Five Exhausting Days in Krakow
June 12-14, 2014
June 13th was the usual race to the airport and wasted time sitting around and another wonderful (sarcasm reeking) international flight. AlteCocker was routed through JFK and had 3 planes with a long layover in JFK. You can take that airport and shove it. AlteCocker was in Terminal 8 and, while she does not know about other Teminals in JFK, there was no free wifi in Terminal 8--a terminal annoyance (pun intended).
AlteCocker flew American Eagle to JFK and then Air Berlin to, duh, Berlin, where she changed for the short flight to Krakow. It was the usual interminable European flight where you don't have much down time to just sleep. Nevertheless, AlteCocker did sleep briefly due to terminal exhaustion.
Finally in Krakow for a home hospitality exchange, AlteCocker took the bus to the railroad station from the airport. Looking at her luggage (a 25" bag plus a bag with her computer and toys), AlteCocker took a taxi to her home hospitality destination in Krakow. It was there she discovered that she would not be staying with her hostess Renata, but would have her own apartment for the dates of the hospitality--very nice except for the lack of internet (not a huge problem) and the fact that it was on the 5th floor without an elevator (AlteCocker climbed the stairs only once a day, so not a big problem; AlteCocker has climbed a lot of stairs on this trip). It was, however, very nice to have her own place and peace and quiet as AlteCocker was frequently exhausted. AlteCocker's tram stop was Nowosadecka on the 6, 24 (both to center city) and 50 (to the train station) lines.
Krakow is a very exhausting place, as there is lots to see and AlteCocker, as is true with many tourists, had insufficient time to do all the things she wanted to do and had to go flat out all the time--which, being an AlteCocker, she hates. It is, however, a wonderful small city and easy to get around with shoe leather. AlteCocker would not object to returning some time if someone offers her a longer home exchange.
June 13th, arrival day, was, as is usual on AlteCocker's European trips, consumed with just getting to where she needed to be, showering and crashing. Krakow was no different. The trip really began on the 14th when she awoke early and high tailed it into town on the tram to book a tour to Auschwitz I & II. That she did and her bout with exhaustion began.
Visiting Auschwitz involves a lot of walking no matter how you do it. AlteCocker booked a day tour to minimize it but there was still a lot. You can do Auschwitz by taking a train to the town of Osweicem from the train station in Krakow. There is a bus connection to Auschwitz I and then a shuttle bus between Auschwitz I & II. This would have added to the stress and walking and, being an AlteCocker, AlteCocker is not into stress and excess walking. Whatever you do in Krakow do not try and do both Auschwitz and the Salt Mine tour in the same day. AlteCocker did see tours that advertized both together. You would have to be in shape to climb Mount Everest or be totally insane. Moreover, such tours would not take you to Auschwitz II (also called Birkenau). You do not want to miss Auschwitz II. The tour at Auschwitz I is mandatory during the summer months. Auschwitz I was a relatively small camp. If you do just Auschwitz on a tour, you will go to II after I. So why is II so important? II is enormous. While most of the evidence was blown up by the Nazis (including the crematorium) in an effort to hide the evidence, you will get the idea of the scale by visiting II. You will miss a great deal if you don't.
You would think that would be enough for one day. AlteCocker has a miserably bad back (she had a series of back shots including a cortisone injection [one for the road?] just before she left). A sane person would not have done what she did, but she is glad she did it even it resulted in a lot of aches and pains.
First, she plopped herself down in a chair in Krakow's main square and had a glass of wine. She wanted to enter St. Mary's Church, but it was Saturday and the church was closed due to massive amounts of weddings. We even saw an older couple. No idea if they had just gotten married or renewing their vows, but we clapped for them. They didn't even notice.
