Dublin, Ireland, August 1-17, 2022
July 31-August 1, 2022, arriving at the house of many tvs
. Someone told AlteCocker to enjoy her flight. AlteCocker has never enjoyed her flight--especially not recently. She doesn't dare check luggage. It is two pieces of hand luggage and a purse the officious lady at the American Airlines counter tells her she has too many pieces. AlteCocker tells her she plans to shove her purse into one of the bags. That was OK. She forgets that she has ordered a wheelchair and walks to the gate. As per usual, due to two spinal and two shoulder surgeries, she gets the wand treatment. Eventually she makes to security and walks to the gate with luggage to board her American Airlines flight to Charlotte, NC, where she will board the flight to Dublin for her 75th home exchange since 1990. AlteCocker is now 75 and this may be the last overseas home exchange. Between covid (AlteCocker has had all her shots/boosters), and the orthopedic ravages of old age, maybe she will soon be confined to North America. Who knows? At this point she was confined to the plane, however, and it spent a long time sitting on the tarmac. The pilot mumbles something about about weather. It wasn't true. Later she learns American Airlines had major problems with planes in Charlotte on July 31st. AlteCocker spent a long time worrying if she would make her connection to Dublin. Fortunately, AlteCpcker has a wheelchair waiting in Charlotte and she makes it to the Dublin flight in plenty of time with bulging hand luggage.
AlteCocker is seated in an seat near the toilets that does not recline. How that happened, well, she probably made a mistake when booking seats. You know all those damn options as they encourage you to pay more for your seat and heaven knows what else. Fortunate the plane is only half full. AlteCocker asks nicely and she is given a choice of a window or an aisle in economy plus. No problem at all.
Now, why, pray tell when Air Linguis flies nonstop from Dulles is AlteCoocker flying via that sprawling Charlotte Airport? AlteCocker is trying to use up her American frequent flyer miles before she drops dead. No sense saving them as she reaches the end of her exotic vacation career. When you use them, you don't always get the most convenient route. Free flight come with some downsides.
The flight ends, a wheelchair is available and AlteCocker is wheeled out of international arrivals where one of her home exchangers meets her and she then discovers it is a couple with two teenagers and not just a couple making the trip to her home. They will have to set up the guest bedrooms as the didn't. They drive AlteCocker to their home and then have a taxi taking them back to the airport. Warning: AlteCocker tried to get euros in the Dublin Airport. The ATM machine there is one that is a total rip off with an expensive commission. So she has only a handful of euros from her last trip--a problem that will have to be rectified on August 2nd. When you are way out in the remote suburbs, there is not an ATM on every street corner.
As is true with all exchange homes, they are peculiar. They are way south of Dublin but only a 10 minute walk from the DART train. It is about 40 minutes in to Dublin center where all the "stuff"--not the most convenient but exchanges are never where the hotels are. No locals live there unless they are very wealthy--and then they don't have to exchange to travel.
AlteCocker has one small flat screen TV in her bedroom. The home exchange home has more TVs than people. The living room has been turned into a sort of shrine to a gigantic TV with a number of those subscription services. AlteCocker has none of those and only has PBS Passport. She probably will be too busy to explore all the options.
Having arrived at 5:30am with little sleep, AlteCocker spends the 1st catching up on sleep, unpacking and setting up the new home exchange as "home" on her old Garmin with European maps. It has avoids having to set up her phone with data roaming. Data roaming will be turned off for the entire trip. She only uses the phone when she has wifi. It is standard operating procedure when AlteCocker home exchanges. Also, she studies the brochures that have been provided to get ideas how she can maximize the location of her home for tourism. While she has done some research beforehand, there is always more to do once she arrives. There are some texts via WhatsApp back and forth to resolve some minor confusing things about the home. She meets one of the next door neighbors.
AlteCocker is seated in an seat near the toilets that does not recline. How that happened, well, she probably made a mistake when booking seats. You know all those damn options as they encourage you to pay more for your seat and heaven knows what else. Fortunate the plane is only half full. AlteCocker asks nicely and she is given a choice of a window or an aisle in economy plus. No problem at all.
Now, why, pray tell when Air Linguis flies nonstop from Dulles is AlteCoocker flying via that sprawling Charlotte Airport? AlteCocker is trying to use up her American frequent flyer miles before she drops dead. No sense saving them as she reaches the end of her exotic vacation career. When you use them, you don't always get the most convenient route. Free flight come with some downsides.
The flight ends, a wheelchair is available and AlteCocker is wheeled out of international arrivals where one of her home exchangers meets her and she then discovers it is a couple with two teenagers and not just a couple making the trip to her home. They will have to set up the guest bedrooms as the didn't. They drive AlteCocker to their home and then have a taxi taking them back to the airport. Warning: AlteCocker tried to get euros in the Dublin Airport. The ATM machine there is one that is a total rip off with an expensive commission. So she has only a handful of euros from her last trip--a problem that will have to be rectified on August 2nd. When you are way out in the remote suburbs, there is not an ATM on every street corner.
As is true with all exchange homes, they are peculiar. They are way south of Dublin but only a 10 minute walk from the DART train. It is about 40 minutes in to Dublin center where all the "stuff"--not the most convenient but exchanges are never where the hotels are. No locals live there unless they are very wealthy--and then they don't have to exchange to travel.
AlteCocker has one small flat screen TV in her bedroom. The home exchange home has more TVs than people. The living room has been turned into a sort of shrine to a gigantic TV with a number of those subscription services. AlteCocker has none of those and only has PBS Passport. She probably will be too busy to explore all the options.
