ALTE COCKER TRAVELS
  • Welcome to My Website
  • How To Do a Home Exchange
    • Doing the Logistics of a Back to Back Home Exchange Trip
    • Preparing for a Home Exchange >
      • Home Exchange Problems >
        • The Ticket Dance
        • Homeexchange.com: Too Much Hype, Poor Management
        • The Nasty Side of Home Exchanging
        • Why Home Exchangers Can Drive You Nuts
      • Going Crazy Before A Home Exchange--Tossing Stuff
      • Last Minute Departure on a Home Exchange
      • Shit Hits the Fan before Home Exchanges
    • Retirement the AlteCocker Way
    • Trip Drill for AlteCockers
    • When You Want to Home Exchange for a Long Time
    • Home Exchange vs. House Sitting
  • Australia-New Zealand 2018
    • Perth Australia June 15-July 27, 2018
    • Broome Australia Outback Tour
    • Darwin Australia August 2018
    • Great Barrier Reef Australia August 2018
    • Melbourne Australia August 2018
    • Wellington New Zealand September 2018
  • Asia
    • Taiwan October-November 2015
    • Southeast Asia 2015-2016 >
      • Chiang Mai Thailand January-February 2016
      • Surin Elephant Round Up, Surin, Thailand, November 2015
      • Bangkok February 2016
      • 12 Days in Malaysia January 2016 >
        • Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, January 2016
        • Borneo, Malaysia, January 2016
      • Singapore: December 12-17
  • AlteCocker in Southeast Asia November 2014-January 2015
    • Chiang Mai >
      • Loy Krathong in Chiang Mai
      • Farang Lantern Release Chiang Mai
      • Puppet Festival Chiang Mai
      • Day Trips Outside Chiang Mai >
        • Whitewater Rafting on the Mae Taeng with Siam River Adventures
        • Chiang Rai and Mekong Day Trip
        • Baan Chang Elephant Park
        • Lampang Elephant Conservation Center and FAE Elephant Hospital
        • Bhuphing Palace
        • Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens
        • Royal Park Rajapruek
      • Living the Expat Life in Chiang Mai
    • January 1-6, 2015: Chiang Mai, Thailand
    • AlteCocker in Bangkok, Thailand
    • Photos from Thailand November 2014-January 2015 >
      • Bangkok >
        • Jim Thompson House Bangkok
        • Grand Palace Bangkok
        • Kanchanaburi/Bridge on the River Kwai Day Trip
        • Flower Market Bangkok
        • The Lowdown on Mobile Passport
        • Evening Chao Praya Cruise Bangkok
        • Other Bangkok Sightseeing
    • Kayak Trip to the Andaman Sea
    • AlteCocker in Siem Reap (Angkor Wat), Cambodia >
      • Photos from Cambodia December 2014 >
        • Angkor Wat
        • Ta Prohm
        • Banteay Srei
        • Beng Mealea
        • Floating Village Outside Siem Reap, Cambodia
        • Other Non Temple Sites Siem Riep, Cambodia
    • AlteCocker in Yangon, Burma >
      • How to Get a Myanmar (Burmese) Visa from Chiang Mai, Thailand
      • Photos from Myanmar (Burma) January 2015 >
        • Shewdagon Pagoda Yangon
        • Karaweik Evening Entertainment Yangon
    • Final Thoughts on Planning a Trip to Southeast Asia
    • AlteCocker in Phuket, Thailand (Kayak Trip)
  • You Are What? Going to Australia Again?
    • Fiji to Sleep? 3 days 2008 (with photos)
    • Sydney, Australia, 2008
    • Kawana Waters Queensland, Australia, 2008
    • Brisbane 2008
  • Europe
    • 2014 Grand European Haj: Poland, Belarus, Turkey, Sweden >
      • Part 1: Poland and Belarus >
        • Krakow Home Hospitality Returned 2014
        • Warsaw Home Exchange 2014
        • Belarus--Brest & Minsk--A Visit to the Ancestors 2014 >
          • Getting a Visa for Belarus
    • France >
      • Bordeaux France 2013 >
        • Photos from Bordeaux 2013 >
          • St. Emilion
          • La Bataille de Castillon
          • Sightseeing Bordeaux City
          • Touring Vineyards Outside Bordeaux
      • Martinique Home Exchange May-June 2015 >
        • May 25-27, 2015: Two Days in Dominica
      • Paris France >
        • How to Eat at the Pre Catalan in Paris
      • Paris for a Week July-August 2015 >
        • Paris 2015 Photos
        • Pere Lachaise Cemetery
      • Toulouse France 2013
      • Scandinavian Adventures >
        • Photos from Toulouse Home Exchange >
          • Cordes sur Ciel Medieval Festival
          • Albi
          • Grotte de Niaux
          • Carcassonne
          • Day Trip to Greenland July 31, 2016
          • D'Artagnan's Home Town: Auch >
            • Loire Valley France >
              • Amboise: Leonardo da Vinci & a Mass Beheading
              • Chenonceau: A Mistress, A Queen, A Transvestite Ball
              • No Baguettes Here: Eating Whole Grain Bread in Tours, France
