Florence: September 2-10, 2016
September 2, 2016: Hello Florence
The previous blog on this trip on Venice can be found here.
And so AlteCocker schleps the suitcase with the broken handle (now extended) into the Chapel between tracks 2 & 5, the designated meeting place. AlteCocker has to wander around a bit before figuring out the chapel because the signs are iffy. Once she enters via the track 2 side (there appears to be no track 3 or 4), she has to walk in front of a few out loud prayers spoiling their altar sightline. She tries to be as quiet as possible but still not a very comfortable moment.
Then we catch a cab to the apartment (probably a good idea given our later problems with the buses). The apartment is right on the square in front of Santa Croce. It has an elevator to the 3d floor. We are, of course, on 4 and need to walk up a flight with the suitcase (handle extended). Then it is time for a shower for AlteCocker after all the stress of another transfer day. There will be only one more: to Rome and directly to the airport. The apartment was rented through Pitcher & Flaccomio and is very nice. Ask for the apartment by Santa Croce if interested.
AlteCocker dumps out her bag and gives Mary & Tom all the excess toiletries and medications that are remaining. Those things come in handy on a long trip and she does not need the weight in her suitcase. They are also gifted AlteCocker's two cheap hiking poles (please pass them to someone else if they can't use them) and Tom is given AlteCocker's 3d generation Kindle as he does not have a book reader. When he registers it, it retains all the books AlteCocker has placed on it so he gets a pile of free books as well. AlteCocker has a another Kindle with her that is a much later generation. She really does not need two.
Eventually we get our acts together and head out for I Ghibellini, a local restaurant/bar that has a sort of tapas happy hour for 8 euro. You get one drink and all the bar food you can drink. It is a decidedly good deal. Susan, the real estate agent who rented Mary & Tom the apartment, joins us. Her real estate company is Pitcher & Flaccomio. Based on the apartment, her agency is highly recommended by the 3 musketeers currently residing in it.
The evening finishes with gelato at Marco Ottoviano, the local gourmet gelato place. We all have different flavors. AlteCocker gets a strawberry sorbet with prosecco, but she has to look hard for the prosecco after the first taste. Good anyway.
Then it is time for AlteCocker to tackle her dirty laundry. The washer in the apartment is great as it spins every drop of water out of the clothes. In 1-2 hours everything is dry. Meantime, of course, AlteCocker is fast asleep. Hanging laundry waits for morning.
And so AlteCocker schleps the suitcase with the broken handle (now extended) into the Chapel between tracks 2 & 5, the designated meeting place. AlteCocker has to wander around a bit before figuring out the chapel because the signs are iffy. Once she enters via the track 2 side (there appears to be no track 3 or 4), she has to walk in front of a few out loud prayers spoiling their altar sightline. She tries to be as quiet as possible but still not a very comfortable moment.
Then we catch a cab to the apartment (probably a good idea given our later problems with the buses). The apartment is right on the square in front of Santa Croce. It has an elevator to the 3d floor. We are, of course, on 4 and need to walk up a flight with the suitcase (handle extended). Then it is time for a shower for AlteCocker after all the stress of another transfer day. There will be only one more: to Rome and directly to the airport. The apartment was rented through Pitcher & Flaccomio and is very nice. Ask for the apartment by Santa Croce if interested.
AlteCocker dumps out her bag and gives Mary & Tom all the excess toiletries and medications that are remaining. Those things come in handy on a long trip and she does not need the weight in her suitcase. They are also gifted AlteCocker's two cheap hiking poles (please pass them to someone else if they can't use them) and Tom is given AlteCocker's 3d generation Kindle as he does not have a book reader. When he registers it, it retains all the books AlteCocker has placed on it so he gets a pile of free books as well. AlteCocker has a another Kindle with her that is a much later generation. She really does not need two.
Eventually we get our acts together and head out for I Ghibellini, a local restaurant/bar that has a sort of tapas happy hour for 8 euro. You get one drink and all the bar food you can drink. It is a decidedly good deal. Susan, the real estate agent who rented Mary & Tom the apartment, joins us. Her real estate company is Pitcher & Flaccomio. Based on the apartment, her agency is highly recommended by the 3 musketeers currently residing in it.
The evening finishes with gelato at Marco Ottoviano, the local gourmet gelato place. We all have different flavors. AlteCocker gets a strawberry sorbet with prosecco, but she has to look hard for the prosecco after the first taste. Good anyway.
Then it is time for AlteCocker to tackle her dirty laundry. The washer in the apartment is great as it spins every drop of water out of the clothes. In 1-2 hours everything is dry. Meantime, of course, AlteCocker is fast asleep. Hanging laundry waits for morning.
september 3, 2016: Fiesole and Bus Misadventures
We go to the train station first so that AlteCocker can buy the ticket for her last train schlep on September 10—to Rome (and then directly to the airport by bus). That accomplished AlteCocker goes over to Tourist Information to find out where to get bus #7. We have to double back. Eventually we find the bus and begin our journey up to Fiesole.
It's noon when we arrive, so time for lunch. We hit Ristorante Aurora and it's a hit. AlteCocker has pistachio crusted tuna, Tom a pasta dish with a spicy sauce and Mary a risotto dish with mushrooms. Everyone is satisfied.