Having arrived at 5:30am with little sleep, AlteCocker spends the 1st catching up on sleep, unpacking and setting up the new home exchange as "home" on her old Garmin with European maps. It has avoids having to set up her phone with data roaming. Data roaming will be turned off for the entire trip. She only uses the phone when she has wifi. It is standard operating procedure when AlteCocker home exchanges. Also, she studies the brochures that have been provided to get ideas how she can maximize the location of her home for tourism. While she has done some research beforehand, there is always more to do once she arrives. There are some texts via WhatsApp back and forth to resolve some minor confusing things about the home. She meets one of the next door neighbors.
August 2, 2022: AlteCocker Tackles Dublin for the First time
AlteCocker has an 11:00am reservation for the tour of Trinity College, the Book of Kells and the long hall at the Trinity College Library. Of course, she has to navigate the DART train and deal with the lack of cash crisis. Her exchangers have left her a DART card. From bitter experience, AlteCocker knows that you do not try to use American credit cards in any cash machines. This will include the machines at DART stations and, more importantly, gas stations. You need to be sure to get gas locally on Saturdays in a place where there is an attendant. The attendant will put your credit card through. European cards are debit cards and all have codes. This warning does not affect your ATM cards to withdraw cash. They all work, but, notify your bank before you go so you don't end up with your cards being rejected. That is not fun.
OK, AlteCocker, arrives at the Pearse Street station, jams down a flat white, and successfully navigates her way to the entrance to Trinity College. She is early for the tour and has to wait about 20 minutes. The tour guide is entertaining but, if you have limited time, I would just book the Library and Book of Kells. There is a lot to see in Dublin. However, if you want to see the Library and the Book of Kells. AlteCocker went in after the college tour. Tickets were already booked up for the entire day and there were a lot of disappointed people who had not prebooked. Don't you be one of them!
After the tour, AlteCocker resolved the the lack of euros crisis by visiting a bank ATM just outside the exit to Trinity College. She then decided to the do the hop on/hop off bus tour. There are a number of them--all pretty much doing the same thing in different colored buses. AlteCocker got on the green one because, well, it was there. It was fine. The buses stop for driver breaks when they end at the General Post Office on O'Connell. The Post Office was the headquarters of those favoring Irish independence from the UK. You can still see the bullet holes. AlteCocker took the opportunity of the gap in buses to visit the small museum adjacent to the General Post Office. It was fantastic and AlteCocker spent around an hour and a half there. Be sure to see the film. The Rising flattened central Dublin and is still, to this day, very controversial. Then AlteCocker got back on the green bus and exited at Pearse Street station. The attendant there showed her how to top off her public transport card. Then it was back to Shankill almost at the end of the of the line that goes south from Dublin.
OK, AlteCocker, arrives at the Pearse Street station, jams down a flat white, and successfully navigates her way to the entrance to Trinity College. She is early for the tour and has to wait about 20 minutes. The tour guide is entertaining but, if you have limited time, I would just book the Library and Book of Kells. There is a lot to see in Dublin. However, if you want to see the Library and the Book of Kells. AlteCocker went in after the college tour. Tickets were already booked up for the entire day and there were a lot of disappointed people who had not prebooked. Don't you be one of them!
After the tour, AlteCocker resolved the the lack of euros crisis by visiting a bank ATM just outside the exit to Trinity College. She then decided to the do the hop on/hop off bus tour. There are a number of them--all pretty much doing the same thing in different colored buses. AlteCocker got on the green one because, well, it was there. It was fine. The buses stop for driver breaks when they end at the General Post Office on O'Connell. The Post Office was the headquarters of those favoring Irish independence from the UK. You can still see the bullet holes. AlteCocker took the opportunity of the gap in buses to visit the small museum adjacent to the General Post Office. It was fantastic and AlteCocker spent around an hour and a half there. Be sure to see the film. The Rising flattened central Dublin and is still, to this day, very controversial. Then AlteCocker got back on the green bus and exited at Pearse Street station. The attendant there showed her how to top off her public transport card. Then it was back to Shankill almost at the end of the of the line that goes south from Dublin.
August 3, 2022: Dun Laoghaire to howth
AlteCocker tried to do something less strenuous than yesterday. She took the DART train to Dun Laoghaire (pronounced roughly as "Dun Lairry"), north of where she is staying in Shankill. From Dun Laoghaire you take a ferry to Howth to the east of Dublin city. The idea was to get to Howth and eat lunch in one of the many fish restaurants in the Howth and take the DART train back to Shankill. That was accomplished but the boat rocked a lot on the way out so difficult to take good photos. Lots of lighthouses but they have all been automated. No more lighthouse keepers. Those days are gone.
Arriving in Dun Laoghaire, AlteCocker made her way to the East Harbor arm consuming a flat white and almond croissant along the way. Lots of strollers on the very long harbor. Eventually, she found the location for the boat and boarded. The boat leaves for Howth at certain times. Do not miss it! You might not have another chance. The boat is not to be confused with luxury. Almost every one sits on top. Not the most comfortable seats. Unfortunately, it was impossible to take good photos due to the rocking of the boat and the overcast skies providing little contrast. You do get good views of hikers walking the cliffs of Howth and see Ireland's Eye, an island off Howth that has a Viking history. Lots of Ireland's history includes invaders from hither and yon and fighting among ancient tribes have Viking history here--not to mention the repeated efforts by Britain to control Ireland which created a lot of problems and problems which manifest themselves in the tensions between Catholics and Protestants (now seeming a bit antique as almost no one goes to church). The ruins you see on the coast often include "martello" towers that were erected as lookouts in case someone tried to invade. Ireland's Eye does have such a ruined tower which you can see from the boat.
