August 1, 2014: Bye Bye Istanbul, Hello Stockholm
Well, today was another busy transition day. AlteCocker left the apartment in Istanbul, and, has been her luck, a nice man carried her large suitcase down the stairs. Sometimes being an AlteCocker is a good thing. It is also useful for getting seats on buses.
AlteCocker's plane was not until 2:00pm but she arrived at the Ataturk Airport south of Istanbul with plenty of time to spare. To get a taxi, all she had to do was to walk out the door to throw the trash in the dumpster on the side street with her luggage. Taxis cruise the streets around the Galata Tower looking for fares. The first 3 had passengers. The 4th taxi was empty. It was soon filled with AlteCocker and her junk.
AlteCocker's main tasks at the airport were to get rid of her remaining Turkish lira and to get her Global Tax Refund on her camera. As frequent travelers know, European countries have high value added taxes (VAT) and nonresidents can get the tax back (or at least part of it after a service charge is deducted) by going through rigamarole at the airport when leaving. AlteCocker first had a snack and then went looking for Global Tax Refund. It was right in front of her nose. Oh goody. Oh goody not. First the piece of paper had to be stamped by someone else. Where was that office? AlteCocker bets you know where this one is going: The office was at the other side of international departures and international departures is huge. So, off AlteCocker went to get her piece of paper stamped. Then it was back to the original office to get her refund--6 dollars. Don't ask why these two offices could not be adjacent. My hunch is that the whole business is so that people will be discouraged from getting refunds. AlteCocker had plenty of time and got her daily exercise. It gave her something to do while waiting for her plane.
Now about waiting for a plane at Ataturk: Don't expect to just go to the gate and sit down. You are almost forced into buying food to sit somewhere. Gates are closed until they open them for boarding. Then you take little buses out to the plane. Also don't expect to board by rows--that one has seemingly not been discovered in Turkey (or in most places in Europe. It's a rugby scrum.
Eventually everyone boards after many hold up others finding seats because the rugby scrum means no boarding by rows.
And AlteCocker was off and out of hot Istanbul to cooler Stockholm. She was ready.
At the Stockholm airport, arrival and customs went smoothly. Rather than seeing whether her credit card would dispense another cash advance, she simply changed dollars to kroner and then went to a tourist information booth to buy a round trip fly bus ticket from/to Arlandra Airport. The bus ride went off uneventfully, AlteCocker recognizing where she got off the bus two years ago to meet her Taby home exchangers. AlteCocker was in Stockholm two years ago but had stayed in Taby--far out in the suburbs. This time she is downtown in the middle of it all, but, unlike two years ago, without a car. You win some, you lose some. The taxi driver took her to the apartment address. When she gave him a small tip, he informed her not to do that in Sweden as everything is included. She let him keep the tip.
The apartment in Stockholm was located where it was supposed to be, but, as has happened before, AlteCocker had some difficulty with the door. What else is new? There are always problems with home exchanges. Unfortunately, the apartment came without a Stockholm map. AlteCocker will pick up one of those tomorrow and begin scoping out the public transport system. What she learned 2 years ago has to be relearned to fit with her present location. It's always disorienting at first. When you learn how everthing works on a home exchange, you go home.
AlteCocker's plane was not until 2:00pm but she arrived at the Ataturk Airport south of Istanbul with plenty of time to spare. To get a taxi, all she had to do was to walk out the door to throw the trash in the dumpster on the side street with her luggage. Taxis cruise the streets around the Galata Tower looking for fares. The first 3 had passengers. The 4th taxi was empty. It was soon filled with AlteCocker and her junk.
AlteCocker's main tasks at the airport were to get rid of her remaining Turkish lira and to get her Global Tax Refund on her camera. As frequent travelers know, European countries have high value added taxes (VAT) and nonresidents can get the tax back (or at least part of it after a service charge is deducted) by going through rigamarole at the airport when leaving. AlteCocker first had a snack and then went looking for Global Tax Refund. It was right in front of her nose. Oh goody. Oh goody not. First the piece of paper had to be stamped by someone else. Where was that office? AlteCocker bets you know where this one is going: The office was at the other side of international departures and international departures is huge. So, off AlteCocker went to get her piece of paper stamped. Then it was back to the original office to get her refund--6 dollars. Don't ask why these two offices could not be adjacent. My hunch is that the whole business is so that people will be discouraged from getting refunds. AlteCocker had plenty of time and got her daily exercise. It gave her something to do while waiting for her plane.
Now about waiting for a plane at Ataturk: Don't expect to just go to the gate and sit down. You are almost forced into buying food to sit somewhere. Gates are closed until they open them for boarding. Then you take little buses out to the plane. Also don't expect to board by rows--that one has seemingly not been discovered in Turkey (or in most places in Europe. It's a rugby scrum.
Eventually everyone boards after many hold up others finding seats because the rugby scrum means no boarding by rows.
And AlteCocker was off and out of hot Istanbul to cooler Stockholm. She was ready.
At the Stockholm airport, arrival and customs went smoothly. Rather than seeing whether her credit card would dispense another cash advance, she simply changed dollars to kroner and then went to a tourist information booth to buy a round trip fly bus ticket from/to Arlandra Airport. The bus ride went off uneventfully, AlteCocker recognizing where she got off the bus two years ago to meet her Taby home exchangers. AlteCocker was in Stockholm two years ago but had stayed in Taby--far out in the suburbs. This time she is downtown in the middle of it all, but, unlike two years ago, without a car. You win some, you lose some. The taxi driver took her to the apartment address. When she gave him a small tip, he informed her not to do that in Sweden as everything is included. She let him keep the tip.
The apartment in Stockholm was located where it was supposed to be, but, as has happened before, AlteCocker had some difficulty with the door. What else is new? There are always problems with home exchanges. Unfortunately, the apartment came without a Stockholm map. AlteCocker will pick up one of those tomorrow and begin scoping out the public transport system. What she learned 2 years ago has to be relearned to fit with her present location. It's always disorienting at first. When you learn how everthing works on a home exchange, you go home.
August 2, 2014: Getting Opera tickets, gay Pride Parade
After messing around too long on the computer, AlteCocker finally moved her bod and got out of the house. She had a "fikka" (Swedish coffee break) at the coffee place right under her apartment building and then inaugurated her 2 week public transport pass (obtained for her by her home exchanger because he has use of AlteCocker's car in return). She went down to tourist information in Sergels Tor--sort of the main hub in Stockholm with a huge underground center and quickly found out that the Gay Pride Parade was on. There were a lot of people in "odd" clothing--no different from such events in the US.
Today's main event, however, was the inauguration of AlteCocker's spanking new ATM card. She activated it on the 1st in a 90 second call to the US wherein she was reminded that "800" calls made from outside the country are not free calls. Today she tried it in a bank machine and it worked so she can stop taking cash advances on her Capital One card (a terrible way to manage things) and return to living in the pre Istanbul burglary world of normal people. It was a great relief.
At tourist information AlteCocker inquired about what was going on in the culture department while she was here. There is English language Shakespeare one night, but the woman at the desk suggested the opera at Drottingholm Slott--something AlteCocker had already looked into because she did it the last time she was in Stockholm and loved it. She had also suggested it to a girlfriend--who will be joining her for 11 days starting August 4th. Turned out AlteCocker could buy the tickets from tourist information for the same price as at the box office without the annoying ticketmaster type fees, so the tickets were bought for August 10th. AlteCocker got the cheapest tickets in the house because the theater is very small. The theater itself is a time capsule of 18th century theater with "special" effects done by hand. There is nothing like it in the US--and going to unique places is part of what travel is about.
