tour" of the Doge's Palace. Please, guys, if you want to do this, book well in advance (as AlteCocker did) but be prepared for lots of stairs. There are only 75 slots for English speakers every day. The tour is done only in the morning during the season because you go to the upper floors and it gets too hot in the afternoon. Those of you with limited time would probably just want to do the "regular" tour without the secret stuff. AlteCocker's tour of the Palace was at 9:55am. After doing the secret tour (which includes the rooms where the state prisoners were kept), you then do the regular tour. The secret tour is about 1 1/2 hours. Add at least another hour for the rest of the palace--more if you want to contemplate each picture or ceiling. The palace is absolutely loaded with Titian, Tintoretto, etc. Most of the murals involve the doge (the elected leader of Venice's council who could not refuse his position; check the history books on the details), religion and varioius Venetian victories. The ceilings and paintings overwhelm and AlteCocker stopped looking after awhile. You can only take in so much. They do allow photos without flash, but AlteCocker didn't take many. Was she really going to remember who painted what? No. It is a question of too much of a good thing.
The guide for the secret tour was very informative. She will ask the group questions. If you get one correct, you get kudos from the guide. AlteCocker read her guidebooks well before doing the tour and looked like a fucking genius. At one point one guy was singled out to be the torture victim. They didn't care about the downside of torture in those days anymore than Dick Cheney cared about the downside of waterboarding. They would tie someone's arms behind his back and lift him in the air and drop him quickly--dislocacting his arms at the sockets--not very nice. Torture was done only in the nighttime and the other prisoners could hear the "music" as they awaited their turn. We also saw Cassanova's cell and heard the totally incredible story he told of his escape. It largely made no sense; the real story is that he probably bribed someone.
After finishing the post secret tour regular tour, AlteCocker went on to Basilica San Marco. She did not prebook but the queue to get in was about 10 minutes. She did all the side tours (treasure rooms, altarpiece/reputed San Marco remains, and, best of all the walk upstairs and outside. Upstairs you get up close and personal to the mosaics and he original horses stolen from then Constantinople. AlteCocker also used Rick Steves' tour of San Marco which focuses in on key items and takes about 50 minutes. It can be found on whatever podcast app you use or the Steves' site. He can be very funny at times. The horses are supposed to date from before Christianity began--perhaps from Ancient Greece. San Marco is the closest thing AlteCocker has seen to Hagia Sophia in Istanbul (which was originally a church, then a mosque, and now a museum). The mosaic work is stunning.
After enduring the mandatory sightseeing in the morning, it was time for lunch. This time she just "winged it" and chose Trattoria do Forni next door to her hotel. She had linguine with a lobster sauce, ONE glass of rose wine (no half bottle after yesterday's put AlteCocker in irreversible coma), and a piece of tiramisu. They added a service charge of 10%--something she is noticing more and more in fancier restaurants. Price was slightly more than Trattoria alla Scala, but worth it. AlteCocker is eating well in Venice.
Then it was time to attack the blog--which she did not do yesterday--shower, chill out, and make plans for the evening. The activity decided upon was a concert 5 minutes from her hotel. It was music from operas together with some singing by a soprano and tenor. It was only 28 euro. They have some sort of performance every night off to the left of Basilica San Marco as you face the church. Then she listened again to the dueling groups from the bars in the piazza.
Then it is on to the main event, the "secret tour" of the Doge's Palace. Please, guys, if you want to do this, book well in advance (as AlteCocker did) but be prepared for lots of stairs. There are only 75 slots for English speakers every day. The tour is done only in the morning during the season because you go to the upper floors and it gets too hot in the afternoon. Those of you with limited time would probably just want to do the "regular" tour without the secret stuff. AlteCocker's tour of the Palace was at 9:55am. After doing the secret tour (which includes the rooms where the state prisoners were kept), you then do the regular tour. The secret tour is about 1 1/2 hours. Add at least another hour for the rest of the palace--more if you want to contemplate each picture or ceiling. The palace is absolutely loaded with Titian, Tintoretto, etc. Most of the murals involve the doge (the elected leader of Venice's council who could not refuse his position; check the history books on the details), religion and varioius Venetian victories. The ceilings and paintings overwhelm and AlteCocker stopped looking after awhile. You can only take in so much. They do allow photos without flash, but AlteCocker didn't take many. Was she really going to remember who painted what? No. It is a question of too much of a good thing.
The guide for the secret tour was very informative. She will ask the group questions. If you get one correct, you get kudos from the guide. AlteCocker read her guidebooks well before doing the tour and looked like a fucking genius. At one point one guy was singled out to be the torture victim. They didn't care about the downside of torture in those days anymore than Dick Cheney cared about the downside of waterboarding. They would tie someone's arms behind his back and lift him in the air and drop him quickly--dislocacting his arms at the sockets--not very nice. Torture was done only in the nighttime and the other prisoners could hear the "music" as they awaited their turn. We also saw Cassanova's cell and heard the totally incredible story he told of his escape. It largely made no sense; the real story is that he probably bribed someone.
After finishing the post secret tour regular tour, AlteCocker went on to Basilica San Marco. She did not prebook but the queue to get in was about 10 minutes. She did all the side tours (treasure rooms, altarpiece/reputed San Marco remains, and, best of all the walk upstairs and outside. Upstairs you get up close and personal to the mosaics and he original horses stolen from then Constantinople. AlteCocker also used Rick Steves' tour of San Marco which focuses in on key items and takes about 50 minutes. It can be found on whatever podcast app you use or the Steves' site. He can be very funny at times. The horses are supposed to date from before Christianity began--perhaps from Ancient Greece. San Marco is the closest thing AlteCocker has seen to Hagia Sophia in Istanbul (which was originally a church, then a mosque, and now a museum). The mosaic work is stunning.