Arriving in Howth, AlteCocker made her way down fish restaurant lane (not the name of the street). As you exit the boat, it is right in your face. Many of the places are takeout only. You go to the outside bar and order and sit at picnic tables. Some are for people buying fish to take home. The menus are all similar and it is a question of finding a restaurant with a table to spare. Eventually, AlteCocker settled on one for the inevitable fish & chips. No dessert as the portion was enormous and there was the matter of the almond croissant in the Dun Laoghaire harbor taking up space.
To get back, AlteCocker took the DART. She did not explore Howth further after lunch because it was raining. She had been told that her ferry ticket would entitle her to a 2 euro fare to return. Yeah. Right. No one in the station to to give AlteCocker the ticket and she just taps in with her card paying more. Grr! It took about an hour to return to Shankill. AlteCocker met an Irish woman on the train who has a condo in Naples, Florida, where she spends the winter! It's a small world.
Arriving back home after 4:00pm, it was time for a nap.
Arriving in Dun Laoghaire, AlteCocker made her way to the East Harbor arm consuming a flat white and almond croissant along the way. Lots of strollers on the very long harbor. Eventually, she found the location for the boat and boarded. The boat leaves for Howth at certain times. Do not miss it! You might not have another chance. The boat is not to be confused with luxury. Almost every one sits on top. Not the most comfortable seats. Unfortunately, it was impossible to take good photos due to the rocking of the boat and the overcast skies providing little contrast. You do get good views of hikers walking the cliffs of Howth and see Ireland's Eye, an island off Howth that has a Viking history. Lots of Ireland's history includes invaders from hither and yon and fighting among ancient tribes have Viking history here--not to mention the repeated efforts by Britain to control Ireland which created a lot of problems and problems which manifest themselves in the tensions between Catholics and Protestants (now seeming a bit antique as almost no one goes to church). The ruins you see on the coast often include "martello" towers that were erected as lookouts in case someone tried to invade. Ireland's Eye does have such a ruined tower which you can see from the boat.
Arriving in Howth, AlteCocker made her way down fish restaurant lane (not the name of the street). As you exit the boat, it is right in your face. Many of the places are takeout only. You go to the outside bar and order and sit at picnic tables. Some are for people buying fish to take home. The menus are all similar and it is a question of finding a restaurant with a table to spare. Eventually, AlteCocker settled on one for the inevitable fish & chips. No dessert as the portion was enormous and there was the matter of the almond croissant in the Dun Laoghaire harbor taking up space.
To get back, AlteCocker took the DART. She did not explore Howth further after lunch because it was raining. She had been told that her ferry ticket would entitle her to a 2 euro fare to return. Yeah. Right. No one in the station to to give AlteCocker the ticket and she just taps in with her card paying more. Grr! It took about an hour to return to Shankill. AlteCocker met an Irish woman on the train who has a condo in Naples, Florida, where she spends the winter! It's a small world.
Arriving back home after 4:00pm, it was time for a nap.
August 4, 2022: Bru Na Boinne/Battle of the Boyne
She AlteCocker is going to accentuate the positive. The negative comes at the end of the day. Stay tuned.
AlteCocker knew nothing of the prehistoric site, Bru Na Boinne (means "mansion or palace of the Boyne" in Irish Gaelic) before coming to Ireland. What it is is the largest prehistoric tomb complex in the world. There are two of these sites that have been excavated and are open to the public, but you need to make a reservation. So, AlteCocker should have made a reservation .Of course, since AlteCocker didn't know about these places, how could she have made a reservation? She has been inside a prehistoric tomb once (called a "tumulus" in Carnac in Brittany, France in 2019. She definitely want to see it, but what to do?
Taking Rick Steves advice, AlteCocker puts "Bru Na Boinne" into her trusty Garmin and begins a bit of a wild goose chase--at one point being directed into a housing development. She trues "Bru Na Boinne Visitors Centre" and finally, after some experiences with Ireland's one lane roads, and asking people working on infrastructure--everyone of whom begins his advice with "I am not from around here"--somehow after driving a lot of extra miles, she somehow stumbles on the Visitors Centre for the tours. As she enters, lots of signs saying they are sold out for the day. Not good. It is just after 9:00am--AlteCocker having taken Rick Steves' advice to get there early just in case.
Never fear, AlteCocker is going to try her "Don't you have just one ticket?" known to work on even sold out shows on Broadway (except for "Hamilton", but there the story ended with a house seat). It works. She is at first offered an immediate reservation to Knowth, but she really wants to go to Newgrange, where you actually enter the tomb as well. Well, would she be interested in a tour at 2:30pm? They don't have to ask twice.
It does mean looking for alternatives to kill time. After whiling away the time in the Visitor's Centre looking at the excellent exhibits, AlteCocker has a coffee and pastry, takes advantage of clean toilets, and, with accurate directions provided by the facility, heads for the site of the Battle of the Boyne. This is the 1690 battle that King William III of England (remember William & Mary?) defeated his father, Kings James II (the Catholic & Bonnie Prince Charlie's dad) cementing England Protestant Rule over Ireland and suppression of Catholic righta for generations. The Battle of the Boyne wrealas the largest battle that ever happened in Ireland and is recalled in the North with those Orangemen marches (William III was from the Dutch House of Orange) every July 12th on the anniversary of the of the Battle and screwing up Ireland's politics ever after.