After buying the tickets, AlteCocker went down to see what the Gay Pride parade was all about. She saw a lot of people dancing around enjoying themselves. She also noticed a Thai Street Festival in the same general area--and long lines for the portable toilets (always a feature of such mega events everywhere). She then had an ice cream and, realizing she had reached Sergels Tor again after walking around in a circle, took the subway home. Dinner was at a falafel stand at a square just adjacent to her apartment which has a number of food stalls. There is advertising for the musical "Evita" at a theater directly across the street from her apartment, but, alas, it does not start until the fall. All large cities have the same problem with summer entertainment: The locals who would go are out of town, so there is less of it. Washington, DC, is no different. So, no possibility of hearing Evita sing "Don't Cry for Me Argentina."
Today's main event, however, was the inauguration of AlteCocker's spanking new ATM card. She activated it on the 1st in a 90 second call to the US wherein she was reminded that "800" calls made from outside the country are not free calls. Today she tried it in a bank machine and it worked so she can stop taking cash advances on her Capital One card (a terrible way to manage things) and return to living in the pre Istanbul burglary world of normal people. It was a great relief.
At tourist information AlteCocker inquired about what was going on in the culture department while she was here. There is English language Shakespeare one night, but the woman at the desk suggested the opera at Drottingholm Slott--something AlteCocker had already looked into because she did it the last time she was in Stockholm and loved it. She had also suggested it to a girlfriend--who will be joining her for 11 days starting August 4th. Turned out AlteCocker could buy the tickets from tourist information for the same price as at the box office without the annoying ticketmaster type fees, so the tickets were bought for August 10th. AlteCocker got the cheapest tickets in the house because the theater is very small. The theater itself is a time capsule of 18th century theater with "special" effects done by hand. There is nothing like it in the US--and going to unique places is part of what travel is about.
After buying the tickets, AlteCocker went down to see what the Gay Pride parade was all about. She saw a lot of people dancing around enjoying themselves. She also noticed a Thai Street Festival in the same general area--and long lines for the portable toilets (always a feature of such mega events everywhere). She then had an ice cream and, realizing she had reached Sergels Tor again after walking around in a circle, took the subway home. Dinner was at a falafel stand at a square just adjacent to her apartment which has a number of food stalls. There is advertising for the musical "Evita" at a theater directly across the street from her apartment, but, alas, it does not start until the fall. All large cities have the same problem with summer entertainment: The locals who would go are out of town, so there is less of it. Washington, DC, is no different. So, no possibility of hearing Evita sing "Don't Cry for Me Argentina."
August 3, 2014: Fotografiska
Well this was AlteCocker's last solo day in Stockholm until the very end of her stay. Alexandra, her best friend from the US arrives in the morning to share the fun. Alexandra has never been to Stockholm before, so we will be doing some of the first timer sightseeing stuff. Today AlteCocker looked for something different to see that was not on the sightseeing A List. She had decided to go to Fotografiska, a very unusual visual arts museum in Stockholm that is quite near her apartment. Having a morning coffee in Wayne Coffee just underneath her apartment, she got tipped off on how to walk to the museum. Fotografiska is much more than a conventional photography museum. It is a visual arts museum with a some video installations as well as conventional photographs. Before even entering the museum, however, its location is a drop dead gorgeous location for Stockholm panorama photos. AlteCocker snapped away and then enjoyed several hours in the museum looking at the gorgeous photos and the video installations. One inspired by Chinese immigrant workers who had died while collecting seafood attached to rocks in England near Dover was especially interesting. AlteCocker was in there for almost an hour.
Leaving Fotografiska, AlteCocker walked along the seaside admiring the views of Stockholm before eventually running into the subway line that would take her home. Having a public transport pass is nice as you do not worry about using the pass to go one stop. You just use it as needed without needing to look for change. AlteCocker and Alexandra have public transport passes as part of the exchange in return for the use of AlteCocker's car in the US. AlteCocker's exchanger has no car in Stockholm. Given his drop dead location in the center of the action here a car in Stockholm would be just about as useful as one in New York City--a huge pain in the ass. Public transport is easy and non stressful.
After enjoying a drink at a cafe across the street, AlteCocker was just entering her building when a nice couple opened the door for her. She assumed that they lived in the building, but, no, they were looking after their son's cat while their son was in New York. We all got to talking and the woman is president of the Stockholm City Council. AlteCocker missed visiting City Hall on her last visit and now has to go. She was also urged to visit Millesgärden, a park that has a lot of sculpture. Something else to add to the list. If AlteCocker gets to City Hall, she will have to drop by to see the President of the City Council!
Leaving Fotografiska, AlteCocker walked along the seaside admiring the views of Stockholm before eventually running into the subway line that would take her home. Having a public transport pass is nice as you do not worry about using the pass to go one stop. You just use it as needed without needing to look for change. AlteCocker and Alexandra have public transport passes as part of the exchange in return for the use of AlteCocker's car in the US. AlteCocker's exchanger has no car in Stockholm. Given his drop dead location in the center of the action here a car in Stockholm would be just about as useful as one in New York City--a huge pain in the ass. Public transport is easy and non stressful.
After enjoying a drink at a cafe across the street, AlteCocker was just entering her building when a nice couple opened the door for her. She assumed that they lived in the building, but, no, they were looking after their son's cat while their son was in New York. We all got to talking and the woman is president of the Stockholm City Council. AlteCocker missed visiting City Hall on her last visit and now has to go. She was also urged to visit Millesgärden, a park that has a lot of sculpture. Something else to add to the list. If AlteCocker gets to City Hall, she will have to drop by to see the President of the City Council!
August 4, 2014: Alexandra Arrives
AlteCocker's good friend Alexandra arrived this morning just on time. After some hang out time, we set out for a brief orientation to Stockholm. That consisted of going to the old city, Gamla Stan, and getting confused before finding the main shopping street there. AlteCocker went into a glass shop she remembered from two years ago and bought a small piece of glass with a Swedish horse embeded in it. Those of you who have traveled to Sweden will know the red Swedish wooden horses. The glass item had a take off of the wooden horse embedded in it.
A stop was made in a t-shirt place. Alexandra and AlteCocker were initially interested in a t-shirt whereby Santa Claus was arrested for breaking and entering, but, due the price we settled for a much cheaper alternative with, guess what, a Swedish horse on it? Alexandra is, of course, jet lagged and, when things got too much for her in the heat (and today was the warmest day of Sweden's summer), we hopped on a public ferry to Durgärden and return. Durgärden is an amusement park with the usual array of stomach churning rides. We just enjoyed the fresh air and the breeze going back and forth. Best thing: With our public transport passes the rides were free. We snapped some photos. There were 5 huge cruise ships at the Viking dock--meaning masses of people following tour guides with signs with numbers to visit popular sites. Avoiding such groups is a fine art: You must go early or late in the day.
After our excursion, we went back home on the subway and enjoyed drinks across the street at a bar/restaurant called "Exit". Then it was time to go home and move our laundry from the washer into the dryer. As it true with European dryers, it will probably take two hours to dry.