          • Colomiers France Home Exchange July 2013
    • Germany >
      • Total Eclipse? Well, Not Exactly
      • A Day out from Hamburg: Wedel and the Blankenese
    • Great Britain >
      • Museum of London: Not for History Nuts Only
      • Leicester Square Ticket Booth London--Nah!
      • Westminster Abbey--Do Not Miss Evensong!
      • Bergen, Norway
      • From Bergen to Oslo by Boat and Train
      • The Palpable Presence of Death: Verdun
      • Fredrikstad, Norway, 2012
      • A Day out in Yorkshire: Rieveaulx Abbey
      • Edinburgh: Doin' The Fringe
      • Doin' The Tattoo in Edinburgh
    • Iceland and Italy Summer 2016 >
      • Iceland July 12,-August 2, 2016
      • Lake Como August 3-August 30, 2016 >
        • Verona Opera Festival August 8-10, 2016
        • Corsica
      • Venice August 30-September 2, 2016
      • Florence September 2-11, 2016
    • Spain >
      • Barcelona August 2015 >
        • Bella Italia >
          • The Shopping Tour to Italy: Oops!
          • When a Vacation Turns Into a Disaster
        • Photos from Barcelona August 2015 >
          • Sagrada Familia August 2015
          • Park Guell August 2015
          • Casa Batllo August 2015
          • Casa Pedrera (Casa Mila) August 2015
          • A Short Exchange in New Orleans
          • Girona and Dali Museum
      • Salamanca Spain 2013 >
        • Salamanca Sightseeing >
          • Salamanca Cathedral
          • Plaza Mayor Salamanca Spain
        • El Corazon de las arribes
        • Ciudad Rodriego and Siega Verde
        • Through Portugal to Santiago de Compostella
        • Pena de Francia
      • Madrid Spain 2013 >
        • Art Galleries Madrid
        • Ambling around Madrid
        • Madrid Bullfight Ventas
        • Escorial and Aranjuez
        • Segovia
      • Salou, Spain, Home Exchange August 2015 >
        • Cistercian Route, Catalonia, 2015
        • Photos from Salou, Spain, Home Exchange, August 2015 >
          • Tarragona, Spain 2015 >
            • Castels (Human Towers) in Tarragona
            • Sant Magi Heads
          • Valencia Day Trip
          • Montserrat Catalonia 2015
    • Part 3: A Second Home Exchange in Stockholm 2014 >
      • Sweden Photos 2014
      • Mariehamn, Åland Islands, Finland >
        • Photos Mariehamn, Aland Islands, 2014
  • Costa Rica November-December 2013
    • Costa Rica Begins. AlteCocker Makes New Friends
    • Capuchin Monkeys on Kayak Trip Quepos
    • Sloth Sanctuary Near Limon
    • Costa Rican Hummingbirds Savegre
    • A Vist to Famous Matt & Jen in Puerto Viejo
    • Tortuguero, Costa Rica
    • Costa Rican Flowers/Lankester Gardens (Cartago)
  • Turkey: The Best Home Exchange Ever!
    • Off the Coast of Istanbul in the Sea of Marmara: The Princes' Islands
    • To Eat in Istanbul Try "Istanbul Eats"
    • A Day at the Topkapi Palace with Photos
    • My Home Exchange Neighborhood in Istanbul, Cevezli
    • Cappadocia, Turkey, the Adventure Begins >
      • Alte Cocker in Cappadocia, July 2011 (Photo Gallery)
    • Why Edirne? >
      • Alte Cocker in Edirne, July 2011 (Photo Gallery)
    • Part 2: A Second Home Exchange in Istanbul 2014 >
      • Canakkale, Gallipoli and Troy
      • Three Days in Selcuk (Ephesus, Pamukkale) >
        • Istanbul Photos 2014
        • Photos from Selcuk Turkey 2014 >
          • Ephesus: Photos
          • Pamukkale and Hierapolis: Photos
          • Selcuk: Photos
      • Some Final Thoughts on Turkey
  • New Zealand North Island 2008
    • Auckland, New Zealand
    • Rotorura, Waitomo Caves, Lake Taupo, Tongariro Volcano
    • Cape Reinga
    • Bay of Islands
    • Kamo, NI, NZ Home Exchange
  • Miscellaneous Pearls of Wisdom from AlteCocker
    • So You Don't Speak the Language, Get Pimsleur!
    • Be Careful Whom You Travel With
    • Jewish Mormons? Only in America
    • Driving in Europe
  • Drumheller, Alberta: Land of the Dinosaurs
  • How to Get the Most out of Your European Trip Part 1
    • How to Get the Most out of Your European Trip, Part 2
    • A Modest Proposal to Solve Museum Overcrowding in Europe
    • Washington DC >
      • The 4th of July Fireworks in DC: NO!
      • How to Do the Smithsonian without Killing Yourself
      • How Not To Do a Tour of Washington DC >
        • A Short Exchange in New Orleans
    • How the Other Half Lives: The Hilton Waikaloa on the Big Island
    • Salzburg Marionette Theater: Not to Be Missed!
  • Theme Parks in Europe
  • United States
    • Sonora California March 17-April 2, 2017
    • Wolf Trap Farm Park: Theater under the Stars
    • Eclipse 2017
  • Kalispell, Montana, Home Exchange October-November 2017
    • Dog Sledding at Base Camp, Big Fork, MT