The Battle site is not marked at all. The only site is an old small manor house erected years afterward that contains exhibits. Unfortunately, the piece de resistance, a large diorama with laser special effects was broken, so AlteCocker cannot give you a review of that. There is a film that was not bad but was a bit dated. After the film, AlteCocker repairs to what is called the tea room and immediately recognizes that the food is somewhat familiar. Same catering service as the Bru Na Boinne Visitors' Centre in less pleasant surroundings inside. Outside there is a lovely small garden with lavender in bloom, but AlteCocker, wary of getting lost again, heads back to the Visitors' Centre for Bru Na Boinne where she has a fish cake for lunch and waits.
Finally, it is time for the tour which was well worth waiting for and all the trouble. The tour went first to Knowth where there are many tumuli together. Many of the tour goers took the offered opportunity to climb the stairs to the top of the largest tumulus to enjoy the vies. AlteCocker took a pass on that activity and was told it was very windy on top and she really had missed very little. We then went on to Newgrange where we were briefly allowed inside the tomb and given a demonstration of how the tomb was illuminated on the winter solstice. You cannot take photos inside the tomb ar Newgrange and really very little time for photos at all.
Returning to her home base in Shankill, was a lot smoother than going to the tombs in the morning. Remember AlteCocker promised the negative? After doing no damage to the car the entire day, AlteCocker scrapes the front bumper of the car getting into the very narrow driveway in front of the house. Repair has already been organized. True to form, no trip goes entirely smoothly for AlteCocker.
August 5, 2022: Museum of Archeology, Dinner Show
AlteCocker sleeps late and does not leave for Dublin until noon, taking in the trash can left for pick up before she leaves. Alighting from the DART at Pearse St. Station, she first has a coffee at a coffee shop named "Bear Market." Funny name, good coffee and a delicious pear croissant thing hit the spot. She then ambles until she finally gets to her goal: The Museum of Archeology. It is under construction and AlteCocker misses the entrance and needs to backtrack. Not fun. However, the Museum has a spectacular collection. Full of prehistoric objects, Celtic jewelry from hordes, intricate Celtic religious objects and the this very long boat that was carved out of wood with wood axes. AlteCocker has never seen so many of these objects in one place--even in the British Museum. Just a fabulous collection. She is so engrossed with what she is seeing that she fails to take photos. Sorry. AlteCocker skips the gift shop. She can't buy much when everything is hand luggage. So no gift shops for AlteCocker!
AlteCocker begins to amble towards, The Ha'Penny Bridge Inn on Wellington Quay, the restaurant where her Musical Pub Crawl Dinner Show is slated to begin. This company also runs a more traditional pub crawl without the dinner that starts and ends much later than the one with dinner. It is perfect for AlteCockers, but younger people might prefer the late n ight experience. The m]two musicians start the experience introducing some of the instruments and getting people in singing choruses and ordering drinks at the bar. After that ends, we all walk over to Flannagan's on O'Connell Street where dinner and more music, including a traditional Irish dancer awaits. AlteCocker had the salmon main course, which was delicious but it definitely did not need the pile of sauce. The portion is enormous and AlteCocker has about 2 bites of apple pie for desert and realizes she cannot eat anymore. The whole business lasts about 2 1/2 hours and was enjoyable if touristy. She does buy a souvenir CD. That will be easy to pack.
AlteCocker makes her way to the nearest taxi rank (you don't just wave your hand to get a taxi in Europe; there are often organized taxi queues where you take the taxi at the head of the queue). Arriving at Pearse Street station, AlteCocker boards the DART, and is soon home. She then empties the laundry hamper into the washer. She will dry the clothes in the morning.
AlteCocker begins to amble towards, The Ha'Penny Bridge Inn on Wellington Quay, the restaurant where her Musical Pub Crawl Dinner Show is slated to begin. This company also runs a more traditional pub crawl without the dinner that starts and ends much later than the one with dinner. It is perfect for AlteCockers, but younger people might prefer the late n ight experience. The m]two musicians start the experience introducing some of the instruments and getting people in singing choruses and ordering drinks at the bar. After that ends, we all walk over to Flannagan's on O'Connell Street where dinner and more music, including a traditional Irish dancer awaits. AlteCocker had the salmon main course, which was delicious but it definitely did not need the pile of sauce. The portion is enormous and AlteCocker has about 2 bites of apple pie for desert and realizes she cannot eat anymore. The whole business lasts about 2 1/2 hours and was enjoyable if touristy. She does buy a souvenir CD. That will be easy to pack.
AlteCocker makes her way to the nearest taxi rank (you don't just wave your hand to get a taxi in Europe; there are often organized taxi queues where you take the taxi at the head of the queue). Arriving at Pearse Street station, AlteCocker boards the DART, and is soon home. She then empties the laundry hamper into the washer. She will dry the clothes in the morning.
August 6, 2022: Matinee at the Abbey Theatre, Emigration Museum
After finishing laundry, AlteCocker took the DART into Dublin to attend the play "Translations," at The Abbey Theatre. AlteCocker was so exhausted that she fell asleep on the DART and nearly missed her stop (Tara Station). A group of friendly Irish ladies were headed for the play and AlteCocker simply followed them. The play was about the British forcing English upon the Irish. The list of British sins here is numerous. When one country tries for hundreds of years to control another, well, that is why the hatreds run deep among those who feel aggrieved. AlteCocker noted that everyone here seems to know the religion of everyone--unlike in the US where we mostly do not discuss that. It's the legacy that created all the infighting. While the play was excellent, unfortunately AlteCocker missed part of the first act. She fell asleep again. Alas, the queue for coffee was too long at the intermission, but AlteCocker took a walk around the theater outside and had no further problems with sleep in the second act.