AlteCocker ended up chatting with some people from New York. The mother has Polish origins and one of the children in the family group goes to Catholic University in DC, so we were sort of neighbors (at least the college student is). Then AlteCocker started to walk back to her tram when she was waylaid by Johanna waving a Krakow Free Tour sign. The free tour was of the Jewish Quarter called Kazimierz. While AlteCocker was told she would be walking for 3 hours, mind you, the Kazimierz is nowhere near central area of Krakow. AlteCocker probably walked at least 5 more miles, but she did see things in the Jewish Quarter she would not have found on her own and Johanna was a wonderful guide. There were only 3 people on the tour! The Jewish Quarter tour leaves every day at 4:30pm-5:00pm in front of St. Mary's Church. Some mountain climbing preparation before the tour would not be wasted. Nevertheless, AlteCocker survived and the tour is totally worthwhile. It is the sort of tour that is labelled as "free" but you are expected to give a tip at the end. There were only 3 on the tour: AlteCocker and 2 German women. We all tipped generously. Now, mind you, the Jewish Quarter is filled with atmospheric businesses, but there are almost no Jews in Poland. One synagogue predictably has been commandeered by the Chabad Lubovitch (the guys with the side curls who try and get non-observant Jews to become more observant--and who AlteCocker avoids). There are klezmer music concerts there every night at 6:00pm--except on Friday and Saturday. There are also other places featuring klezmer, but all of the people playing are not Jewish. It is a lament to a lost world. Playing klezmer will not bring it back.
After the tour (which included the only remaining remnant of the Jewish ghetto wall that the public can see and the outside of Oskar Shindler's Factory (now a museum; more later), any thought of doing anything else was abandoned by AlteCocker and she headed home to her apartment. Fortunately, nearby her apartment was a fantastic restaurant, Oberza Sasiadow, which had been pointed out to her by Renata. There she had her best meal in Krakow. While they did not have an English menu, they did have a totally fluent English speaking bartender and a waiter who had spent 4 years in Chicago (Polish joke: Largest Polish city is Warsaw. Second largest Polish city is Chicago). The bartender asked AlteCocker how she found the restaurant as they had never had an American there. AlteCocker told him she was staying 5 minutes from the restaurant.
After eating delicious fish, which AlteCocker thought was going to be salmon but was obviously something else, covered with forest mushrooms, AlteCocker overstuffed herself with apple tart for dessert. After that, she had the 5 minute walk to her apartment and another 5 minutes climbing the stairs, AlteCocker's first real day in Krakow was over and done with.
AlteCocker flew American Eagle to JFK and then Air Berlin to, duh, Berlin, where she changed for the short flight to Krakow. It was the usual interminable European flight where you don't have much down time to just sleep. Nevertheless, AlteCocker did sleep briefly due to terminal exhaustion.
Finally in Krakow for a home hospitality exchange, AlteCocker took the bus to the railroad station from the airport. Looking at her luggage (a 25" bag plus a bag with her computer and toys), AlteCocker took a taxi to her home hospitality destination in Krakow. It was there she discovered that she would not be staying with her hostess Renata, but would have her own apartment for the dates of the hospitality--very nice except for the lack of internet (not a huge problem) and the fact that it was on the 5th floor without an elevator (AlteCocker climbed the stairs only once a day, so not a big problem; AlteCocker has climbed a lot of stairs on this trip). It was, however, very nice to have her own place and peace and quiet as AlteCocker was frequently exhausted. AlteCocker's tram stop was Nowosadecka on the 6, 24 (both to center city) and 50 (to the train station) lines.
Krakow is a very exhausting place, as there is lots to see and AlteCocker, as is true with many tourists, had insufficient time to do all the things she wanted to do and had to go flat out all the time--which, being an AlteCocker, she hates. It is, however, a wonderful small city and easy to get around with shoe leather. AlteCocker would not object to returning some time if someone offers her a longer home exchange.
June 13th, arrival day, was, as is usual on AlteCocker's European trips, consumed with just getting to where she needed to be, showering and crashing. Krakow was no different. The trip really began on the 14th when she awoke early and high tailed it into town on the tram to book a tour to Auschwitz I & II. That she did and her bout with exhaustion began.