A stop was made in a t-shirt place. Alexandra and AlteCocker were initially interested in a t-shirt whereby Santa Claus was arrested for breaking and entering, but, due the price we settled for a much cheaper alternative with, guess what, a Swedish horse on it? Alexandra is, of course, jet lagged and, when things got too much for her in the heat (and today was the warmest day of Sweden's summer), we hopped on a public ferry to Durgärden and return. Durgärden is an amusement park with the usual array of stomach churning rides. We just enjoyed the fresh air and the breeze going back and forth. Best thing: With our public transport passes the rides were free. We snapped some photos. There were 5 huge cruise ships at the Viking dock--meaning masses of people following tour guides with signs with numbers to visit popular sites. Avoiding such groups is a fine art: You must go early or late in the day.
After our excursion, we went back home on the subway and enjoyed drinks across the street at a bar/restaurant called "Exit". Then it was time to go home and move our laundry from the washer into the dryer. As it true with European dryers, it will probably take two hours to dry.
August 5, 2014: Royal Palace, Stockholm
After our morning coffee at Wayne's downstairs from our apartment building, Alexandra and AlteCocker set out to "do" the Royal Palace. The changing of the guard takes place every day at 12:15pm, so that was the first event--and a bit of a bust up. When AlteCocker did this required event 2 years ago, it ended with a band playing music. When we got to what would be our places for the big deal, AlteCocker thought they were great--remembering the music from two years ago, but no. There was no music and the "action", such as it was, was off to the side. The ceremony finally ended in the pouring rain.
Time to get our tickets for the Royal Palace: 150 SK no discount for seniors. The tickets are good for 7 days for a number of sites on the palace grounds including the tour of the royal apartments and the Treasury. Those two things are what Alexandra and AlteCocker did. The rest of the stuff did not get done but our tickets are good for 7 seven days, so we might go back--or we might not. We did the Treasury first. The royal regalia is in there from coronations, etc. Alexandra wanted to do the English guided tour. AlteCocker quickly got bored with it. The problem: Masses of tourists, too many on the tour and there are only two rooms to see. While the tour guide harangued people, unless you elbowed your way to the front, you couldn't hear--or see any of the items in the case the tour guide was discussing. AlteCocker had been to the Treasury two years ago and quickly gave up on the tour. Alexandra, however, enjoyed it. AlteCocker looked at the items in the cases when the guide was not standing in front of them, finished and took a seat in the row of chairs in the gift shop while Alexandra finished the tour.
After the Treasury, we all joined the next English language guided tour of the Royal Apartments. While there were a lot of people, they split us into two groups and we had an excellent tour guide. Of course, we were helped by the fact that there was a lot more room to spread out and the acoustics let us hear the tour guide and there were portable chairs for us to carry and plop our asses in while visiting the rooms. The tour guide got a round of applause at the end of the tour. AlteCocker noticed one thing that was different from two years ago: There was heavy use of iPads to show us things--for example, the plan of the palace during different periods of history. The guide also discussed Swedish history and the fact that the Swedish Royal Family is really not Swedish at all but descended from one of Napoleon's generals. Crown Princess Victoria has married her personal trainer, now styled as Prince Daniel. They have a daughter Princess Estelle. Royalty has sure changed who it marries these days! It is even thought that AlteCocker's children on their father's side are related to the 43rd heir to the British throne, Maud Windsor. Jews related to British Royals? Royal standards of whom to marry have fallen all over. Ha!
After the tour of the Royal Apartments, we had a look at the Bernadotte Apartments, but, by that time we were Royal Palaced out and stopped for coffee and a snack. Then it was back to the apartment to chill out for awhile before heading out for dinner. We walked down Folkungagatan to choose a restaurant for dinner. We settled on Matboden Södermalm. It turned out to be a good choice. We had some delicious char coupled with some pear cider. No dessert was necessary but we stopped at the supermarket on the walk home and bought some mini Magnum's. We had hazelnut tonight. 3 pistacho and 1 hazelnut are left. To balance off the ice cream, we got some fruit.
The adventure continues. . . .
Time to get our tickets for the Royal Palace: 150 SK no discount for seniors. The tickets are good for 7 days for a number of sites on the palace grounds including the tour of the royal apartments and the Treasury. Those two things are what Alexandra and AlteCocker did. The rest of the stuff did not get done but our tickets are good for 7 seven days, so we might go back--or we might not. We did the Treasury first. The royal regalia is in there from coronations, etc. Alexandra wanted to do the English guided tour. AlteCocker quickly got bored with it. The problem: Masses of tourists, too many on the tour and there are only two rooms to see. While the tour guide harangued people, unless you elbowed your way to the front, you couldn't hear--or see any of the items in the case the tour guide was discussing. AlteCocker had been to the Treasury two years ago and quickly gave up on the tour. Alexandra, however, enjoyed it. AlteCocker looked at the items in the cases when the guide was not standing in front of them, finished and took a seat in the row of chairs in the gift shop while Alexandra finished the tour.
After the Treasury, we all joined the next English language guided tour of the Royal Apartments. While there were a lot of people, they split us into two groups and we had an excellent tour guide. Of course, we were helped by the fact that there was a lot more room to spread out and the acoustics let us hear the tour guide and there were portable chairs for us to carry and plop our asses in while visiting the rooms. The tour guide got a round of applause at the end of the tour. AlteCocker noticed one thing that was different from two years ago: There was heavy use of iPads to show us things--for example, the plan of the palace during different periods of history. The guide also discussed Swedish history and the fact that the Swedish Royal Family is really not Swedish at all but descended from one of Napoleon's generals. Crown Princess Victoria has married her personal trainer, now styled as Prince Daniel. They have a daughter Princess Estelle. Royalty has sure changed who it marries these days! It is even thought that AlteCocker's children on their father's side are related to the 43rd heir to the British throne, Maud Windsor. Jews related to British Royals? Royal standards of whom to marry have fallen all over. Ha!
After the tour of the Royal Apartments, we had a look at the Bernadotte Apartments, but, by that time we were Royal Palaced out and stopped for coffee and a snack. Then it was back to the apartment to chill out for awhile before heading out for dinner. We walked down Folkungagatan to choose a restaurant for dinner. We settled on Matboden Södermalm. It turned out to be a good choice. We had some delicious char coupled with some pear cider. No dessert was necessary but we stopped at the supermarket on the walk home and bought some mini Magnum's. We had hazelnut tonight. 3 pistacho and 1 hazelnut are left. To balance off the ice cream, we got some fruit.
The adventure continues. . . .
August 6, 2014: Fjäderholmarna Island
Alexandra and AlteCocker got a late start today and made their way down to Nybroplan Harbor to take some sort of boat cruise. There are several harbors in Stockholm and where to go for what can be very confusing. After viewing the statue of John Ericsson (we have a memorial to him in Washington, DC, as well), we got in the queue to get tickets to some sort of cruise.
First a word about John Ericsson--a man much better known in Sweden than in Washington, DC. If you don't know who he is, let me mention the Monitor and the Merrimac. Yes, John Ericsson, born in Sweden, was the inventor of the screw propeller--first used in the Battle of the Ironclads at Hampton Roads, Virginia, during the American Civil War. Alexandra and AlteCocker are both have guided tourists in Washington, DC. There, if we mention John Ericsson, in connection with his memorial in Washington (near the Lincoln Memorial along the Potomac), we almost always have to explain what he is known for--unless the tourists are Swedish. The Swedes all know who he was--and his statue in Stockholm is larger than the memorial in DC. So, AlteCocker made sure that Alexandra saw it.