After enduring the mandatory sightseeing in the morning, it was time for lunch. This time she just "winged it" and chose Trattoria do Forni next door to her hotel. She had linguine with a lobster sauce, ONE glass of rose wine (no half bottle after yesterday's put AlteCocker in irreversible coma), and a piece of tiramisu. They added a service charge of 10%--something she is noticing more and more in fancier restaurants. Price was slightly more than Trattoria alla Scala, but worth it. AlteCocker is eating well in Venice.
Then it was time to attack the blog--which she did not do yesterday--shower, chill out, and make plans for the evening. The activity decided upon was a concert 5 minutes from her hotel. It was music from operas together with some singing by a soprano and tenor. It was only 28 euro. They have some sort of performance every night off to the left of Basilica San Marco as you face the church. Then she listened again to the dueling groups from the bars in the piazza.
September 1, 2016: Murano Glass, Shopping and Accademia
Today was AlteCocker's last day in the fabulous city of Venice. In the morning she heard about a free tour to the new Murano Glass Factory. The tour is, of course, designed to get you to buy things but the show room is more akin to a museum than anything else--except that everything is for sale. You walk around very carefully. In the end you stop in the tschotschoke division where you can actually find stuff you can afford. AlteCocker bought a glass Hassidic figure holding a cat--very funny--a present for a friend, and a glass Jewish star. She did not break the bank at Murano. There are lots of glass places on the island. Since AlteCocker did have a pass for the vaporettos she could have returned via tours of other glass places, but one glass place was enough.
She returned with her glass treasures and went to the shop across from the hotel, Glass Dream, and there she spent some big bucks (for AlteCocker) on 6 gorgeous tumbler glasses she had been eyeing. She had been in the shop once before and was going to go back earlier but the shop was full of Chinese buying out the place, so she did not interfere with her comparatively paltry purchase. So she finally bought herself a gift from the trip. The tumblers, of course, are being shipped. They should get to her house just after she does as they have to be made first.
Then AlteCocker took a vaporetto to the train station so she could take one back and listen to Rick Steves' Grand Canal cruise tour on her phone and take some photos without being encumbered with luggage. When the boat stopped at the Accademia, Venice's definitive Venetian art museum, she got off. She had lunch (a panini type sandwich, together with a "spritz" (a Venetian "cooler" that contains fruit juice, alcohol, and seltzer water) and a bottle of water. It was mediocre and overpriced, but, hey, the place overlooked the Grand Canal.
Then it was into the Accademia to tackle the museum. The museum was virtually empty. The day trippers never have the time to go there as they are focussed on Piazza San Marco and shopping. It was Titian, Tinterreto, and Veronese overload very quickly. Too many Jesus pictures, but that is what they largely painted in Venice during the Middle Ages/Renaissance; look in the background and you can see the beginning of perspective. Paintings of ordinary people came later. Veronese's painting of the Last Supper that got him in trouble with the Inquisition is there; he got out of the fix by labeling the picture as something else. The paintings mostly were originally done for churches and the like, but now have been moved to the museum. Many are huge and the last room saves the best for last. There the paintings displayed were specifically made to fit that room. Holy cow! AlteCocker did not photograph any of the paintings. The canvases are largely huge and it would have been almost impossible to do them justice with AlteCocker's puny equipment. Was she going to remember which was Titian, Tinteretto, etc.? No she wasn't, so you will have to go and see for yourselves.
Then she realized that the next vaporettos were going to the train station at the Accademia stop because, she guessed, it was rush hour going to the train station, as Venice's workers commute outside Venice to their homes. Venice has become so expensive to live in that most of the workers live outside the city--and the city is in fact losing population. So she crossed the bridge at Academia and eventually made it back to Piazza San Marco. She only had to ask the way a couple of times before she saw the "per San Marco" signs. In Venice, forget the street signs. Look for signs that indicated how to get to Rialto or San Marco and you will get there. She stopped for the required gelato and made her way back to the Best Western Montecarlo. Tomorrow she must say good-bye to the hotel and Venice, schlep the luggage to the vaporetto and begin her way back to the train station for the 1:00pm train to Florence. Florence is the last stop on AlteCocker's summer tour before she wraps it up and goes home exhausted and happy.
September 2, 2016: Good Bye VEnice
Venice is history. AlteCocker schleps her bag to the train station for the Italotreno train to Florence. The vaporetto passes by the Rialto Bridge with AlteCocker, for once, standing in the right place. She finally gets some photos of the damn bridge.
Being early to the station means you wait, but Italotreno has a waiting room with internet. Yeah, right, as with any free internet, it takes several tries. She sends her friends in Florence an email letting them know everything is according to plan, but they don't get it until after AlteCocker arrives.
Once AlteCocker is on the train, she carefully stores her bag with the handle extended. No more trouble from the damn handle. Yeah, right. Some "helpful" individual rearranges luggage and depresses the handle with the eventual struggle with it in the Florence train station upon arrival. Someone yanks it up. That damn suitcase is headed directly to trash in the US.
The story of the trip in Florence continues here.
Being early to the station means you wait, but Italotreno has a waiting room with internet. Yeah, right, as with any free internet, it takes several tries. She sends her friends in Florence an email letting them know everything is according to plan, but they don't get it until after AlteCocker arrives.
Once AlteCocker is on the train, she carefully stores her bag with the handle extended. No more trouble from the damn handle. Yeah, right. Some "helpful" individual rearranges luggage and depresses the handle with the eventual struggle with it in the Florence train station upon arrival. Someone yanks it up. That damn suitcase is headed directly to trash in the US.
The story of the trip in Florence continues here.