After the play, AlteCocker went to the Emigration Museum which was nearby along the Liffey River past the Custom House. The Emigration Museum a modern museum with lots of audiovisuals in the exhibit. You are given a "passport" and are asked to stamp in the various exhibit rooms. After awhile, AlteCocker stopped doing it as there appeared to be no point to it. Kids, however, seemed to love it. The museum is an overview of all the tragedies of Irish history--not just the famine. There is an Irish Genealogy Centre attached to it where you can research your Irish ancestors if you have them. As AlteCocker's ancestors all hail from Eastern Europe, there was no reason to go there. If you go, do your research ahead of time as much as you can. AlteCocker saw the exhibits very rapidly mindful of the fact that she did not have a lot of time before the museum would close. She could have spent longer there but it wasn't possible.
After the museum, AlteCocker ambled along the quay towards the DART noticing the famine statues and a recreation of a so-called "coffin" ship that took many Irish to North America when the potato harvest failed in the 1940's (not visited). Before boarding the DART AlteCocker did seek out a coffee shop to avoid missing her stop on the way home.
After the play, AlteCocker went to the Emigration Museum which was nearby along the Liffey River past the Custom House. The Emigration Museum a modern museum with lots of audiovisuals in the exhibit. You are given a "passport" and are asked to stamp in the various exhibit rooms. After awhile, AlteCocker stopped doing it as there appeared to be no point to it. Kids, however, seemed to love it. The museum is an overview of all the tragedies of Irish history--not just the famine. There is an Irish Genealogy Centre attached to it where you can research your Irish ancestors if you have them. As AlteCocker's ancestors all hail from Eastern Europe, there was no reason to go there. If you go, do your research ahead of time as much as you can. AlteCocker saw the exhibits very rapidly mindful of the fact that she did not have a lot of time before the museum would close. She could have spent longer there but it wasn't possible.
After the museum, AlteCocker ambled along the quay towards the DART noticing the famine statues and a recreation of a so-called "coffin" ship that took many Irish to North America when the potato harvest failed in the 1940's (not visited). Before boarding the DART AlteCocker did seek out a coffee shop to avoid missing her stop on the way home.
August 7, 2022: Dun Laoghaire Again, Coast Walk
This was not one of AlteCocker's ambitious days. After sleeping in, she inquires about the state of the annoying bumper repair and then heads for the DART station. She heads for Dun Laoghaire again, but gets off at the stop before Dun Laoghaire labelled Sandycove/Glasthule (note: this is on the DART going north towards Dublin). Lunch is at the Fish Shack Cafe. Service is slow but friendly. Because it's a beautiful day. it's a bit of a madhouse (no reservations) and the wrong order shows up briefly. Most of the fish dishes are fried. AlteCocker, however, chooses the shrimp sautéed in butter and garlic. It's delicious and comes with toasted sourdough bread sticks which soak up some of the sauce. Basic beach fish joint with reasonable prices.
The DART train runs along the Irish Sea coast and it's a beautiful day. AlteCocker slowly hikes out to a martello tower in which is housed a James Joyce Museum run by volunteers. She passes a small sandy beach where the young and energetic are enjoying a small sandy beach on a beautiful day. The brave are frolicking in what must be icy cold water.
The James Joyce Museum turns out to be a disappointment. It includes a climb on narrow steep stairs to the top. Being concerned about getting down on those stairs. AlteCocker confines herself to the lower rooms. The room above is where James Joyce is thought to have written the first words of "Ulysses." She takes a free bookmark and later looks at the room virtually online. Then she hikes back along the coast. At AlteCocker's speed, it is a very slow walk. Seeing the Fish Shack Cafe, she hangs a left and heads for the DART station picking up an ice cream at the news agent's to the right of the DART station.
After arriving back at the exchange house in Shankill, AlteCocker sees that the bumper has been sanded. The guy will finish it off after work tomorrow and that headache will be resolved. The price is very reasonable. AlteCocker will once again be on the search for an ATM to pick up cash for the guy repairing it. She has discovered that the best ones are in the big banks in Dublin and she is planning a driving side trip for tomorrow.
She enters the house and quickly falls asleep. The car guy wakes her up returning the keys after sanding the bumper. Painting tomorrow evening. Yeah, the bumper has been a pain but, in the big picture it is just another vacation inconvenience.
The DART train runs along the Irish Sea coast and it's a beautiful day. AlteCocker slowly hikes out to a martello tower in which is housed a James Joyce Museum run by volunteers. She passes a small sandy beach where the young and energetic are enjoying a small sandy beach on a beautiful day. The brave are frolicking in what must be icy cold water.
The James Joyce Museum turns out to be a disappointment. It includes a climb on narrow steep stairs to the top. Being concerned about getting down on those stairs. AlteCocker confines herself to the lower rooms. The room above is where James Joyce is thought to have written the first words of "Ulysses." She takes a free bookmark and later looks at the room virtually online. Then she hikes back along the coast. At AlteCocker's speed, it is a very slow walk. Seeing the Fish Shack Cafe, she hangs a left and heads for the DART station picking up an ice cream at the news agent's to the right of the DART station.
After arriving back at the exchange house in Shankill, AlteCocker sees that the bumper has been sanded. The guy will finish it off after work tomorrow and that headache will be resolved. The price is very reasonable. AlteCocker will once again be on the search for an ATM to pick up cash for the guy repairing it. She has discovered that the best ones are in the big banks in Dublin and she is planning a driving side trip for tomorrow.
She enters the house and quickly falls asleep. The car guy wakes her up returning the keys after sanding the bumper. Painting tomorrow evening. Yeah, the bumper has been a pain but, in the big picture it is just another vacation inconvenience.