Then it was off to the queue for tickets for some sort of cruise experience. Part of the beauty of Stockholm is the location among many islands. In fact, the Baltic Sea is just filled with islands from Finland to Sweden. AlteCocker discovered this when she took a day cruise from Turku, Finland, to Mariehamn in the Åland Islands in 2007. Seeing a piece of what Swedes refer to as the Archipeligo is really a requirement of any visit to Stockholm. Given the fact that most of the more extensive tours leave earlier in the morning, the most practical thing to do was a short cruise to Fjäderholmarna. It is about a half hour from the Nybroplan Harbor and an excellent introduction to the Archipelego. Basically, what you do is take the ferry, walk around the island (not very big at all), have lunch in one of the restaurants, shop in the craft shops and, when you've done that, go home. Some Swedes were swimming in the Baltic Sea, but Fjäderholmarna is really not the best place for that as the beaches tend to be rocky. That did not seem to bother some of the Swedes, however.
Alexandra and AlteCocker repaired to Fjäderholmarnas Krog, if not the best restaurant on the island, certainly one of the best. Alexandra had a huge shrimp salad while AlteCocker had salmon. Both pronounced their dishes delicious. The glasses of cider that we had to go along with them were perfect. Dessert was not necessary at the restaurant. We walked around the island, and took the boat back to the harbor where we began. Dessert was later in the apartment--pistachio Magnums.
First a word about John Ericsson--a man much better known in Sweden than in Washington, DC. If you don't know who he is, let me mention the Monitor and the Merrimac. Yes, John Ericsson, born in Sweden, was the inventor of the screw propeller--first used in the Battle of the Ironclads at Hampton Roads, Virginia, during the American Civil War. Alexandra and AlteCocker are both have guided tourists in Washington, DC. There, if we mention John Ericsson, in connection with his memorial in Washington (near the Lincoln Memorial along the Potomac), we almost always have to explain what he is known for--unless the tourists are Swedish. The Swedes all know who he was--and his statue in Stockholm is larger than the memorial in DC. So, AlteCocker made sure that Alexandra saw it.
Then it was off to the queue for tickets for some sort of cruise experience. Part of the beauty of Stockholm is the location among many islands. In fact, the Baltic Sea is just filled with islands from Finland to Sweden. AlteCocker discovered this when she took a day cruise from Turku, Finland, to Mariehamn in the Åland Islands in 2007. Seeing a piece of what Swedes refer to as the Archipeligo is really a requirement of any visit to Stockholm. Given the fact that most of the more extensive tours leave earlier in the morning, the most practical thing to do was a short cruise to Fjäderholmarna. It is about a half hour from the Nybroplan Harbor and an excellent introduction to the Archipelego. Basically, what you do is take the ferry, walk around the island (not very big at all), have lunch in one of the restaurants, shop in the craft shops and, when you've done that, go home. Some Swedes were swimming in the Baltic Sea, but Fjäderholmarna is really not the best place for that as the beaches tend to be rocky. That did not seem to bother some of the Swedes, however.
Alexandra and AlteCocker repaired to Fjäderholmarnas Krog, if not the best restaurant on the island, certainly one of the best. Alexandra had a huge shrimp salad while AlteCocker had salmon. Both pronounced their dishes delicious. The glasses of cider that we had to go along with them were perfect. Dessert was not necessary at the restaurant. We walked around the island, and took the boat back to the harbor where we began. Dessert was later in the apartment--pistachio Magnums.
August 7, 2014: Royal Palace Clean Up
Today was the day for Royal Palace clean up--meaning we used our Palace tickets to do some museums we missed plus bought a half price ticket to the Royal Armory (half price when you buy show your Palace ticket so don't lose your Palace ticket!). The Royal Armory contains a lot of old royal clothing. There is also a special exhibit of would be royal clothing in films. Both AlteCocker and Alexandra found that less interesting than real royal clothing. Some of the clothing wa. s related to the HBO series "Game of Thrones". Many people found it amusing to take their photos on a copy of the throne from that series.
In the real royal clothing there was an exhibit that included an outlandish Spanish style dress. Once a woman poured herself into that dress, it would have been impossible for her to sit down. What AlteCocker found most affecting was a tiny uniform worn by the present King Carl Gustav when he was 3 years old. AlteCocker is sure he would have preferred normal clothing. The uniform even had a minature royal decoration. What 3 year old would want to wear that for real--not to mention to be forced to stand stifly for photos wearing it?
Also seen were the Tre Kroner Museum and Gustav III's recreated Cabinet of Antiquities--both of which are included in the Royal Palace ticket. You can use your ticket for a week after buying it, so we maxed the ticket out. The Tre Kroner Museum has artifacts from a dig of the original castle--much of which burned in the 17th century. You can also see how the castle was constructed. The Cabinet of Antiquities recreates Gustav III's personal museum collection--typical of his time. He collected Roman sculpture and was just about the first noble to open his collection to the public as a museum. There were old paintings of what it looked like and the curators did a good job of recreating it.
In addition to the Palace museums we also checked out Riddarsholm Church, the burial church for many of the Swedish kings. It was closed a couple of days ago when AlteCocker and Alexandra tried to check it out, so it was finally examined. Lots of tombs and memorial plaques for foreigners who were honored by the Swedish government and have since died. When they die, their coats of arms are moved into the church at the exact same moment as they are being buried in their home countries. The most recent plaque moved in was Nelson Mandela. While no church can compare with Westminster Abbey, Riddarsholm serves a similar function in Sweden. Those buried in it, however, are mostly royals. AlteCocker had missed this church during her visit to Stockholm in 2012 and was glad not to miss it this time.
Lunch was at the Palace Cafe in the courtyard. AlteCocker had a paninni with cheese and pesto and Alexandra had a sandwhich with ham, an unusual cheese and lots of vegetables on a bread with sunflower seeds that she really liked. The sandwiches both came with watermelon slices. Additionally, Alexandra got strawberries with her and AlteCocker got a small salad. AlteCocker overdid things with an almond horn for dessert.
Then it was time to kill. We walked down to a park along the water and sat down for awhile just watching the locals. There was a Medieval Museum nearby but it was too late to investgate. Instead we took a walk toward the nearby Grand Hotel hoping to utilize some toilets there. No luck in the toilet department, but we did investigate the menu. It is one of many places in Stockholm that has a restaurant overlooking the water. Will we go back to eat there (and then presumably be able to investigate the toilets)? nNo idea.
Then it was time to make our way to the Storkyrkan Church adjacent to the Royal Palace where there was a Bach organ concert. While Stockholm had considerably cooled off as a result of thunderstorms last night, the inside of the church was still steamy. It made for a bit of discomfort in the church but the concert was excellent. The organist must have sweated the most of all as he was in the organ loft. When we clapped at the end, he held up the music in a symbolic honoring of Bach--a nice touch.
Then it was time for the subway back home. We had a drink at our neighborhood bar, the Exit.
In the real royal clothing there was an exhibit that included an outlandish Spanish style dress. Once a woman poured herself into that dress, it would have been impossible for her to sit down. What AlteCocker found most affecting was a tiny uniform worn by the present King Carl Gustav when he was 3 years old. AlteCocker is sure he would have preferred normal clothing. The uniform even had a minature royal decoration. What 3 year old would want to wear that for real--not to mention to be forced to stand stifly for photos wearing it?
Also seen were the Tre Kroner Museum and Gustav III's recreated Cabinet of Antiquities--both of which are included in the Royal Palace ticket. You can use your ticket for a week after buying it, so we maxed the ticket out. The Tre Kroner Museum has artifacts from a dig of the original castle--much of which burned in the 17th century. You can also see how the castle was constructed. The Cabinet of Antiquities recreates Gustav III's personal museum collection--typical of his time. He collected Roman sculpture and was just about the first noble to open his collection to the public as a museum. There were old paintings of what it looked like and the curators did a good job of recreating it.