Then it is time to hike up the hill to the overlook. While only about 3 long blocks, the hike is very steep. We finally arrive, take photos and get back down. Then we wait for bus #7 to go back into Florence. When we get off the bus our troubles begin. Where the hell do we get on the bus to get to Santa Croce? The bus map might as well be tossed because no bus is stopping where it should. Mary & Tom go one way. AlteCocker goes another. There are a lot of varying opinions by Italians. Then AlteCocker sees Mary & Tom get on bus 23 but they are going the wrong way. AlteCocker attempts to board the bus but the bus has pulled away from the stop and the driver won't let her on.
Lest you think AlteCocker was a bus genius, think again. She gets on bus 23 going to Santa Croce but the bus does not stop where she can see Santa Croce and it was quite a bit afterward that AlteCocker realized she had missed her chance to get to the apartment without doing a lot of stress. She gets off the bus and walks back along the Arno until her street map shows her to cross and Santa Croce is nearby. When she gets to the apartment, of course, Mary & Tom are busy with their own bus misadventures and she cannot get in the apartment because they have the keys. Not a good idea to get separated from people who have keys to where you are staying.
While waiting for Mary & Tom to eventually show up, AlteCocker goes in search of cold water—and pours a bit of it on her head. Then some spills. It's a large bottle. Who cares? Finally, in a short time Mary & Tom show up. We swap bus stories. If you don't laugh, you would cry. Mary & Tom go up to the apartment, thoughtfully leaving AlteCocker with a key because she is going to buy some art. There are a number of artists on the piazza in front of Santa Croce. One, Xhovalin Delia, is clearly much better than the rest of the pack and AlteCocker negotiates for two pictures. Some Americans from Wisconsin are also thinking about buying a picture. No idea how that turned out.
After the pictures, AlteCocker stopped at a nearby leather place. The closest one to the apartment—just underneath. There is a purse there that has a lot of electronic attachments. AlteCocker is considering it but is not sure she can justify another purse. There are a lot in her closet at home.
Then it is up to the apartment for showers. Gelato is later.
It's noon when we arrive, so time for lunch. We hit Ristorante Aurora and it's a hit. AlteCocker has pistachio crusted tuna, Tom a pasta dish with a spicy sauce and Mary a risotto dish with mushrooms. Everyone is satisfied.
Then it is time to hike up the hill to the overlook. While only about 3 long blocks, the hike is very steep. We finally arrive, take photos and get back down. Then we wait for bus #7 to go back into Florence. When we get off the bus our troubles begin. Where the hell do we get on the bus to get to Santa Croce? The bus map might as well be tossed because no bus is stopping where it should. Mary & Tom go one way. AlteCocker goes another. There are a lot of varying opinions by Italians. Then AlteCocker sees Mary & Tom get on bus 23 but they are going the wrong way. AlteCocker attempts to board the bus but the bus has pulled away from the stop and the driver won't let her on.
Lest you think AlteCocker was a bus genius, think again. She gets on bus 23 going to Santa Croce but the bus does not stop where she can see Santa Croce and it was quite a bit afterward that AlteCocker realized she had missed her chance to get to the apartment without doing a lot of stress. She gets off the bus and walks back along the Arno until her street map shows her to cross and Santa Croce is nearby. When she gets to the apartment, of course, Mary & Tom are busy with their own bus misadventures and she cannot get in the apartment because they have the keys. Not a good idea to get separated from people who have keys to where you are staying.
While waiting for Mary & Tom to eventually show up, AlteCocker goes in search of cold water—and pours a bit of it on her head. Then some spills. It's a large bottle. Who cares? Finally, in a short time Mary & Tom show up. We swap bus stories. If you don't laugh, you would cry. Mary & Tom go up to the apartment, thoughtfully leaving AlteCocker with a key because she is going to buy some art. There are a number of artists on the piazza in front of Santa Croce. One, Xhovalin Delia, is clearly much better than the rest of the pack and AlteCocker negotiates for two pictures. Some Americans from Wisconsin are also thinking about buying a picture. No idea how that turned out.
After the pictures, AlteCocker stopped at a nearby leather place. The closest one to the apartment—just underneath. There is a purse there that has a lot of electronic attachments. AlteCocker is considering it but is not sure she can justify another purse. There are a lot in her closet at home.
Then it is up to the apartment for showers. Gelato is later.
September 4, 2016: Shopping & Galileo Museum
The morning begins with the purchase of a purse from the leather shop downstairs, A&D Leather Shop. It is constructed so it fits right in front of you with plenty of zippers and is perfect for when you go to the airport and need a place for your passport, different kinds of cash and credit cards. Then she checks out a jewelry shop. It is doing a demonstration for a gaggle of cruise ship geese. AlteCocker watches. Of course what she likes is way beyond what she can afford. A bargain at over 3,000 euros! She walks out with nothing. Another case of champagne taste on a beer budget. AlteCocker has that a lot. By the way, the gold jewelry place has an ATM in the back if you need emergency cash to buy a 3,000 euro necklace. AlteCocker forgoes interaction with that ATM.
AlteCocker has two museums on her list in Florence. Let me assure you they are not the Uffizi (location of Botticelli's "Venus on the Half Shell") and Accademia (location of "David"). She's seen them before and, as magnificent as they are no need to see them again in light of the huge queues and the production that arranging reservations involves. She made reservations for things she had not seen on this trip but not for places that would be repeats. There is only so much repetition of sights that she wants. So no Uffizi and Accademia this time.
Instead Tom and AlteCocker head for the Galileo Museum--which has a fabulous collection of Renaissance scientific instruments. Mary's feet are ailing and she decides to take a rest after exhaustion from yesterday's bus follies. While the museum is unique and interesting, AlteCocker would need to read some before returning to take full advantage of what she was seeing. She understands some of it but not all by a long shot. There was artistry in the manufacture of the instruments. No mass production in those days.