Visiting Auschwitz involves a lot of walking no matter how you do it. AlteCocker booked a day tour to minimize it but there was still a lot. You can do Auschwitz by taking a train to the town of Osweicem from the train station in Krakow. There is a bus connection to Auschwitz I and then a shuttle bus between Auschwitz I & II. This would have added to the stress and walking and, being an AlteCocker, AlteCocker is not into stress and excess walking. Whatever you do in Krakow do not try and do both Auschwitz and the Salt Mine tour in the same day. AlteCocker did see tours that advertized both together. You would have to be in shape to climb Mount Everest or be totally insane. Moreover, such tours would not take you to Auschwitz II (also called Birkenau). You do not want to miss Auschwitz II. The tour at Auschwitz I is mandatory during the summer months. Auschwitz I was a relatively small camp. If you do just Auschwitz on a tour, you will go to II after I. So why is II so important? II is enormous. While most of the evidence was blown up by the Nazis (including the crematorium) in an effort to hide the evidence, you will get the idea of the scale by visiting II. You will miss a great deal if you don't.
You would think that would be enough for one day. AlteCocker has a miserably bad back (she had a series of back shots including a cortisone injection [one for the road?] just before she left). A sane person would not have done what she did, but she is glad she did it even it resulted in a lot of aches and pains.
First, she plopped herself down in a chair in Krakow's main square and had a glass of wine. She wanted to enter St. Mary's Church, but it was Saturday and the church was closed due to massive amounts of weddings. We even saw an older couple. No idea if they had just gotten married or renewing their vows, but we clapped for them. They didn't even notice.
AlteCocker ended up chatting with some people from New York. The mother has Polish origins and one of the children in the family group goes to Catholic University in DC, so we were sort of neighbors (at least the college student is). Then AlteCocker started to walk back to her tram when she was waylaid by Johanna waving a Krakow Free Tour sign. The free tour was of the Jewish Quarter called Kazimierz. While AlteCocker was told she would be walking for 3 hours, mind you, the Kazimierz is nowhere near central area of Krakow. AlteCocker probably walked at least 5 more miles, but she did see things in the Jewish Quarter she would not have found on her own and Johanna was a wonderful guide. There were only 3 people on the tour! The Jewish Quarter tour leaves every day at 4:30pm-5:00pm in front of St. Mary's Church. Some mountain climbing preparation before the tour would not be wasted. Nevertheless, AlteCocker survived and the tour is totally worthwhile. It is the sort of tour that is labelled as "free" but you are expected to give a tip at the end. There were only 3 on the tour: AlteCocker and 2 German women. We all tipped generously. Now, mind you, the Jewish Quarter is filled with atmospheric businesses, but there are almost no Jews in Poland. One synagogue predictably has been commandeered by the Chabad Lubovitch (the guys with the side curls who try and get non-observant Jews to become more observant--and who AlteCocker avoids). There are klezmer music concerts there every night at 6:00pm--except on Friday and Saturday. There are also other places featuring klezmer, but all of the people playing are not Jewish. It is a lament to a lost world. Playing klezmer will not bring it back.
After the tour (which included the only remaining remnant of the Jewish ghetto wall that the public can see and the outside of Oskar Shindler's Factory (now a museum; more later), any thought of doing anything else was abandoned by AlteCocker and she headed home to her apartment. Fortunately, nearby her apartment was a fantastic restaurant, Oberza Sasiadow, which had been pointed out to her by Renata. There she had her best meal in Krakow. While they did not have an English menu, they did have a totally fluent English speaking bartender and a waiter who had spent 4 years in Chicago (Polish joke: Largest Polish city is Warsaw. Second largest Polish city is Chicago). The bartender asked AlteCocker how she found the restaurant as they had never had an American there. AlteCocker told him she was staying 5 minutes from the restaurant.
After eating delicious fish, which AlteCocker thought was going to be salmon but was obviously something else, covered with forest mushrooms, AlteCocker overstuffed herself with apple tart for dessert. After that, she had the 5 minute walk to her apartment and another 5 minutes climbing the stairs, AlteCocker's first real day in Krakow was over and done with.
June 15, 2013: The Wieliczka Salt Mine
Ah, the Wieliczka Salt Mine. Highly recommended by almost everyone, it's another mandatory stop in Krakow. It is, unfortunately, another Mount Everest experience. Many people take a tour to the mine--which will decrease walking. Since AlteCocker was only about 15 minutes away by bus 204 or 244, that is how she went. From downtown, you would take bus 304. Mind you, the bus does not leave you off adjacent to the entrance. The penalty for going the cheap way is, of course, more walking. A person on the bus who spoke English asked the bus driver to tell AlteCocker when we got to the mine. When we did, helped with directions. His English was even more limited than AlteCocker's Polish (honed through lesson 28 with Pimsleur's Polish I)
English tours are every half hour all day, so don't worry about old information that talks about infrequent tours. They are not infrequent. They are frequent. There is, of course, over priced food while you wait. AlteCocker had a totally forgetable muffin and coffee while she waited. Go to the toilet before starting the tour although there are toilets available in the mine. Going with a guide is obligatory.