August 8, 2022: Glendalough and Johnnie Fox's Pub
AlteCocker gets a late start and drives over to a site known as Glendalough about 40 minutes or so from the house at Shankill. What it is is some monastic ruins combined with a hike you can take to one or two lakes. AlteCocker makes it to the lower lake and does a loop around it. She is too bushed to make it to the second upper late. The ruins of the monastery are the first thing you see before you arrive at either lake. There is a parking lot at the Visitor's Centre as you enter. AlteCocker gets the last space--one that is "creative" European parking under a tree that is not really a parking space, but the parking guys say to park there, so AlteCocker does.
AlteCocker starts her visit at the Visitor's Centre. It is a shame that most visitor's skip it as there is a nice 15 minute film and some exhibits. After Newgrange, Knowth and the Archeology Museum, some of the information is repetitive. The ruins here are small compared to some of those AlteCocker has seen in the UK left from Henry VIII's dissolution of the monasteries when he kicked out the Catholic Church to marry Anne Boleyn. The natural site, hidden in a valley is quite beautiful with a secluded site to protect the monks from invaders. There is a huge tower from which the monks could survey the scene for people the did not want to see. There are lots of hikers simply making a circuit of the two lakes who are not much interested in the ruins. Interestingly locals are still buried among the monastic ruins.
After about 3 hours at Glendalough, AlteCocker keeps her eyes peeled for an ATM but is unsuccessful. Her antique Garmin is not much help for that. She needs to pay the guy repairing the bumper. At least the bumper is still not fully repaired. Mazda wants to give the 2004 a coat of red paint. The car is grey. So it isn't quite done.
After several recommendations that AlteCocker should go to Johnnie Fox's Pub, she heads there for dinner. It bills itself as "the highest pub in Ireland." No idea if that is true, but the drive does involve a lot of climbing in the car and driving in low gear. While eating, AlteCocker was told by some eating at an adjacent table who came in after she did, that they observed someone landing at the pub in a helicopter! Ho did AlteCocker miss that? This is much better than anything she has seen in Dublin. The food is delicious and the portions are huge. AlteCocker orders mussels in a cream sauce for dinner. The menu lists it as an appetizer. No need to order a main after that. She has whiskey cake for dessert. While eating a guitarist plays sad Irish ballads. AlteCocker is then asked if she would like to see a show in an adjacent room. Of course she would. Lots of Irish dancing with both balletic steps and tapping. Some diners get called up to dance with the participants--not AlteCocker, thank goodness. Fabulous evening. Only downside is that Johnnie Fox's attracts bus groups. AlteCocker would not go on weekends without a reservation. The drive back home is dark and slow.
AlteCocker starts her visit at the Visitor's Centre. It is a shame that most visitor's skip it as there is a nice 15 minute film and some exhibits. After Newgrange, Knowth and the Archeology Museum, some of the information is repetitive. The ruins here are small compared to some of those AlteCocker has seen in the UK left from Henry VIII's dissolution of the monasteries when he kicked out the Catholic Church to marry Anne Boleyn. The natural site, hidden in a valley is quite beautiful with a secluded site to protect the monks from invaders. There is a huge tower from which the monks could survey the scene for people the did not want to see. There are lots of hikers simply making a circuit of the two lakes who are not much interested in the ruins. Interestingly locals are still buried among the monastic ruins.
After about 3 hours at Glendalough, AlteCocker keeps her eyes peeled for an ATM but is unsuccessful. Her antique Garmin is not much help for that. She needs to pay the guy repairing the bumper. At least the bumper is still not fully repaired. Mazda wants to give the 2004 a coat of red paint. The car is grey. So it isn't quite done.
After several recommendations that AlteCocker should go to Johnnie Fox's Pub, she heads there for dinner. It bills itself as "the highest pub in Ireland." No idea if that is true, but the drive does involve a lot of climbing in the car and driving in low gear. While eating, AlteCocker was told by some eating at an adjacent table who came in after she did, that they observed someone landing at the pub in a helicopter! Ho did AlteCocker miss that? This is much better than anything she has seen in Dublin. The food is delicious and the portions are huge. AlteCocker orders mussels in a cream sauce for dinner. The menu lists it as an appetizer. No need to order a main after that. She has whiskey cake for dessert. While eating a guitarist plays sad Irish ballads. AlteCocker is then asked if she would like to see a show in an adjacent room. Of course she would. Lots of Irish dancing with both balletic steps and tapping. Some diners get called up to dance with the participants--not AlteCocker, thank goodness. Fabulous evening. Only downside is that Johnnie Fox's attracts bus groups. AlteCocker would not go on weekends without a reservation. The drive back home is dark and slow.
August 9, 2022: Boat Cruise Around Dalkey Island
And so it is back to Dun Laoghaire by DART. An ATM is swiftly located and AlteCocker obtains enough money to pay off the guy doing the bumper repair and to make cash not a problem for the remainder of the trip. Then she has an ice cream from a place called "Teddy's"--supposedly the best ice cream place in Ireland. Only 4 flavors and AlteCocker gets peppermint. At least it wasn't vanilla with one of those little cookie sticks favored by many in Ireland and the UK. It's OK and they had sugar cones for an extra fee. The woman scooping ice cream is from Ukraine and does not speak English that well. An obvious recent refugee.
AlteCocker then heads over to the boat cruise location on the East Pier. Same company that took her to Howth. They have a cruise at 3:30pm around Dalkey Island where we see some ruins but no seals or dolphins that they discuss in their promo literature. Still it's a nice relaxing cruise and we see some huge homes in Dalkey.