Then Tom asks to walk back via some bookshops. That is fine with AlteCocker but somehow we find our way back to the apartment and miss the book shops. On the return, AlteCocker looks at some battery operated toy smart cars.. They bump into some things and turn around. At first the price is 10 euros. Then it's 8 as AlteCocker goes away. Finally the offer is down to 5 euros and AlteCocker buys one. Perfect for the 6 year old boy next door to her house. It probably will last less than a week, but, at that price, who cares? He will have a few hours of fun. It even comes with a battery--albeit one that probavly won't last long.
By 4:00pm we are back at the apartment with our feet up and AlteCocker is tackling the blog.
AlteCocker has two museums on her list in Florence. Let me assure you they are not the Uffizi (location of Botticelli's "Venus on the Half Shell") and Accademia (location of "David"). She's seen them before and, as magnificent as they are no need to see them again in light of the huge queues and the production that arranging reservations involves. She made reservations for things she had not seen on this trip but not for places that would be repeats. There is only so much repetition of sights that she wants. So no Uffizi and Accademia this time.
Instead Tom and AlteCocker head for the Galileo Museum--which has a fabulous collection of Renaissance scientific instruments. Mary's feet are ailing and she decides to take a rest after exhaustion from yesterday's bus follies. While the museum is unique and interesting, AlteCocker would need to read some before returning to take full advantage of what she was seeing. She understands some of it but not all by a long shot. There was artistry in the manufacture of the instruments. No mass production in those days.
Then Tom asks to walk back via some bookshops. That is fine with AlteCocker but somehow we find our way back to the apartment and miss the book shops. On the return, AlteCocker looks at some battery operated toy smart cars.. They bump into some things and turn around. At first the price is 10 euros. Then it's 8 as AlteCocker goes away. Finally the offer is down to 5 euros and AlteCocker buys one. Perfect for the 6 year old boy next door to her house. It probably will last less than a week, but, at that price, who cares? He will have a few hours of fun. It even comes with a battery--albeit one that probavly won't last long.
By 4:00pm we are back at the apartment with our feet up and AlteCocker is tackling the blog.
September 5, 2016: Santa Croce and Incredible Florence Show
And so time is passing and AlteCocker is sleeping late. When she does that, she knows it is time to go home. Mary & Tom have already exited the premises before AlteCocker awakens. So she goes off by herself. Fortunately, keys have been kindly left for AlteCocker so no repeat of yesterday's follies. AlteCocker figures she had better enter Santa Croce, the church that is just to the left of the apartment. Santa Croce is definitely a not a "walk thru" church. AlteCocker spends over 2 hours in the church using a very informative audio guide that includes videos. She sits down (sitting down is always good on a trip anywhere) and views all the videos before going around the church viewing the tombs and monuments of various illustrious Italians. A tomb for Dante is there, but he is in Ravenna (big dispute between the cities; Florence lost). Niccolo Machivelli has a monument. He is probably in the church buried with many of his family, but not where the monument is. They don't know exactly.
After exhausting herself and all corners of the church, AlteCocker exits and it is time a time for a gelato. Then it is back to the apartment for a few minutes before she decides to head out for the Incredible Florence show. Now, mind you, the museums are all closed on MONDAY. You always need to know the closure days when you travel in Europe because almost nothing is open 7 days a week as is the norm with major museums in the US.
The show is on a continuous loop. Do not sit there, as AlteCocker did, waiting for the beginning. You will just waste time. Eventually, she goes in towards the end and watches the show. She even takes photos of the show.
Evening activity includes dinner at Susan's--the real estate agent whose company rented the apartment to Mary & Tom. They are friends from Chiang Mai, Thailand, where Susan winters. The food is delicious especially the pasta, shrimp and vegetable souffle--all great. AlteCocker has way too much to drink.
After exhausting herself and all corners of the church, AlteCocker exits and it is time a time for a gelato. Then it is back to the apartment for a few minutes before she decides to head out for the Incredible Florence show. Now, mind you, the museums are all closed on MONDAY. You always need to know the closure days when you travel in Europe because almost nothing is open 7 days a week as is the norm with major museums in the US.
The show is on a continuous loop. Do not sit there, as AlteCocker did, waiting for the beginning. You will just waste time. Eventually, she goes in towards the end and watches the show. She even takes photos of the show.
Evening activity includes dinner at Susan's--the real estate agent whose company rented the apartment to Mary & Tom. They are friends from Chiang Mai, Thailand, where Susan winters. The food is delicious especially the pasta, shrimp and vegetable souffle--all great. AlteCocker has way too much to drink.
September 6, 2016: A/C Problem and Bargello Museum
We haven't figured out how to use the air conditioning in the apartment. You only really need it midday if you decide to take a nap. At night it cools off so not necessary. Problem is that we don't know how to work it. So, we go over to the real estate people to print out some concert tickets and deal with getting someone to come over to show us how the damn system works. It turns out that all the individual units in the rooms (antiquated variety) are controlled by a master switch. Once you turn it on, you have to run the a/c for awhile before it begins cooling. Moreover, the compressor for the whole business is up on an old roof in an apartment block that is a medieval European jumble. It seems to work after the directions are explained.
After resolving the a/c problem we head out for lunch and the Bargello Museum. The Bargello focusses on sculpture and none of us have been there. It is very near the Uffizi for anyone consulting a map.