In addition to the Palace museums we also checked out Riddarsholm Church, the burial church for many of the Swedish kings. It was closed a couple of days ago when AlteCocker and Alexandra tried to check it out, so it was finally examined. Lots of tombs and memorial plaques for foreigners who were honored by the Swedish government and have since died. When they die, their coats of arms are moved into the church at the exact same moment as they are being buried in their home countries. The most recent plaque moved in was Nelson Mandela. While no church can compare with Westminster Abbey, Riddarsholm serves a similar function in Sweden. Those buried in it, however, are mostly royals. AlteCocker had missed this church during her visit to Stockholm in 2012 and was glad not to miss it this time.
Lunch was at the Palace Cafe in the courtyard. AlteCocker had a paninni with cheese and pesto and Alexandra had a sandwhich with ham, an unusual cheese and lots of vegetables on a bread with sunflower seeds that she really liked. The sandwiches both came with watermelon slices. Additionally, Alexandra got strawberries with her and AlteCocker got a small salad. AlteCocker overdid things with an almond horn for dessert.
Then it was time to kill. We walked down to a park along the water and sat down for awhile just watching the locals. There was a Medieval Museum nearby but it was too late to investgate. Instead we took a walk toward the nearby Grand Hotel hoping to utilize some toilets there. No luck in the toilet department, but we did investigate the menu. It is one of many places in Stockholm that has a restaurant overlooking the water. Will we go back to eat there (and then presumably be able to investigate the toilets)? nNo idea.
Then it was time to make our way to the Storkyrkan Church adjacent to the Royal Palace where there was a Bach organ concert. While Stockholm had considerably cooled off as a result of thunderstorms last night, the inside of the church was still steamy. It made for a bit of discomfort in the church but the concert was excellent. The organist must have sweated the most of all as he was in the organ loft. When we clapped at the end, he held up the music in a symbolic honoring of Bach--a nice touch.
Then it was time for the subway back home. We had a drink at our neighborhood bar, the Exit.
August 8, 2014: Drottingholm Slott
Today was the day for Drottingholm Slott, Sweden's answer to Versailles--well, sort of. AlteCocker had seen this place on her 2012 visit and it was time to go again. For AlteCocker this was entirely a revisit, but something she was determined to show Alexandra. Upon second viewing the palace loses to the Royal Palace in the heart of Stockholm. However, what makes it special are the gardens. We also took the tour of the Palace Theater--a place we will see again when we go to an opera there in two days. The theater is a time capsule from the 1700s and the tour shows you how they made special effects in those days--rocks in a box moved back and forth for thunder, etc.
To get to the palace, we used our trusty public transport passes. We too the tunelbahn (subway) to Brommaplan and then bus 176 to get to Drottingholm. Once you get on bus 176, it takes less than 10 minutes to arrive at the palace and associated sites. Very easy and a lot cheaper than taking the boat.
We first took the tour of the Palace Theater. Then we walked through the park towards the Kina Slott (Chinese Palace). We passed upon paying for the Chinese Palace. We did, however, consume the required waffles in the cafe on the site.
After walking back toward the palace, we finally bought tickets for the inside, but the inside was full of many groups--including some from the Baltic cruises. You can tell a cruise group because they are always following a guide with a number (the number of the tour) on a paddle. Mass invasion by groups does not create a nice atmosphere for individual tourists. In addition to the groups and the warm day, the palace tour route is not well marked leading to going around in circles trying to figure out what to do--and then figuring out that they way to go is around in circles.
After the palace tour we thought we would take the tourist boat back to Stockholm. It was 195 SK round trip. So what do the charge one way? 145 SK. That seemed like a total rip off and we used the public transport passes instead.
For dinner we did a revisit of Matboden Södermalm. Alexandra had fish. AlteCocker had beef. We both went away stuffed and satisfied. On the way home we stopped at the local supermarket for bananas and ice cream to be prepared for breakfast and dessert cravings.
To get to the palace, we used our trusty public transport passes. We too the tunelbahn (subway) to Brommaplan and then bus 176 to get to Drottingholm. Once you get on bus 176, it takes less than 10 minutes to arrive at the palace and associated sites. Very easy and a lot cheaper than taking the boat.
We first took the tour of the Palace Theater. Then we walked through the park towards the Kina Slott (Chinese Palace). We passed upon paying for the Chinese Palace. We did, however, consume the required waffles in the cafe on the site.
After walking back toward the palace, we finally bought tickets for the inside, but the inside was full of many groups--including some from the Baltic cruises. You can tell a cruise group because they are always following a guide with a number (the number of the tour) on a paddle. Mass invasion by groups does not create a nice atmosphere for individual tourists. In addition to the groups and the warm day, the palace tour route is not well marked leading to going around in circles trying to figure out what to do--and then figuring out that they way to go is around in circles.
After the palace tour we thought we would take the tourist boat back to Stockholm. It was 195 SK round trip. So what do the charge one way? 145 SK. That seemed like a total rip off and we used the public transport passes instead.
For dinner we did a revisit of Matboden Södermalm. Alexandra had fish. AlteCocker had beef. We both went away stuffed and satisfied. On the way home we stopped at the local supermarket for bananas and ice cream to be prepared for breakfast and dessert cravings.
August 9, 2014: Vasa Museum
If there is one place in Stockholm you must see it is the Vasa Museum. In 1628 the wooden ship Vasa was launched in Stockholm harbor. A wind was blowing and the ship quickly fell over and sank. The cause of the sinking was poor design. The ship was too narrow and deep and had insufficient ballast. The ship remained on the bottom of Stockholm harbor until 1961 when it was brought to the surface to begin salvaging it. It rests today in a purpose built museum. The ship provides a window into 17th century life. There is no other ship like it in the world. AlteCocker was determined that Alexandra should see this, so off we went, 130 SK (no discount for seniors; AlteCocker did ask). This was one place that AlteCocker did not have a burning desire to see because she had seen it in 2012 when she home exchanged in Taby. She was done long before Alexandra. She went to have a look at a temporary exhibit on the state of the world in 1628 when the ship sank. Eventually, Alexandra had seen enough and we made a brief foray into the gift shop (AlteCocker bought a calendar). Then it was on to have sandwiches at a nearby restaurant, Josefina. AlteCocker also had a piece of apple cake while Alexandria ate the much healthier alternative of fresh strawberries.
Then it was home to put our feet up and dry some clothes. Unfortunately, the dryer is blocked up so that water that should go into a container you need to dump after every load is going all over the floor. An email to our home exchanger in the US indicated that he knew about the problem. The solution? Pick up the bathmat so it doesn't get soaked and let the water drip down on the tile floor and wait a few hours for it to dry. Not the sort of problem AlteCocker would leave for a home exchanger, but we will just have to deal with the mess for the last week of our stay in Stockholm. Home exchanges do have problems. By the way, the clothes drying rack has some broken bits and is not so easy to use either.
After returning home AlteCocker had a nice long nap and then it was out for tapas at the ICA, the local supermarket. Yes, you read that correctly--a supermarket with a tapas bar. Take that, Whole Foods. Alexandra had a proscuitto with a small buffalo mozzerella and tomato salad with fruit for dessert. AlteCocker had a sandwich that had goat cheese, pear and onion on it. Both Alexandra and AlteCocker also had a large glass of wine each. It was a nice relatively inexpensive dinner and when they returned home neither was feeling any pain.