AlteCocker then has a lousy hamburger at a place called Rocket's that is opposite the Dun Laoghaire DART station. Service is terrible. They have an obvious post covid staffing problem. The table next to mine waits for its order and it is totally screwed up. The hamburger on my bun is miniscule. A disappointment, but that is the way it goes. At least the help has funny t-shirts that say "Lord of the Fries."
AlteCocker then heads over to the boat cruise location on the East Pier. Same company that took her to Howth. They have a cruise at 3:30pm around Dalkey Island where we see some ruins but no seals or dolphins that they discuss in their promo literature. Still it's a nice relaxing cruise and we see some huge homes in Dalkey.
AlteCocker then has a lousy hamburger at a place called Rocket's that is opposite the Dun Laoghaire DART station. Service is terrible. They have an obvious post covid staffing problem. The table next to mine waits for its order and it is totally screwed up. The hamburger on my bun is miniscule. A disappointment, but that is the way it goes. At least the help has funny t-shirts that say "Lord of the Fries."
August 10, 2022: PowersCourt House and Gardens
Powerscourt is relatively close to the house, but AlteCocker has difficulty finding it even with the assist of Garmin. Small narrow Irish roads are not where she wants to be driving. The house is largely a ruin due to a fire after it was renovated by one the Lords Powerscourt (Yes, that's a name!). She starts late and ends up with a late lunch of assorted salads and a scone in the café before heading out to tackle the gardens. Upon advice, she starts in the rose garden but most of the roses are finished for now. There are some other flowers but the time to visit surely would have been a couple of months ago. It is a long way to walk down and even longer (or it seems so) to walk back up. There is a Japanese Garden that AlteCocker visits only from above as it would be more up on down. The paths are gravel only and are sort of slippery in places and the Japanese Garden is further down on a steep incline and AlteCocker foregoes an attempt as the last thing she would want would be a turned ankle going down and more hauling up and down. There is no tea house in the Japanese Garden.The walk uphill is best done on on side paths to avoid the enormous rows of stairs and AlteCocker takes advantage of that route and a few rests along the way up. Of course, you go through the shop on the way out. AlteCocker walks straight out not looking to buy anything and is soon back in the car exiting. However, she takes a wrong turn and more small Irish roads.
AlteCocker enjoyed Powerscourt but, quite frankly it does not live up to its hype. She did not visit the waterfall which was at about a mile distant in a different place but nearby. It is ballyhooed as the highest waterfall in Ireland. Who knows?
Arriving back in Shankill, she deals with some laundry, takes a shower and then falls into an exhausted sleep. This is the point that arrives in every trip where you realize the trip is past halfway over. Sniff!
AlteCocker enjoyed Powerscourt but, quite frankly it does not live up to its hype. She did not visit the waterfall which was at about a mile distant in a different place but nearby. It is ballyhooed as the highest waterfall in Ireland. Who knows?
Arriving back in Shankill, she deals with some laundry, takes a shower and then falls into an exhausted sleep. This is the point that arrives in every trip where you realize the trip is past halfway over. Sniff!
August 11-12, 2022: Getting Lost & finally getting there
August 11th was largely a washout. AlteCocker set out to see Avondale House and Forest Park with the new Beyond the Trees Attraction but no. It is supposed to be no more than an hour from Shankill, but after 2 hours of searching--including some driving on Ireland's infamous one lane unpaved roads--AlteCocker gives up, goes home and, stopping at Avoca, strikes out there as well. Avoca is a clothing store that is famous for its hand woven items. It is not AlteCocker's day. Avoca has a power outage and is closed. She finally gets home and stops for coffee at Costa Coffee in Shankill and trips on the curb and skins her knee. Costa Coffee is a coffee chain AlteCocker discovered in Prague in 2019. It's much better than Starbucks. The one in Shankill also gives AlteCocker a large "plaster" to put over her bloody knee. A successful day not. The knee looks worse than the injury was. Nothing broken.
So AlteCocker has her coffee, tuna melt and a brownie and goes home. She tries to determine how the Garmin went so wrong with directions. She compares a couple of maps and notices that she ignored a sign for Avondale House on the M11, the highway might have trumped her Garmin.
So she tries again, but the Avondale sign is the only one. You get off, there is no sign for Avondale at the roundabout, so she she guesses where to go. She guesses because she now sort of knows where Avondale is, but is not 100% sure. She ends up sort of redoing the mess from August 11th on August 12th, but without one colossal wrong turn. When she gets to a road named "Parnell" she smells victory, and finally gets to Avondale. The property includes a manor house which once belonged to Charles Stewart Parnell (very influential in advocating for Ireland's independence from the UK. He has a very complicated history. Alas the house is closed until the fall when it will reopen after renovation.
But AlteCocker knew about the house closure but is the home of Ireland's newest attraction--a spiral walkway that takes you high up into the trees for great views, but you gotta walk it. No elevator. made to allow wheelchairs. It takes AlteCocker a long while and much sitting on what are called "granny benches" but she does make it to the takes some photos. It was worth it as AlteCocker has never seen an attraction like Beyond the Trees. It has been only open since June 2022. The kids seem to enjoy taking the slide down. It should be a great success if Ireland can just put up some damn signs. Going home, there are not enough signs either, but AlteCocker has finally seen this after two tries. Triumph!
AlteCocker's arrival home ends in confusion when she can't find the house key. A neighbor has an extra, but she is mystified because she knows where she put the house keys in the car. She takes apart her entire travel purse. No luck. Finally, she returns to the car and discovers that the keys are where she thought she left them. Whew! What happened was that there were two storage places on top of one another. She had been looking in the top one. The keys were in the one underneath. AlteCocker has not lost her mind.