Lunch turns out to be at at Gusto Leo, chosen because (a) it was on the way and (b) it had air conditioning. Mary and AlteCocker get large lunch salads while Tom gets gnocchi with some sort of a blue cheese sauce. Then it is off to the Bargello Museum. Let AlteCocker assure you, this museum, which she has missed on previous visits to Florence is just as important for Renaissance sculpture as the Uffizi is for Renaissance painting. Best of all, the Bargello is undervisited. No queue, no mobs of people and tons of Michaelangelo and a whole room devoted to Donatello. Donatello's "David" is certainly the star of the show. Some consider it greater than Michaelangelo's version--which has its own "house" at the Accademia. AlteCocker has seen the Michaelangelo version before twice but never the Donatello. It was really a great museum going experience. Somehow Mary and Tom mange to exit the museum before AlteCocker does during the "sweep out" just before 5:00pm and she misses them. So, she walks back to the apartment (about 5 or 10 minutes away), where Mary and Tom are seated at the restaurant closest to the apartment and Tom asks AlteCocker if she wants a prosecco. AlteCocker accepts even if it ends up knocking her out. Then it is time to go to the apartment and put our feet up as the heavens open up and it begins raining. At least it will cool things off.
After resolving the a/c problem we head out for lunch and the Bargello Museum. The Bargello focusses on sculpture and none of us have been there. It is very near the Uffizi for anyone consulting a map.
Lunch turns out to be at at Gusto Leo, chosen because (a) it was on the way and (b) it had air conditioning. Mary and AlteCocker get large lunch salads while Tom gets gnocchi with some sort of a blue cheese sauce. Then it is off to the Bargello Museum. Let AlteCocker assure you, this museum, which she has missed on previous visits to Florence is just as important for Renaissance sculpture as the Uffizi is for Renaissance painting. Best of all, the Bargello is undervisited. No queue, no mobs of people and tons of Michaelangelo and a whole room devoted to Donatello. Donatello's "David" is certainly the star of the show. Some consider it greater than Michaelangelo's version--which has its own "house" at the Accademia. AlteCocker has seen the Michaelangelo version before twice but never the Donatello. It was really a great museum going experience. Somehow Mary and Tom mange to exit the museum before AlteCocker does during the "sweep out" just before 5:00pm and she misses them. So, she walks back to the apartment (about 5 or 10 minutes away), where Mary and Tom are seated at the restaurant closest to the apartment and Tom asks AlteCocker if she wants a prosecco. AlteCocker accepts even if it ends up knocking her out. Then it is time to go to the apartment and put our feet up as the heavens open up and it begins raining. At least it will cool things off.
September 7, 2016: Synagogue, Piazzale Michaelangelo & Steak
AlteCocker goes across the Piazza Santa Croce and gets a cappacino to start the day with some mini brioches. Sitting there is a tour director wearing a shirt that said "Trumpy Tours". Poor lady stuck with a name like that in the current political environment. AlteCocker has to snap a photo. The tour director cooperates.
Then we head for the synagogue. The presence of a sign indicates that it is nearby, thinks AlteCocker. It wasn't. It was a good walk across town, but Florence is a small place. The synagogue does not allow photos inside but it is just about the most beautiful synagogue AlteCocker has ever seen--and she has seen a lot because she is a Jewish AlteCocker (as if that weren't obvioius from the name of her blog. Mary & Tom have never been in a synagogue, so she acts as a tour guide explaining everything. It is a real shame they do not allow photos inside. There is heavy security. Men need to wear skull caps and shoulders must be covered.
Then we take a taxi to Piazzale Michaelangelo where there is a great overlook over Florence. It is a much better view than Fiesole because you are closer. You can take great shots of the Duomo, Santa Croce and the synagogue. Then we eat lunch nearby at a restaurant that overlooks the whole scene--albeit with various buses interrrupting the view, but not before AlteCocker buys another picture from another Albanian artist, Armando Xhomo. Must be something about Albanian artists heading for Florence-or maybe AlteCocker has a weakness for Albanian artists. She has definitely bought more art than she needs, but she is happy.
After lunch we take the regular bus back into Florence and walk home along the Arno. Then it is time for a lay down. Plan for tonight is Florentine steak. We dumped our wad on steak at a nearby restaurant called Caffe Italiano--very close to Santa Croce. The steak was just wonderful. We had apperitifs, a bottle of wine, dessert--the works. Mary goes right to bed when we return, but AlteCocker hits the computer to do the blog. Tom falls asleep in an easy chair staring at his computer.
Then we head for the synagogue. The presence of a sign indicates that it is nearby, thinks AlteCocker. It wasn't. It was a good walk across town, but Florence is a small place. The synagogue does not allow photos inside but it is just about the most beautiful synagogue AlteCocker has ever seen--and she has seen a lot because she is a Jewish AlteCocker (as if that weren't obvioius from the name of her blog. Mary & Tom have never been in a synagogue, so she acts as a tour guide explaining everything. It is a real shame they do not allow photos inside. There is heavy security. Men need to wear skull caps and shoulders must be covered.
Then we take a taxi to Piazzale Michaelangelo where there is a great overlook over Florence. It is a much better view than Fiesole because you are closer. You can take great shots of the Duomo, Santa Croce and the synagogue. Then we eat lunch nearby at a restaurant that overlooks the whole scene--albeit with various buses interrrupting the view, but not before AlteCocker buys another picture from another Albanian artist, Armando Xhomo. Must be something about Albanian artists heading for Florence-or maybe AlteCocker has a weakness for Albanian artists. She has definitely bought more art than she needs, but she is happy.