Then it was home to put our feet up and dry some clothes. Unfortunately, the dryer is blocked up so that water that should go into a container you need to dump after every load is going all over the floor. An email to our home exchanger in the US indicated that he knew about the problem. The solution? Pick up the bathmat so it doesn't get soaked and let the water drip down on the tile floor and wait a few hours for it to dry. Not the sort of problem AlteCocker would leave for a home exchanger, but we will just have to deal with the mess for the last week of our stay in Stockholm. Home exchanges do have problems. By the way, the clothes drying rack has some broken bits and is not so easy to use either.
After returning home AlteCocker had a nice long nap and then it was out for tapas at the ICA, the local supermarket. Yes, you read that correctly--a supermarket with a tapas bar. Take that, Whole Foods. Alexandra had a proscuitto with a small buffalo mozzerella and tomato salad with fruit for dessert. AlteCocker had a sandwich that had goat cheese, pear and onion on it. Both Alexandra and AlteCocker also had a large glass of wine each. It was a nice relatively inexpensive dinner and when they returned home neither was feeling any pain.
August 10, 2014: Drottingholm Palace Opera Theater
Today was the day for the Opera Theater at Drottingholm Palace. We went to see Mozart's *Mitridate, Re di Ponto", sund in Italian with Swedish surtitles to "help" us. Fortunately, we had a look at the plot synopsis online before going because Swedish surtitles, while understandable in Sweden (in lieu of English) do not assist the Swedish language impaired. Alexandra also purchased the program--which contained more information. Programs do not come with your seats in European theaters and AlteCocker never purchases them. 90% of the time they end in the trash because all the brochures you collect everywhere become dead weight in the suitcase. Years ago AlteCocker used to ship boxes of those brochures and programs home, but posting things is no bargain anymore, so AlteCocker cheaps out and does not buy them in the first place.
Of course, with Alexandra buying the program, AlteCocker could cheat by looking at hers and not paying for it!
If you go to the opera at Drottingholm, it is wise to get your tickets ahead of time. Today's performance was sold out.
Something else to know about the theater: Dress sparingly. The theater is old with no modern improvements. With a lot of bodies in the seats, it will be warm. The ushers sell both programs and fans--and they do that for a reason. When you go outside for the intermissions, you will welcome the fresh air. They do open all the windows in the theater at intermissions, but much of the theater is closed up during the performance due to the lighting. We chose a 4:00pm Sunday performance. You might want to consider an evening one. It did start to cool off later in the opera. Evening might be more comfortable still.
To get to the opera, we used public transportation (Tunelbahn to Brommaplan and then bus to Drottingholm; there are several buses you can take, we used bus 176 & 177 in our two forays to Drottingholm). For buses: tickets are not sold on the bus. You must have your ticket before you get on the bus. Be prepared.
The opera was excellent. We went back home the same way we came--on public transportation. On the bus back to the Tunelbahn, AlteCocker kept looking at a woman on the bus and finally asked her if she had been in the show. Turns out she was. She was Ismene and was an American named Sara Hershkowitz. The conductor turned out to be an American as well, David Stern. Maybe when Ms. Hershkowitz becomes a principal soloist with the Metropolitan Opera, AlteCocker and Alexandra can impress people by saying we once met her on a public bus in Stockholm.
Of course, with Alexandra buying the program, AlteCocker could cheat by looking at hers and not paying for it!
If you go to the opera at Drottingholm, it is wise to get your tickets ahead of time. Today's performance was sold out.
Something else to know about the theater: Dress sparingly. The theater is old with no modern improvements. With a lot of bodies in the seats, it will be warm. The ushers sell both programs and fans--and they do that for a reason. When you go outside for the intermissions, you will welcome the fresh air. They do open all the windows in the theater at intermissions, but much of the theater is closed up during the performance due to the lighting. We chose a 4:00pm Sunday performance. You might want to consider an evening one. It did start to cool off later in the opera. Evening might be more comfortable still.
To get to the opera, we used public transportation (Tunelbahn to Brommaplan and then bus to Drottingholm; there are several buses you can take, we used bus 176 & 177 in our two forays to Drottingholm). For buses: tickets are not sold on the bus. You must have your ticket before you get on the bus. Be prepared.
The opera was excellent. We went back home the same way we came--on public transportation. On the bus back to the Tunelbahn, AlteCocker kept looking at a woman on the bus and finally asked her if she had been in the show. Turns out she was. She was Ismene and was an American named Sara Hershkowitz. The conductor turned out to be an American as well, David Stern. Maybe when Ms. Hershkowitz becomes a principal soloist with the Metropolitan Opera, AlteCocker and Alexandra can impress people by saying we once met her on a public bus in Stockholm.
August 11, 2014: Rained out on Grinda
Sometimes what is supposed to be a trip highlight turns into a lowlight. That about summarizes our day on Grinda.
Grinda is an island in what Swedes call the Archipelago--the many islands that abut Stockholm. Do not think that the Baltic is just an empty place between Stockholm and Finland. It is full of islands. AlteCocker first viewed the islands in 2007 when she took a Silja Line boat from the western Finland city of Turku to Mariehamn in the Åland Islands and return. She did that journey in a day. She has returned to Scandinavia twice since then. In 2012, when she was in Stockholm, she went on the Silja Line to Riga, Latvia. This trip will end with a stay of two nights in Mariehamn--again taking the Silja Line as transportation. Alexandra goes home before then so AlteCocker wanted her to experience some of the Archipelago. Grinda was recommended by out home exchanger and some others. So today was the day for Grinda. We got up at crack of dawn to catch an 8:30am boat to Grinda to be sure that we had a full day there. First mistake.
It was not a good day on Grinda. The weather report did not look good but it hasn't looked good for many of our days in Stockholm. There have been persistent predictions of thunderstorms that have not appeared. So we decided to ignore the prediction and go anyway. Second mistake.
Moreover, AlteCocker packed her bathing suit and towel. She omitted her umbrella and poncho. Third mistake. AlteCocker thinks you know where this is going. It went there.
We no sooner got off at the north harbor at Grinda than the heavens opened up. There is one "big" hotel on Grinda with a classy restaurant, but it did not open until noon, so we ended up having something called a "fishburger" sandwich (basically a piece of fried fish with a pile of stuff and some sort of dill sauce on top that leaked out). At least we were under cover on the porch while Niagara was falling outside and, in some places, inside. We lingered as long as we could before going to the south boat dock to await the 1:45pm ferry back to Stockholm. Problem: that ferry left from the north boat dock, not the south--major problem because neither Alexandra nor AlteCocker wanted to hotfoot it across the island to reach the other boat dock. We ended up waiting until 2:15pm to at last get a ferry back to Stockholm, at that point we would have taken a ferry anywhere to get the hell off Grinda. Also waiting for the ferry were two also damp Swedes who came to Grinda to hunt for mushrooms. Their load of chanterelle mushrooms amounted to about six. They hadn't had a good day on Grinda either.
Another thing the two tenderfeet from the US did not know was that, if you do not signal the ferries, they do not stop to pick you up on Grinda. Had someone not been so kind as to tell us that, we might still be there.
One thing good happened on Grinda: Alexandra got a chance to wade in the Baltic--which was on her bucket list. AlteCocker took the photos to prove it and passed on that glorious opportunity.
Grinda is highly regarded by Swedes an atmospheric island in the Archipelago. For Alexandra and AlteCocker it turned out to be a bit of a prison. Moral of the story: Do not ignore Swedish weather predictions and look at the boat schedule to learn which dock you should go to before going there. This information will be of no use to AlteCocker and Alexandra as there is no plan to return to Grinda.