To start the Mount Everest experience, you walk down 380 (Don't worry, there is an elevator at the end but a long walk to the elevator!). You will eventually walk down 820 stairs, but, after the first 380, it is not to bad as you don't do it all at once. You visit 3 levels in the mine. The chief thing people are there to see is all the salt sculptures made by miners who were amateur sculptors. They are quite impressive--as are the salt crystal chandeliers in the main chapel. Poland is a very Catholic country where mass attendance is much higher than in Western Europe. You will see lots of young people walking around in clerical garb--something that, except for priests, has been largely abandoned in North America and Europe. It reminded AlteCocker of her childhood in Connecticut where seeing a nun in a habit was an every day experience. She does remember, however, being in France with KidCockers in 1993 when KidCockers were very surprised to see people dressed "funny" and AlteCocker (who was not then an alte cocker) had to explain what a nun/monk was. The influence of Roman Catholicism is reflected in what you will see in the mine (lots of religious statues). Polish history is there as well. Reading up before going is a good idea.
The tour lasts about 2 hours after which there are other activities you can do or you can just leave (The choice of most people). AlteCocker did the multimedia show and then joined the queue to leave. having had enough. There is a museum containing some of the mining equipment. The queue to go there was very short as the guide told us that 2 kilometers of walking would be involved. Should you be "up" for that, better you than AlteCocker. As previously mentioned, it's a long walk to the elevator and you do need to go there with a guide. The guide does not always appear when you want and you might have to--ugh--wait to walk (no chairs). Then you get smushed into a mining style elevator. One Norwegian girl in my elevator got totally panicked by that. There is no other way up and she did make it but she was shaking the whole way up. You might want to think about this if you have a fear of enclosed spaces before going to the mine.
Going back to the bus stop, AlteCocker waited for her bus and the bus driver turned out to be none other than the bus driver who helped her when she rode the bus out to the mine. He gave her a big greeting and she took his photo.
For the afternoon AlteCocker rode the bus back and alighted one stop before hers. She then went over to Renata's to have birthday cake in honor of her daughter's 11th birthday. AlteCocker had packed an old Snoopy with a Christmas sweater that said "Macy's" for the daughter (It belonged to AlteCocker's adult son when he was a child and was part of the large stuffed animal collection that AlteCocker can never get rid of). She also packed a new t-shirt that was bought in downtown Washington, DC, that said "Future President" on it. Eva (Renata's daughter) immediately changed into the t-shirt. AlteCocker is not cheap but anything American has huge snob appeal in Europe--including an old Snoopy with a Macy's log on it.
English tours are every half hour all day, so don't worry about old information that talks about infrequent tours. They are not infrequent. They are frequent. There is, of course, over priced food while you wait. AlteCocker had a totally forgetable muffin and coffee while she waited. Go to the toilet before starting the tour although there are toilets available in the mine. Going with a guide is obligatory.
To start the Mount Everest experience, you walk down 380 (Don't worry, there is an elevator at the end but a long walk to the elevator!). You will eventually walk down 820 stairs, but, after the first 380, it is not to bad as you don't do it all at once. You visit 3 levels in the mine. The chief thing people are there to see is all the salt sculptures made by miners who were amateur sculptors. They are quite impressive--as are the salt crystal chandeliers in the main chapel. Poland is a very Catholic country where mass attendance is much higher than in Western Europe. You will see lots of young people walking around in clerical garb--something that, except for priests, has been largely abandoned in North America and Europe. It reminded AlteCocker of her childhood in Connecticut where seeing a nun in a habit was an every day experience. She does remember, however, being in France with KidCockers in 1993 when KidCockers were very surprised to see people dressed "funny" and AlteCocker (who was not then an alte cocker) had to explain what a nun/monk was. The influence of Roman Catholicism is reflected in what you will see in the mine (lots of religious statues). Polish history is there as well. Reading up before going is a good idea.