After lunch we take the regular bus back into Florence and walk home along the Arno. Then it is time for a lay down. Plan for tonight is Florentine steak. We dumped our wad on steak at a nearby restaurant called Caffe Italiano--very close to Santa Croce. The steak was just wonderful. We had apperitifs, a bottle of wine, dessert--the works. Mary goes right to bed when we return, but AlteCocker hits the computer to do the blog. Tom falls asleep in an easy chair staring at his computer.
September 8, 2016: Pitti Palace, Boboli Gardens and Shopping
AlteCocker was very good on the shopping front until Venice. In Venice all shopping hell broke loose and it has continued in Florence. The blunt fact is that shopping is very good here. There was the infamous shopping trip to Italy many years ago. This one is on its way to being the same sort of shop--albeit without AlteCocker's daughter along.
AlteCocker has a croissant and cappacino and sets out solo for the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens. Mary and Tom took the day off. Those destinations are across the Ponte Vecchio--which is lined with jewelry shops. That is a dangerous street if you are AlteCocker. While she has as much jewelry as anyone could want or need, she is invited to want more along that street. A 191 euro purchase occurs on the way over (earings and a pendant but no chain for the pendant) on the way over and a relatively inexpensive pin on the way back. When AlteCocker used to go to court every day she had a lot of lapel pins. Buying a new one when you are almost never wearing a suit is hard to justify but one did jump into AlteCocker's purse by itself.
She did eventually make it to the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens after jewelry purchase #1. The Pitti Palace was fabulous. Botticelli, Fra Fillipo Lippi, Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto, and Veronese are there. The star of the show was a madonna and child by Rafael. That one AlteCocker would have gladly taken home if she could afford it. If only Rafael had lived longer, think of what he would have done! The best thing about the Pitti Palace is that almost no one is there. Unfortunately, many people just walk through ignoring the famous names attached to the paintings on the wall. The one criticism is they hang the paintings one over the other and the ones on the top are hard to see. On the positive side the big guns are generally on the bottom where you can see them. It was just a wonderful art experience without mobs of people. It is really a good alternative to the "must see" mobs at the Uffizi.
After the Pitti Palace and lunch in the restaurant, AlteCocker went to the Boboli Gardens. Unless you are a mountain climber who enjoys climbing in the heat, the Gardens are going to be difficult. There is a lot of up and down climbing. If she had it to do over, she would have given it a pass. She makes it to the first terrace and throws in the towel. It is a very steep walk down as well and it is good she has a hiking pole with her. No one wants a broken ankle even at the end of a trip.
Then AlteCocker walked back to Piazza Santa Croce via the Ponte Vecchio pin purchase and then a couple of smaller purchases (a cat shaped purse for the little girl next door and 5 euro Pinocchio marionnetes for both her and her brother--and, oh yes, a new wallet for AlteCocker. She is back at the apartment (having also hit the ATM for the last time, she hopes) by 4:00pm to put her feet up until it is time to go to a concert conducted by Zubin Mehta in the evening. It was out at the Opera di Firenze--a good distance from Central Florence. We had a lengthy cab ride out there due to traffic. Mehta is now 80 years old and still conducting! Obviously he has chosen to live in Florence and be the director of the orchestra as a sort of paid retirement. When you love what you are doing, you are still making good music at 80! The first part of the concert was what AlteCocker enjoyed best. Stefan Bollani, primarily known as a jazz pianist, played Francis Poulenc and then gave multiple encores--the most stellar of which was an improvisation on the Poulenc piece he just played. It was somewhat unusual to see someone play classical music in jeans, but, hey, if you play as well as he he does, you could wear a bathing suit . He is obviously a home town boy made good--and wowed the crowd, including AlteCocker. The second part of the concert was Mahler's Symphony No. 6. It was an hour and a half long and just too long for AlteCocker's taste. She is not a fan of Mahler. It was a much faster taxi ride home to Santa Croce, but, with the extra charge for a late night taxi, about the same price.
AlteCocker has a croissant and cappacino and sets out solo for the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens. Mary and Tom took the day off. Those destinations are across the Ponte Vecchio--which is lined with jewelry shops. That is a dangerous street if you are AlteCocker. While she has as much jewelry as anyone could want or need, she is invited to want more along that street. A 191 euro purchase occurs on the way over (earings and a pendant but no chain for the pendant) on the way over and a relatively inexpensive pin on the way back. When AlteCocker used to go to court every day she had a lot of lapel pins. Buying a new one when you are almost never wearing a suit is hard to justify but one did jump into AlteCocker's purse by itself.
She did eventually make it to the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens after jewelry purchase #1. The Pitti Palace was fabulous. Botticelli, Fra Fillipo Lippi, Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto, and Veronese are there. The star of the show was a madonna and child by Rafael. That one AlteCocker would have gladly taken home if she could afford it. If only Rafael had lived longer, think of what he would have done! The best thing about the Pitti Palace is that almost no one is there. Unfortunately, many people just walk through ignoring the famous names attached to the paintings on the wall. The one criticism is they hang the paintings one over the other and the ones on the top are hard to see. On the positive side the big guns are generally on the bottom where you can see them. It was just a wonderful art experience without mobs of people. It is really a good alternative to the "must see" mobs at the Uffizi.
After the Pitti Palace and lunch in the restaurant, AlteCocker went to the Boboli Gardens. Unless you are a mountain climber who enjoys climbing in the heat, the Gardens are going to be difficult. There is a lot of up and down climbing. If she had it to do over, she would have given it a pass. She makes it to the first terrace and throws in the towel. It is a very steep walk down as well and it is good she has a hiking pole with her. No one wants a broken ankle even at the end of a trip.