Grinda is an island in what Swedes call the Archipelago--the many islands that abut Stockholm. Do not think that the Baltic is just an empty place between Stockholm and Finland. It is full of islands. AlteCocker first viewed the islands in 2007 when she took a Silja Line boat from the western Finland city of Turku to Mariehamn in the Åland Islands and return. She did that journey in a day. She has returned to Scandinavia twice since then. In 2012, when she was in Stockholm, she went on the Silja Line to Riga, Latvia. This trip will end with a stay of two nights in Mariehamn--again taking the Silja Line as transportation. Alexandra goes home before then so AlteCocker wanted her to experience some of the Archipelago. Grinda was recommended by out home exchanger and some others. So today was the day for Grinda. We got up at crack of dawn to catch an 8:30am boat to Grinda to be sure that we had a full day there. First mistake.
It was not a good day on Grinda. The weather report did not look good but it hasn't looked good for many of our days in Stockholm. There have been persistent predictions of thunderstorms that have not appeared. So we decided to ignore the prediction and go anyway. Second mistake.
Moreover, AlteCocker packed her bathing suit and towel. She omitted her umbrella and poncho. Third mistake. AlteCocker thinks you know where this is going. It went there.
We no sooner got off at the north harbor at Grinda than the heavens opened up. There is one "big" hotel on Grinda with a classy restaurant, but it did not open until noon, so we ended up having something called a "fishburger" sandwich (basically a piece of fried fish with a pile of stuff and some sort of dill sauce on top that leaked out). At least we were under cover on the porch while Niagara was falling outside and, in some places, inside. We lingered as long as we could before going to the south boat dock to await the 1:45pm ferry back to Stockholm. Problem: that ferry left from the north boat dock, not the south--major problem because neither Alexandra nor AlteCocker wanted to hotfoot it across the island to reach the other boat dock. We ended up waiting until 2:15pm to at last get a ferry back to Stockholm, at that point we would have taken a ferry anywhere to get the hell off Grinda. Also waiting for the ferry were two also damp Swedes who came to Grinda to hunt for mushrooms. Their load of chanterelle mushrooms amounted to about six. They hadn't had a good day on Grinda either.
Another thing the two tenderfeet from the US did not know was that, if you do not signal the ferries, they do not stop to pick you up on Grinda. Had someone not been so kind as to tell us that, we might still be there.
One thing good happened on Grinda: Alexandra got a chance to wade in the Baltic--which was on her bucket list. AlteCocker took the photos to prove it and passed on that glorious opportunity.
Grinda is highly regarded by Swedes an atmospheric island in the Archipelago. For Alexandra and AlteCocker it turned out to be a bit of a prison. Moral of the story: Do not ignore Swedish weather predictions and look at the boat schedule to learn which dock you should go to before going there. This information will be of no use to AlteCocker and Alexandra as there is no plan to return to Grinda.
August 12, 2014: City Hall And Den Gydene Freden
Well, after their glorious day on Grinda, today AlteCocker and Alexandra conquered Stockholm City Hall. Well, Alexandra really conquered and AlteCocker finally wimped out but that is part of the story.
The City Hall, really a magnificent building but built at the beginning of the 20th century, can be visited only on tours, it contains the hall where the Nobel banquets are held. So, AlteCocker and Alexandra took a tour. Taking a tour involves the guide weaving her way in and out of cruise ship groups--which she did quite successfully. The problem came afterward when Alexandra insisted on going up in the associated tower. Now AlteCocker has a rule against climbing up any tower. The days of conquering the likes of St. Peter's in Rome are long since passed. Alexandra had other ideas and, just to be sociable, AlteCocker agreed to make the climb.
The tower tour starts with the guide admonishing the group to take the stairs all the way up and avoid the elevator which could get "crowded". The elevator only goes part way up but, heck, part way is better than no way at all. Then the real climb began. Everytime it looked like the end, there were more stairs. Finally, you exit into this room where you see a spiral staircase going up, up, and up. Good-bye, Alexandra. AlteCocker looked out the windows at that level and abandoned any thought of the final set of endless stairs. AlteCocker thinks that anyone finally arriving at the top should be given some sort of medal. Obviously, she wouldn't have qualified. She, quite definitely, wimped out. She cannot imagine that the view from the top was demonstrably different from the view at the bottom of the endless staircase where the builder thoughtfully placed windows. She snapped her photos from that level.
After the tower tour--or in AlteCocker's case the half tour--a snack was had at the restaurant on the City Hall grounds. Unfortunately, the dynamic duo missed the lunch buffet so it was just cake and coffee. Then it was off to march through the old city looking for a yarn shop. Alexandra is an expert knitter and mentioned that she's like to bring home some yarn. So some research was done online and after a long march through the old city, the shop of Sticka was located. It had a fantastic selection of wool and Alexandra spent time selecting while AlteCocker rested her tush on a comfortable chair--as far as she was concerned the best item in the shop. Never fear, AlteCocker did not escape without doing damage to her much depleted wallet. She bought a warm neck piece made from some special wool that cost almost as much as what Alexandra purchased.
Then it was time to pick a restaurant for dinner. Den Gyldene Freden was selected--mostly because it was near the yarn shop and the intrepid travelers were pooped and could sit outside to be the first customers at 5:00pm when it opened for dinner. Alexandra and AlteCocker had stumbled upon a restaurant that is used by the Swedish Academy for meetings. The Swedish Academy chooses the winner of the Nobel in literature. A restaurant has been on the site since 1722. Even Alexandra, who owns a house in Frederick, MD, built in 1802, was impressed. Swedish meatballs were consumed by both sides of the euqation. After dinner, Alexandra toured the building while AlteCocker chatted with some teachers from Purdue University (one of whom also ordered Swedish meatballs) who were escaping from their student group studying horses in Scandinavia.
The City Hall, really a magnificent building but built at the beginning of the 20th century, can be visited only on tours, it contains the hall where the Nobel banquets are held. So, AlteCocker and Alexandra took a tour. Taking a tour involves the guide weaving her way in and out of cruise ship groups--which she did quite successfully. The problem came afterward when Alexandra insisted on going up in the associated tower. Now AlteCocker has a rule against climbing up any tower. The days of conquering the likes of St. Peter's in Rome are long since passed. Alexandra had other ideas and, just to be sociable, AlteCocker agreed to make the climb.
The tower tour starts with the guide admonishing the group to take the stairs all the way up and avoid the elevator which could get "crowded". The elevator only goes part way up but, heck, part way is better than no way at all. Then the real climb began. Everytime it looked like the end, there were more stairs. Finally, you exit into this room where you see a spiral staircase going up, up, and up. Good-bye, Alexandra. AlteCocker looked out the windows at that level and abandoned any thought of the final set of endless stairs. AlteCocker thinks that anyone finally arriving at the top should be given some sort of medal. Obviously, she wouldn't have qualified. She, quite definitely, wimped out. She cannot imagine that the view from the top was demonstrably different from the view at the bottom of the endless staircase where the builder thoughtfully placed windows. She snapped her photos from that level.
After the tower tour--or in AlteCocker's case the half tour--a snack was had at the restaurant on the City Hall grounds. Unfortunately, the dynamic duo missed the lunch buffet so it was just cake and coffee. Then it was off to march through the old city looking for a yarn shop. Alexandra is an expert knitter and mentioned that she's like to bring home some yarn. So some research was done online and after a long march through the old city, the shop of Sticka was located. It had a fantastic selection of wool and Alexandra spent time selecting while AlteCocker rested her tush on a comfortable chair--as far as she was concerned the best item in the shop. Never fear, AlteCocker did not escape without doing damage to her much depleted wallet. She bought a warm neck piece made from some special wool that cost almost as much as what Alexandra purchased.