How to eat at the Pre Catalan in Paris

This is my all time story of something wonderful happening on vacation.  It happened in Paris and don't ever bad mouth Parisians or the French to me.  Here's why:

It happened in August 2001 in the last summer of innocence before the attacks on the Twin Towers and the Pentagon.

After 2 home exchanges back to back in Hamburg and Nancy, AlteCocker booked an apartment in Paris for a week so that she could meet up with DaughterCocker, then working in Germany.

The plan was to do one of those once in a lifetime things and go eat at a starred Michelin restaurant rather than AlteCocker's usual much cheaper Parisian bistro.  It was designed as a "thank you" for a family in Paris that had repeatedly put up DaughterCocker in Paris when she studied in France and worked in Germany. 

The Pre Catalan has 3 stars now, but when the Cockers went, it had just one.  AlteCocker cannot imagine how it improved since then because it was the best meal I had ever eaten as of 2001 and that assessment has not changed in the past 12 years. 

AlteCocker knew she was about to dump more cash for lunch than her airfare had cost (Ah, for the days of yesteryear, when AlteCocker did not have to pay well over $1,000 to get her ass over to Europe and back for the summer!).  At the last minute the guests could not come and called the restaurant to cancel.  Financially, AlteCocker heaved a sigh of relief, but, to tell the truth, she was a bit disappointed and wanted to meet DaughterCocker's Parisian hosts.

When asked by the maitre d' what we were going to do, AlteCocker shrugged and said, "We're here; we'll eat."  And, eat they did.

We went to the restaurant for lunch because dinner, which would have been way out of our income tax bracket, would have cost much more.  We were presented with very complicated menus in French.  Despite about 10 years of language study on and off, French menus in the fancy schmancy places are another problem.  Even if they are accurately translated (and sometimes the translations are hilarious), the food is different.  Some of it just doesn't exist in North America.  So, the Cockers took the easy way out and ordered 2 menus.  We were asked if we wanted the 5 course menu or the 7 course menu.  AlteCocker told them that 5 courses would be enough.