Then AlteCocker walked back to Piazza Santa Croce via the Ponte Vecchio pin purchase and then a couple of smaller purchases (a cat shaped purse for the little girl next door and 5 euro Pinocchio marionnetes for both her and her brother--and, oh yes, a new wallet for AlteCocker. She is back at the apartment (having also hit the ATM for the last time, she hopes) by 4:00pm to put her feet up until it is time to go to a concert conducted by Zubin Mehta in the evening. It was out at the Opera di Firenze--a good distance from Central Florence. We had a lengthy cab ride out there due to traffic. Mehta is now 80 years old and still conducting! Obviously he has chosen to live in Florence and be the director of the orchestra as a sort of paid retirement. When you love what you are doing, you are still making good music at 80! The first part of the concert was what AlteCocker enjoyed best. Stefan Bollani, primarily known as a jazz pianist, played Francis Poulenc and then gave multiple encores--the most stellar of which was an improvisation on the Poulenc piece he just played. It was somewhat unusual to see someone play classical music in jeans, but, hey, if you play as well as he he does, you could wear a bathing suit . He is obviously a home town boy made good--and wowed the crowd, including AlteCocker. The second part of the concert was Mahler's Symphony No. 6. It was an hour and a half long and just too long for AlteCocker's taste. She is not a fan of Mahler. It was a much faster taxi ride home to Santa Croce, but, with the extra charge for a late night taxi, about the same price.
September 9, 2016: Greve in Chianti and San GiMignano
This was Mary's idea: to get out of town by renting a car. The original intent was to take a bus to the Santa Maria Novella train station and then take the airport bus to the Florence airport. A taxi is only slightly more than the airport bus because we had 3 people, so we took a taxi. Renting the car took way too long as, even though it was reserved, there was a long queue. It was the beginning of a day that had its stressful moments but included a lovely lunch and some grand views of Tuscany. While the views were nice, what AlteCocker saw in the lakes was, in her opinion, much more spectacular. Of course, she just saw a few bits of Tuscany.
We took the Chianti wine route with wineries with the usual tasting and buying opportunities available. We didn't stop. When you can't stuff cases of wine in your luggage, there does not seem to be much point. We end up in a town called Greve, where the goal was, of course, lunch. The restaurant was called Enoteca Ristorante Gallo Nero ("The Black Rooster"--the rooster being the symbol of the Chianti region). Mary and Tom had been before but not, of course, AlteCocker. AlteCocker had young rooster with potatoes. Tom had traditional Tuscan bread soup; Mary had some pasta that looked fabulous. Some of the appetizers were great too--as was the cheesecake soaked in Vin Santo for dessert consumed by all of us. Entertainment was provided by a very loud group of Italian-Americans--all Trump supporters--at an adjacent table. When we left, AlteCocker told them Hillary Clinton was going to clean Trump's clock in the election--at least she sure hopes so.
AlteCocker left with a very unusual purchase--a pepper grinder shaped like a small wine bottle. It's unique and will forever remind AlteCocker of the lunch at the restaurant.
While in Greve, we also checked out a Chianti wine festival that was in town for the weekend. AlteCocker did not do the wine tasting which cost 20 euros for 10 tastes when you included the price of the glass you had to buy. She satisfied herself with a t-shirt and a cute wine thing for cutting the plastic off the tops of wine bottles.
Then it was off to San Gimignano--renowned for its 14 remaining tower homes where people hid when the town was invaded. Despite an elevator up to the town, a lot of walking--mostly up--is involved. No one was interested in climbing any of the towers. AlteCocker's days of climbing churches and towers are definitely over. So we had gelatos and went down to the bottom of the hill where we could shoot photos of the town skyline. All and all, the lunch in Greve was the highlight of the day. San Gimignano just required too much energy for a car full of AlteCockers.
Then we had to return the car to the airport. The GPS proved less than helpful and we had to make several passes before finally figuring out where it was that we needed to go. Finally we got out stuff together and left the car. This time we took a cab back to Santa Croce and the apartment--a much better option than using several means of transport to save pennies.
When we got back, it was 24 hours before her first of two flights that will take her home. AlteCocker got the notice and checked in. Most of the laundry was dry and it was time for one final suitcase packing before heading for the train to Rome and the bus to the airport (this time it will be a bus because a taxi from the train station would be too much for one person). All good trips come to an end.
We took the Chianti wine route with wineries with the usual tasting and buying opportunities available. We didn't stop. When you can't stuff cases of wine in your luggage, there does not seem to be much point. We end up in a town called Greve, where the goal was, of course, lunch. The restaurant was called Enoteca Ristorante Gallo Nero ("The Black Rooster"--the rooster being the symbol of the Chianti region). Mary and Tom had been before but not, of course, AlteCocker. AlteCocker had young rooster with potatoes. Tom had traditional Tuscan bread soup; Mary had some pasta that looked fabulous. Some of the appetizers were great too--as was the cheesecake soaked in Vin Santo for dessert consumed by all of us. Entertainment was provided by a very loud group of Italian-Americans--all Trump supporters--at an adjacent table. When we left, AlteCocker told them Hillary Clinton was going to clean Trump's clock in the election--at least she sure hopes so.
AlteCocker left with a very unusual purchase--a pepper grinder shaped like a small wine bottle. It's unique and will forever remind AlteCocker of the lunch at the restaurant.