The tour lasts about 2 hours after which there are other activities you can do or you can just leave (The choice of most people). AlteCocker did the multimedia show and then joined the queue to leave. having had enough. There is a museum containing some of the mining equipment. The queue to go there was very short as the guide told us that 2 kilometers of walking would be involved. Should you be "up" for that, better you than AlteCocker. As previously mentioned, it's a long walk to the elevator and you do need to go there with a guide. The guide does not always appear when you want and you might have to--ugh--wait to walk (no chairs). Then you get smushed into a mining style elevator. One Norwegian girl in my elevator got totally panicked by that. There is no other way up and she did make it but she was shaking the whole way up. You might want to think about this if you have a fear of enclosed spaces before going to the mine.
Going back to the bus stop, AlteCocker waited for her bus and the bus driver turned out to be none other than the bus driver who helped her when she rode the bus out to the mine. He gave her a big greeting and she took his photo.
For the afternoon AlteCocker rode the bus back and alighted one stop before hers. She then went over to Renata's to have birthday cake in honor of her daughter's 11th birthday. AlteCocker had packed an old Snoopy with a Christmas sweater that said "Macy's" for the daughter (It belonged to AlteCocker's adult son when he was a child and was part of the large stuffed animal collection that AlteCocker can never get rid of). She also packed a new t-shirt that was bought in downtown Washington, DC, that said "Future President" on it. Eva (Renata's daughter) immediately changed into the t-shirt. AlteCocker is not cheap but anything American has huge snob appeal in Europe--including an old Snoopy with a Macy's log on it.
June 16, 2014: Oskar Schindler's Factory and Wawel Cathedral
Sometimes you find things you did not expect. Today was one of those days. On the tour of Jewish Krakow, we passed by the Oskar Schindler Factory featured in Steven Spielberg's film "Schindler's List". We also saw the place in the old ghetto area that was used in the scenes where the ghetto was liquidated. The Schindler Factory has been turned into a Museum of Krakow under the Nazi Occupation. This is one heck of a museum. It should be on everyone's list (pun intended). AlteCocker spent 2 1/2 hours there. You could even spend longer as there is a lot of interactive stuff (interviews with people who lived through the terrible time, etc.). It reminded AlteCocker a lot of The Holocaust Museum in Washington, DC, but it is focused on the experience in Krakow. Most of the Jews in Krakow did not survive. The first part of the museum has information on the Schindler Factory, but the museum is really much more than that. It is at the Bohaterow Ghetto tram stop. Follow the signs. The museum is free on Mondays--such a deal! Museums in Krakow have free days, but watch it. They give out only so many tickets. Once they are gone, that's it. On free days museums generally close early. Pay attention to museum hours. The Shindler Factory Museum just opened in 2010.
After the museum AlteCocker had lunch nearby at a restaurant called Jadlodajnia opposite the area of the Ghetto that contains a series of large chairs separated by gaps to indicate how alone the Jews were during World War II. AlteCocker ate fruit dumplings. They had strawberries in them. The restaurant is right the Bohaterow Ghetto tram stop and is self service. You order at the counter (something AlteCocker did not realize until she sat around for awhile. Strawberries seem to be all over in June in Krakow. Must be strawberry season. Anything with apples, however, appears to be the favorite dessert in Poland--preferably topped off with ice cream and whipped cream.
After lunch, AlteCocker decided to go to Wawel Castle. Dumb, da dumb, dumb dumb. Closed Monday afternoon. Found out after hiking up the damn hill. Not to worry, Wawel Cathedral was across the street. AlteCocker had no idea how impressive this church is. It is Poland's Westminster Abbey with many of its kings buried there. Never mind the Castle. AlteCocker went the following day. You want AlteCocker's opinion? Well you are reading this, no? You must want AlteCocker's opinion. If you have to make a choice, the church is more interesting. Whatever you see on Wawel Hill, it will help if you read up on the confusing Polish history first (AlteCocker did, as knowing something always makes a trip more interesting). Wawel Cathedral was Pope John Paul II's church when he was a cardinal. Pope John Paul II is very big here. The Pope helped when Poland was extricating itself from Communism. The Poles are eternally grateful to him with some mixed feeling from people who are nominally Catholic (94% of Poland is Catholic) but are becoming more secular. However, as noted previously, religious observance in Poland is much more the norm than in Western Europe. AlteCocker has no doubt that the first Polish pope had something to do with it. He is just huge. Only downside to the cathedral: mobs of schoolchildren. Fortunately, they just go in and out. They really do not stay to see everything. AlteCocker highly recommends the acoustiguide. She did not climb the 70 damn steps in the tower!