So AlteCocker has her coffee, tuna melt and a brownie and goes home. She tries to determine how the Garmin went so wrong with directions. She compares a couple of maps and notices that she ignored a sign for Avondale House on the M11, the highway might have trumped her Garmin.
So she tries again, but the Avondale sign is the only one. You get off, there is no sign for Avondale at the roundabout, so she she guesses where to go. She guesses because she now sort of knows where Avondale is, but is not 100% sure. She ends up sort of redoing the mess from August 11th on August 12th, but without one colossal wrong turn. When she gets to a road named "Parnell" she smells victory, and finally gets to Avondale. The property includes a manor house which once belonged to Charles Stewart Parnell (very influential in advocating for Ireland's independence from the UK. He has a very complicated history. Alas the house is closed until the fall when it will reopen after renovation.
But AlteCocker knew about the house closure but is the home of Ireland's newest attraction--a spiral walkway that takes you high up into the trees for great views, but you gotta walk it. No elevator. made to allow wheelchairs. It takes AlteCocker a long while and much sitting on what are called "granny benches" but she does make it to the takes some photos. It was worth it as AlteCocker has never seen an attraction like Beyond the Trees. It has been only open since June 2022. The kids seem to enjoy taking the slide down. It should be a great success if Ireland can just put up some damn signs. Going home, there are not enough signs either, but AlteCocker has finally seen this after two tries. Triumph!
AlteCocker's arrival home ends in confusion when she can't find the house key. A neighbor has an extra, but she is mystified because she knows where she put the house keys in the car. She takes apart her entire travel purse. No luck. Finally, she returns to the car and discovers that the keys are where she thought she left them. Whew! What happened was that there were two storage places on top of one another. She had been looking in the top one. The keys were in the one underneath. AlteCocker has not lost her mind.
August 13, 2022: An Afternoon in Bray
In all these trips, AlteCocker runs out of steam. You start out going like gangbusters. Then you start sleeping in. That has happened to AlteCocker. Today she just plans to take the DART to the seaside town of Bray. Nothing great but, to be honest she prefers the seaside towns to downtown Dublin. So AlteCocker takes the DART one stop south to Bray and it is similar to Dun Laoghaire without the cruises. Lots of locals sitting on the beaches and dipping themselves in the waves. The beaches are rocks, not sand. A restaurant called The Martello. She has cajun chicken. While it is nicely spiced, it is dried out. After lunch she along the pier to Gino's a well known gelato stop. She orders hers in a cup and she promptly makes a mess of it all over herself. She ends up tossing it out. Portions of everything in Ireland are large. AlteCocker should not have ordered the gelato in the first place as her lunch was sufficient. She views others with gelato making a mess of themselves. Bray is the kind of place the locals go for a break. When returning to Shankill, a family is hauling their kids with two of those blow up floats that people buy for kids so that they can jump in waves. They don't want to deflate them as they intend to use them again and they are a pain in the ass to reinflate. AlteCocker is sure the other passengers are not thrilled with the floats. In a few minutes, she is back in Shankill and goes "home." Not a great day from the tourist perspective but not everyone has to be.
August 14, 2022: KillRuddery House and Gardens
Killruddery destination is chosen for being nearby in Bray. Unfortunately, it is Sunday and a destination wedding party from the US has booked the house so the house is closed to visitors. Bah! AlteCocker has struck out. However there is a lovely restaurant. AlteCocker has a pork sandwich and potatoes. She shouldn't have ordered the potatoes. Most notably, the sandwich is served on sourdough bread and is delicious, but the portions are enormous and there is no question about desserr. They sell huge loaves of the sourdough bread in the farm shop and AlteCocker later observes one woman without a bread knife just ripping it apart at one of the picnic tables.
Since the house tour is unavailable, AlteCocker wanders in the gardens for awhile and then it begins to thunder. AlteCocker then heads for home. The promised storm never appears. She stops for coffee at Costa Coffee before heading to her exchange home.
Since the house tour is unavailable, AlteCocker wanders in the gardens for awhile and then it begins to thunder. AlteCocker then heads for home. The promised storm never appears. She stops for coffee at Costa Coffee before heading to her exchange home.
August 15-17, 2022 Bad Weather/Bad Back/The End
On the 15th the rain moved n and AlteCocker's back had reached the breaking point, making another schlep into Dublin not an option. All I did for those days was to take a walk along the Shanganagh Cliffs near my exchange home. On the 16th AlteCocker had dinner at Brady's Shankill, a local pub. They stamped your ticket for parking, so no need to forage for a parking spot. Only a small amount of house clean up was necessary. AlteCocker thinks she had meat but, she waited too long to write it down. No photos of the food as AlteCocker's camera batteries went kaput in the middle of the meal; AlteCocker had more, but at the house. Brady's was OK enough for pub food but definitely not a destination gastro pub. They do have music some nights but not the night AlteCocker was there.
The 17th was just a run to the airport, carefully parking the car as instructed. Car parking was very full and it took awhile to find a spot. Flight to Charlotte, NC, left on time and, despite the 1 hour layover, she did make the next flight. She had ordered a wheelchair and, man oh man, the lady pushing it ran all the way. She got a huge tip from AlteCocker.
The home exchange in Dublin was history.
The 17th was just a run to the airport, carefully parking the car as instructed. Car parking was very full and it took awhile to find a spot. Flight to Charlotte, NC, left on time and, despite the 1 hour layover, she did make the next flight. She had ordered a wheelchair and, man oh man, the lady pushing it ran all the way. She got a huge tip from AlteCocker.
The home exchange in Dublin was history.