I can't recall all the things we ate but they were a mix of things vaguely familiar and things that were not--such as pigeon.  We ate for 2 hours a la francaise.

Soon a couple walked into an adjacent table.  It was a very elderly man and a much younger woman (OK, don't laugh yet, read the rest of the story).  We got in a conversation with them.  They clearly knew about ordering in such places as opposed to the amateur Cockers.  They did not order the menu.

The elderly man began to tell stories of being a General in the Resistance with Charles de Gaulle.  To tell the truth, and because she was fed a lot of outright lies about his wartime adventures by her father, AlteCocker believed none of it.  Since the man was so elderly, however, AlteCocker was polite and listened to the stories.  The entire conversation occurred in French.  It was mostly between AlteCocker and the elderly man.

Dessert came and it was the best dessert either of the Cockers had ever eaten.  The couple got something else--which was probably better but the Cockers were a couple of amateurs.  Totally sated, AlteCocker asked for the check.  There was none.  The elderly gentleman had paid the bill.  He then asked how we were going to go back to Paris.  I said we would either walk the 3 miles to the Metro or call a taxi.  He said he had a cab and would drop us off at the closest Metro stop.  And he did.

When he did, I took a photo of him and his companion with my daughter.  I also got his name.

After AlteCocker and DaughterCocker were alone, AlteCocker informed DaughterCocker that the taxi in which we had ridden back to the Metro had been waiting outside for the elderly gentleman and his friend throughout the meal.  DaughterCocker, who tends to absentmindedness, asked AlteCocker how she knew that.  AlteCocker replied, "The meter was at $85 when we got into the taxi."  In her next life, AlteCocker plans to live like that.

The following day, DaughterCocker went back to Germany and work and AlteCocker went to have dinner with friends.  When AlteCocker related the story of the lunch at the Pre Catalan, she was told, "No one would believe that story."  Of course, AlteCocker would not have believed it either if it hadn't happened to her.  She asked about the man, whose name was Pierre de Benouville and was told all the stories at the lunch were true.  He was a right wing politician who managed to have friends everywhere--from all sides.  In fact he was the only one outside the family of Francois Mitterand who was permitted to use the familiar "tu" form with him.  Yes, Mitterand was a socialist, but a French socialist--which has very little to do with socialism/communism in Eastern Europe.

Of course, in view of what M. de Benouville did for AlteCocker, a thank you was required.  When she arrived home AlteCocker repaired to the local gourmet store and purchased a selection of gourmet foods from Virginia to send to him and sent off a package having gotten his address from her friend in Paris; postage for the gift cost more, of course, than the gift itself.  AlteCocker wrote him a note to let him know that the package was coming.  He wrote back and told me--get this--that Americans were so generous and it was a tradition AlteCocker had "honored" by sending him the package.  That letter is framed and has a permanent place on the wall in my house.

When the package arrived AlteCocker got another note.  M. de Benouville said "It was as if Christmas had come early."  AlteCocker then realized that she had never sent him the photo AlteCocker had taken after the memorable lunch.  So she sent it off.

Several days later AlteCocker received a note from her French friend in Paris--the one who had tracked M. de Benouville down for her.  When she opened the envelope, a pile of newsprint fell out.  AlteCocker knew immediately what it meant; she didn't have to read the newsprint--and she cried.  M. de Benouville had died.  A couple of weeks afterward she received a note from the woman who had had lunch with M. de Benouville.  She was his secretary and helped to care for him as he had trouble doing simple tasks such as cutting his food at the Pre Catalan.

AlteCocker is tired of Americans bad mouthing French people.  The problems come from the fact that both sides come from different places culturally and talk past one another.  When French people let you into their hearts, however, they can be the nicest people in the world.  Anytime anyone badmouths the French, AlteCocker tells her story of lunch at the Pre Catalan.  Occasionally, here in Washington, DC, AlteCocker will buy a French person a drink at a bar if the occasion arises and do it in honor of the memory of what Pierre de Benouville did for her at the Pre Catalan just before everything changed.


For AlteCocker's visit to the Pre Catalan in 2015, when she paid the bill for herself and a girlfriend, see her blog from her August 2015 trip.
Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.