Dinner was at an entirely forgettable Georgian restaurant (as in old Soviet republic Georgia, not US Georgia). AlteCocker ordered what was recommended by the waiter (a sort of turnover with vegetables and chicken). AlteCocker should have ordered shaslik (shish kebab) but wanted to try something different. Sometimes different is not good, but you have to try. One of those meals.
After the museum AlteCocker had lunch nearby at a restaurant called Jadlodajnia opposite the area of the Ghetto that contains a series of large chairs separated by gaps to indicate how alone the Jews were during World War II. AlteCocker ate fruit dumplings. They had strawberries in them. The restaurant is right the Bohaterow Ghetto tram stop and is self service. You order at the counter (something AlteCocker did not realize until she sat around for awhile. Strawberries seem to be all over in June in Krakow. Must be strawberry season. Anything with apples, however, appears to be the favorite dessert in Poland--preferably topped off with ice cream and whipped cream.
After lunch, AlteCocker decided to go to Wawel Castle. Dumb, da dumb, dumb dumb. Closed Monday afternoon. Found out after hiking up the damn hill. Not to worry, Wawel Cathedral was across the street. AlteCocker had no idea how impressive this church is. It is Poland's Westminster Abbey with many of its kings buried there. Never mind the Castle. AlteCocker went the following day. You want AlteCocker's opinion? Well you are reading this, no? You must want AlteCocker's opinion. If you have to make a choice, the church is more interesting. Whatever you see on Wawel Hill, it will help if you read up on the confusing Polish history first (AlteCocker did, as knowing something always makes a trip more interesting). Wawel Cathedral was Pope John Paul II's church when he was a cardinal. Pope John Paul II is very big here. The Pope helped when Poland was extricating itself from Communism. The Poles are eternally grateful to him with some mixed feeling from people who are nominally Catholic (94% of Poland is Catholic) but are becoming more secular. However, as noted previously, religious observance in Poland is much more the norm than in Western Europe. AlteCocker has no doubt that the first Polish pope had something to do with it. He is just huge. Only downside to the cathedral: mobs of schoolchildren. Fortunately, they just go in and out. They really do not stay to see everything. AlteCocker highly recommends the acoustiguide. She did not climb the 70 damn steps in the tower!
Dinner was at an entirely forgettable Georgian restaurant (as in old Soviet republic Georgia, not US Georgia). AlteCocker ordered what was recommended by the waiter (a sort of turnover with vegetables and chicken). AlteCocker should have ordered shaslik (shish kebab) but wanted to try something different. Sometimes different is not good, but you have to try. One of those meals.
June 17, 2014: St. Mary's Church, Wawel Castle Finally
AlteCocker moved from her home hospitality apartment into the old city today. She has to say that she has not met nicer people than the Poles anywhere. There she was struggling to get her suitcases down from the 5th floor and a young Polish man picked them up and carried them down for her as if they weighed nothing. Then she started to walk to the tram. A man was getting in his car and AlteCocker thought she was going to get a lift to the tram stop. The man drove her to the old city and then helped her walk the bags to the hotel. Unbelieveable! AlteCocker does what she always does when someone was nice on a holiday: gives them a card with her email and invites them to stay 3 nights with her if they get to the US. No one has ever taken her up on it yet, but perhaps someone will.
AlteCocker then went to the main square and tried to get a ticket to the Krakow Underground Rynek Museum. It was a free day and there were no tickets. Suspicion is that groups grabbed all the tickets. AlteCocker was told to return later but she never went back because she found other things to do.