While in Greve, we also checked out a Chianti wine festival that was in town for the weekend. AlteCocker did not do the wine tasting which cost 20 euros for 10 tastes when you included the price of the glass you had to buy. She satisfied herself with a t-shirt and a cute wine thing for cutting the plastic off the tops of wine bottles.
Then it was off to San Gimignano--renowned for its 14 remaining tower homes where people hid when the town was invaded. Despite an elevator up to the town, a lot of walking--mostly up--is involved. No one was interested in climbing any of the towers. AlteCocker's days of climbing churches and towers are definitely over. So we had gelatos and went down to the bottom of the hill where we could shoot photos of the town skyline. All and all, the lunch in Greve was the highlight of the day. San Gimignano just required too much energy for a car full of AlteCockers.
Then we had to return the car to the airport. The GPS proved less than helpful and we had to make several passes before finally figuring out where it was that we needed to go. Finally we got out stuff together and left the car. This time we took a cab back to Santa Croce and the apartment--a much better option than using several means of transport to save pennies.
When we got back, it was 24 hours before her first of two flights that will take her home. AlteCocker got the notice and checked in. Most of the laundry was dry and it was time for one final suitcase packing before heading for the train to Rome and the bus to the airport (this time it will be a bus because a taxi from the train station would be too much for one person). All good trips come to an end.
September 10-11, 2016: The Journey Home
And so it was time for AlteCocker to say "arrivederci" to Italy. The train from Florence was prebooked (she booked it while she was in Florence) for just after 2:00pm. Mary & Tom were feeling a bit under the weather with colds (which as of this writing AlteCocker has not caught). So AlteCocker took her bag out of the building and walked a short distance to the taxi stand and snagged at taxi to the train station, where she went to the Italotreno air conditioned waiting room to wait. In the waiting room she realized, she had neglected to give her two remaining bus tickets to Mary & Tom. She gave them to a lady seated next to her who lived in Florence.
Boarding the train was done without incident. The train, however, ran late into Roma Termini due to a problem the day before. When she exited, Mary's directions about where to catch the bus for Fumicino were confusing. AlteCocker did not know there were several bus companies. She purchased a ticket from a tobaconist and then had to search for the correct bus and wait for the next Fumicino bus. Fumicino, by the way, is the town where the airport is. The name of the airport is Leonardo DaVinci. Don't get confused: Both are the same.
By the time AlteCocker arrived at the airport, AlteCocker's stomach was in overdrive. After checking in there was a race to the bathroom. Happily, all ended well, but it is not a good situation in an airport. The toilets at Fumicino were new and first class. Then she had to queue at one of those global refund places behind a lot of Chinese tourists who apparently bought out the store. She finished that and then headed for the gate.
While it would not be everyone's cup of tea, AlteCocker did not fly directly home. She flew home via Istanbul on Turkish Airlines because, of course, she got a cheap deal. Direct flights would have been over $300 beyond what she paid. The only problem in Istanbul was sitting somewhere as there was insufficient seating and the toilets (the usual unspeakable Turkish variety--no paper, deficient flusing, etc.). AlteCocker had forgotten about Turkish toilets. With 6 hours to kill, there was plenty of time to experience them.
The seating problem was resolved when AlteCocker saw a huge obviously African American man with an empty seat next to him. She new immediately he was an American and sat down in the empty seat. He turned out to be Ken Barlow, a guy who had played for Notre Dame, been drafted by the Los Angles Lakers and then ended up playing in Europe for years. He had just gone to Greece for a reunion for his old Thessoloniki team and was headed back to his home in Indiana via the same flight to Dulles that AlteCocker was taking. He was a really delightful guy and the two of us killed time talking to each other. By the way, he didn't tell AlteCocker all the facts about his basketball career. She looked it up afterwards. He was actually quite a modest guy and told AlteCocker that he is now a fundraiser for a school that concentrates on getting African American young men through high school and into college. Anyway, you never know who you are going to meet in an airport. AlteCocker once tied her shoes next to Snooki from the TV program Jersey Shore and had no idea who she was. We went through the metal detector together in New York for what that is worth.
Ken and AlteCocker shared the job of periodically checking the board for the gate for our flight. Good news: We were sitting in front of it, so that part was good.
And then it was time for the long flight. Poor Ken. He didn't get an exit row seat. It is very difficult for very tall people to travel in coach. AlteCocker has problems and she has short Jewish genes. Turkish Airlines is Turkey's national flagship airline. AlteCocker has flown them before. They treat passengers well. You get fed, you get wine (AlteCocker had the Turkish cherry juice instead of wine because she can't get Turkish cherry juice at home and her stomach was still a bit touchy), you get good service. However she could have done without the booklet dealing with the 2016 coup attempt blaming the "Gullenists"--and especially the old guy in Pennsylvania. It was obvious that Turkish Airlines had to do what it had to do given the current government there but it is sad to see Turkey slip into what it amounts to dictatorship. No one outside Turkey really knows what the coup was all about but blaming that old guy living in Pennsylvania seems a bit far fetched in AlteCocker's opinion. AlteCocker did watch one film, "A Little Chaos"--a 2014 film about the building of the gardens at Versailles. AlteCocker always has problems concentrating on long flights due to exhaustion. Attempts to sleep failed for any great length of time. After the film, which she enjoyed, she watched CNN and the commemoration of 911 15 years on live for awhile and then unsuccessfully tried to sleep again. She was in the middle row but with an empty seat next to her.