After the ticket bust up at the Rynek, AlteCocker had breakfast and then went over to St. Mary's Church that has a huge altarpiece that opens at 11:50am every day. The altarpiece is something to see, but AlteCocker was not impressed with the opening ceremony. She thought it was sort of silly. She got a seat right at the front, but when the seats ran out, a tour group came and stood right in front of her. That is apparently permitted. Were she to do the whole thing over again, she would recommend doing it after the daily opening ceremony when many fewer people are in the church. No fun with a mob.
After the ceremony, AlteCocker walked over to the Wawel Hill and climbed it again to do the castle. You have to choose what parts of the whole experience you want to do. If AlteCocker were to do it over, she would recommend choosing between the royal apartments and state apartments. Doing them both was a bit of overkill--not to mention back kill. AlteCocker did do the dragon cave at the end. The experience will take you down a lot of stairs and through a "cave". You come out by a statue of a dragon. Wait a minute and the dragon will spew fire. It is a tribute to a story about Krakow that involves a dragon. You don't need to know the details.
AlteCocker also saw Leonardo's portrait "The Lady with the Ermine"--Poland's only Leonardo.
Dinner did not happen as AlteCocker had noshed all day. She spent a few hours banging away at this blog because, after an internet drought, she needed to do the blog to keep you all happy. She did attend a tourist concert this evening 2 blocks from the hotel at the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul. It was the usual light chamber music that everyone knows. Similar concerts are held in churches all over Europe. It is a nice way to enjoy the interiors of churches while sitting down (and not doing religion).
After the concert it was more blog and then the usual struggle with luggage before a move. Since she hasn't bought much in the way of souvenirs (some small photos from Auschwitz that come in a package), her suitcase actually weighs less than when she came. Paperwork was pulled out for the train to Warsaw as well as directions to home exchange #57.
AlteCocker spent the night at Hotel Camea. It is a nice quiet small hotel at ul. Grodzka 31. Grodzka is the main street that goes from Wawel Castle to the main square in Krakow. It was a good choice for my one stay in a hotel WITH INTERNET.
AlteCocker then went to the main square and tried to get a ticket to the Krakow Underground Rynek Museum. It was a free day and there were no tickets. Suspicion is that groups grabbed all the tickets. AlteCocker was told to return later but she never went back because she found other things to do.
After the ticket bust up at the Rynek, AlteCocker had breakfast and then went over to St. Mary's Church that has a huge altarpiece that opens at 11:50am every day. The altarpiece is something to see, but AlteCocker was not impressed with the opening ceremony. She thought it was sort of silly. She got a seat right at the front, but when the seats ran out, a tour group came and stood right in front of her. That is apparently permitted. Were she to do the whole thing over again, she would recommend doing it after the daily opening ceremony when many fewer people are in the church. No fun with a mob.
After the ceremony, AlteCocker walked over to the Wawel Hill and climbed it again to do the castle. You have to choose what parts of the whole experience you want to do. If AlteCocker were to do it over, she would recommend choosing between the royal apartments and state apartments. Doing them both was a bit of overkill--not to mention back kill. AlteCocker did do the dragon cave at the end. The experience will take you down a lot of stairs and through a "cave". You come out by a statue of a dragon. Wait a minute and the dragon will spew fire. It is a tribute to a story about Krakow that involves a dragon. You don't need to know the details.
AlteCocker also saw Leonardo's portrait "The Lady with the Ermine"--Poland's only Leonardo.
Dinner did not happen as AlteCocker had noshed all day. She spent a few hours banging away at this blog because, after an internet drought, she needed to do the blog to keep you all happy. She did attend a tourist concert this evening 2 blocks from the hotel at the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul. It was the usual light chamber music that everyone knows. Similar concerts are held in churches all over Europe. It is a nice way to enjoy the interiors of churches while sitting down (and not doing religion).
After the concert it was more blog and then the usual struggle with luggage before a move. Since she hasn't bought much in the way of souvenirs (some small photos from Auschwitz that come in a package), her suitcase actually weighs less than when she came. Paperwork was pulled out for the train to Warsaw as well as directions to home exchange #57.
AlteCocker spent the night at Hotel Camea. It is a nice quiet small hotel at ul. Grodzka 31. Grodzka is the main street that goes from Wawel Castle to the main square in Krakow. It was a good choice for my one stay in a hotel WITH INTERNET.