After the endurance contest, the plane arrived at Dulles. AlteCocker has had Mobile Passport on her phone for months and was delighted that Dulles was finally using it. She whipped through the first part of Immigration but then joined the queue of people waiting to go through Immigration who went to the machines and got a paper receipt. With Mobile Passport the receipt is on your phone. Unfortunately, baggage claim was not so simple. The baggage got jammed up and had to be manually thrown out before resuming. Yes, AlteCocker's suitcase finally arrived. The broken handle was now broken off. That suitcase was dead on arrival and has since been tossed. She waved good by to Ken at the baggage claim. He had one more flight to catch to get home.
One of AlteCocker's film cards was left behind at the home exchange house. AlteCocker hadn't noticed until she got home. It was retrieved by the home exchangers and will be sent to her eventually. No big deal as all the photos are on her computer.
The new paintings are at the framers, a gift for the people in Corsica will soon be on order and the usual round of catching up is in progress. AlteCocker will be visiting her house for awhile.
Thank you all for reading.
Boarding the train was done without incident. The train, however, ran late into Roma Termini due to a problem the day before. When she exited, Mary's directions about where to catch the bus for Fumicino were confusing. AlteCocker did not know there were several bus companies. She purchased a ticket from a tobaconist and then had to search for the correct bus and wait for the next Fumicino bus. Fumicino, by the way, is the town where the airport is. The name of the airport is Leonardo DaVinci. Don't get confused: Both are the same.
By the time AlteCocker arrived at the airport, AlteCocker's stomach was in overdrive. After checking in there was a race to the bathroom. Happily, all ended well, but it is not a good situation in an airport. The toilets at Fumicino were new and first class. Then she had to queue at one of those global refund places behind a lot of Chinese tourists who apparently bought out the store. She finished that and then headed for the gate.
While it would not be everyone's cup of tea, AlteCocker did not fly directly home. She flew home via Istanbul on Turkish Airlines because, of course, she got a cheap deal. Direct flights would have been over $300 beyond what she paid. The only problem in Istanbul was sitting somewhere as there was insufficient seating and the toilets (the usual unspeakable Turkish variety--no paper, deficient flusing, etc.). AlteCocker had forgotten about Turkish toilets. With 6 hours to kill, there was plenty of time to experience them.
The seating problem was resolved when AlteCocker saw a huge obviously African American man with an empty seat next to him. She new immediately he was an American and sat down in the empty seat. He turned out to be Ken Barlow, a guy who had played for Notre Dame, been drafted by the Los Angles Lakers and then ended up playing in Europe for years. He had just gone to Greece for a reunion for his old Thessoloniki team and was headed back to his home in Indiana via the same flight to Dulles that AlteCocker was taking. He was a really delightful guy and the two of us killed time talking to each other. By the way, he didn't tell AlteCocker all the facts about his basketball career. She looked it up afterwards. He was actually quite a modest guy and told AlteCocker that he is now a fundraiser for a school that concentrates on getting African American young men through high school and into college. Anyway, you never know who you are going to meet in an airport. AlteCocker once tied her shoes next to Snooki from the TV program Jersey Shore and had no idea who she was. We went through the metal detector together in New York for what that is worth.
Ken and AlteCocker shared the job of periodically checking the board for the gate for our flight. Good news: We were sitting in front of it, so that part was good.
And then it was time for the long flight. Poor Ken. He didn't get an exit row seat. It is very difficult for very tall people to travel in coach. AlteCocker has problems and she has short Jewish genes. Turkish Airlines is Turkey's national flagship airline. AlteCocker has flown them before. They treat passengers well. You get fed, you get wine (AlteCocker had the Turkish cherry juice instead of wine because she can't get Turkish cherry juice at home and her stomach was still a bit touchy), you get good service. However she could have done without the booklet dealing with the 2016 coup attempt blaming the "Gullenists"--and especially the old guy in Pennsylvania. It was obvious that Turkish Airlines had to do what it had to do given the current government there but it is sad to see Turkey slip into what it amounts to dictatorship. No one outside Turkey really knows what the coup was all about but blaming that old guy living in Pennsylvania seems a bit far fetched in AlteCocker's opinion. AlteCocker did watch one film, "A Little Chaos"--a 2014 film about the building of the gardens at Versailles. AlteCocker always has problems concentrating on long flights due to exhaustion. Attempts to sleep failed for any great length of time. After the film, which she enjoyed, she watched CNN and the commemoration of 911 15 years on live for awhile and then unsuccessfully tried to sleep again. She was in the middle row but with an empty seat next to her.
After the endurance contest, the plane arrived at Dulles. AlteCocker has had Mobile Passport on her phone for months and was delighted that Dulles was finally using it. She whipped through the first part of Immigration but then joined the queue of people waiting to go through Immigration who went to the machines and got a paper receipt. With Mobile Passport the receipt is on your phone. Unfortunately, baggage claim was not so simple. The baggage got jammed up and had to be manually thrown out before resuming. Yes, AlteCocker's suitcase finally arrived. The broken handle was now broken off. That suitcase was dead on arrival and has since been tossed. She waved good by to Ken at the baggage claim. He had one more flight to catch to get home.
One of AlteCocker's film cards was left behind at the home exchange house. AlteCocker hadn't noticed until she got home. It was retrieved by the home exchangers and will be sent to her eventually. No big deal as all the photos are on her computer.
The new paintings are at the framers, a gift for the people in Corsica will soon be on order and the usual round of catching up is in progress. AlteCocker will be visiting her house for awhile.
Thank you all for reading.