Then it was time to pick a restaurant for dinner. Den Gyldene Freden was selected--mostly because it was near the yarn shop and the intrepid travelers were pooped and could sit outside to be the first customers at 5:00pm when it opened for dinner. Alexandra and AlteCocker had stumbled upon a restaurant that is used by the Swedish Academy for meetings. The Swedish Academy chooses the winner of the Nobel in literature. A restaurant has been on the site since 1722. Even Alexandra, who owns a house in Frederick, MD, built in 1802, was impressed. Swedish meatballs were consumed by both sides of the euqation. After dinner, Alexandra toured the building while AlteCocker chatted with some teachers from Purdue University (one of whom also ordered Swedish meatballs) who were escaping from their student group studying horses in Scandinavia.
August 13, 2014: Boat Trip through the LOcks
Today Alexandra and AlteCocker took a boat trip through the locks in Stockholm. It was Alexandra's choice. AlteCocker ended up falling asleep in the boat. AlteCocker has this rule that, when she begins to fall asleep on European boat trips, it is time to decamp and go home. That day is fast arriving--not that the boat trip was not interesting. It did tie everything the dynamic duo has been told over the past 10 days together.
After the boat trip, the duo had lobster appetizers on the balcony of the Opera House, where there is a restaurant/cafe. Down below the annual culture festival was being celebrated. We heard Sweden's most famous rap singer. AlteCocker cannot tell you what his name was but has to take the word of her waitress at the Opera House that he was Sweden's most famous rap singer. Then, after eating, we went down to view the fun fair in progress for the kids. There was even a ferris wheel where kids were sitting on toilets to go around in a circle. The merry go round was powered by adults riding bicycle like contraptions at the outside of the circle. Then it appeared that clouds were developing so AlteCocker and Alexandra hot footed to the subway and home. AlteCocker had unfortnately consumed some alcohol with her snack which put her straight into a long nap.
There were no major mishaps about which to tell jokes.
After the boat trip, the duo had lobster appetizers on the balcony of the Opera House, where there is a restaurant/cafe. Down below the annual culture festival was being celebrated. We heard Sweden's most famous rap singer. AlteCocker cannot tell you what his name was but has to take the word of her waitress at the Opera House that he was Sweden's most famous rap singer. Then, after eating, we went down to view the fun fair in progress for the kids. There was even a ferris wheel where kids were sitting on toilets to go around in a circle. The merry go round was powered by adults riding bicycle like contraptions at the outside of the circle. Then it appeared that clouds were developing so AlteCocker and Alexandra hot footed to the subway and home. AlteCocker had unfortnately consumed some alcohol with her snack which put her straight into a long nap.
There were no major mishaps about which to tell jokes.
August 14, 2014: MillesGården
Today was, sniff, Alexandra's last day in Stockholm. Alexandra and AlteCocker went to Millesgården via public transport. Millesgården is a garden/house complex created by Carl and Olga Milles. Carl was a Swedish sculptor who deeded his home to the Swedish nation after he moved to the U.S. The house is filled with objects the two collected. Some floors are reminicent of Pompeii and the Milles' laid them themselves. The gardens are full of his sculpture. The gardens reminded Alexandra and AlteCocker of Brookgreen Gardens in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, although Brookgreen is on a much larger scale. Alexandra, more astute than AlteCocker, noticed specific pieces of sculpture at Millesgården that were also at Brookgreen. There was a tour of the gardens offered and Alexandra took that while AlteCocker just enjoyed walking around at her own speed. At the end of it all, snacks were had in the cafe--the way a lot of excursions have ended for the two in Stockholm.
Then Alexandra did some shopping in the museum gift shop while AlteCocker waited for an interminable check out procedure. American credit cards do not have smooth sailing in Europe because European ones have pin codes. When the wrong machine is lined up with your American credit card problems can result. American credit cards are simply on an antique system and very insecure as a result. If they worked with pin codes (similar to bank debit cards), credit cards would be a lot more secure and we would all get fewer fraud alerts as a result. Eventually, however, the items were purchased, and the two made their way to the bus stop and bus 207. The bus connected with the subway at Ropsten and it was a quick journey home from there.
Then Alexandra did some shopping in the museum gift shop while AlteCocker waited for an interminable check out procedure. American credit cards do not have smooth sailing in Europe because European ones have pin codes. When the wrong machine is lined up with your American credit card problems can result. American credit cards are simply on an antique system and very insecure as a result. If they worked with pin codes (similar to bank debit cards), credit cards would be a lot more secure and we would all get fewer fraud alerts as a result. Eventually, however, the items were purchased, and the two made their way to the bus stop and bus 207. The bus connected with the subway at Ropsten and it was a quick journey home from there.
August 15, 2014: Waldermarsudde
Alexandra left for the airport early this morning and AlteCocker arose with the chickens (and Alexandra) to begin the laundry. AlteCocker is reluctant to run the washer at the same time as the dryer as she does not know if they work off the same circuit breaker. So load #1 was put in just as Alexandra left and finished before AlteCocker left the house for the afternoon to go to Prince Eugen's home of Waldemarsudde--just beyond the Vasa Museum on Tram #7. Prince Eugen, a rather unusual royal, was the youngest son of King Oscar II. In case you don't know this, the line of Swedish kings does not go back very far. The original Vasa line ran out and the Swedes, needing a man of some military sagesse, chose one of Napoleon's generals, surnamed Bernadotte, for their king in the 19th century. Those of you wanting to know more, can research all of this. AlteCocker is having a holiday not doing history lessons. Suffice it to say that Sweden's Crown Princess Victoria recently married her personal trainer (now styled as "Prince Daniel"; Swedish royalty is definitely not snobby and the Swedes wholeheartedly supported the marriage). The down to earthness of the Swedish royals just might have something to do with the lack of a very long pedigree--and very different from the British variety.
Returning to Prince Eugen, Eugen lived all alone and devoted himself to art collecting and was a painter of note himself. His house, which has a drop dead view of Stockholm, was deeded to the nation when he died.
AlteCocker spent sometime poking around in the house as well as two small art exhibitions within, but the real start of the show is the location. There is also sculpture in the garden including a copy of the Winged Victory of Samothrace and Rodin's "The Thinker". Never mind the sculpture though. It was a lovely day and AlteCocker just enjoyed sitting on a bench and watching the boats go by back and forth to Stockholm. She also spent sometime vegetating and reading. Not a lot of foreigners visit this site and most of the information was only in Swedish, but there was enough in English to make AlteCocker's visit worthwhile--if a bit frustrating at times.
Then it was back home to throw the second load of bedding wash in the dryer. There will be another load tomorrow and then anything after that will just remain dirty and get washed Chez AlteCocker in the US. This home exchange is almost over.
Returning to Prince Eugen, Eugen lived all alone and devoted himself to art collecting and was a painter of note himself. His house, which has a drop dead view of Stockholm, was deeded to the nation when he died.
AlteCocker spent sometime poking around in the house as well as two small art exhibitions within, but the real start of the show is the location. There is also sculpture in the garden including a copy of the Winged Victory of Samothrace and Rodin's "The Thinker". Never mind the sculpture though. It was a lovely day and AlteCocker just enjoyed sitting on a bench and watching the boats go by back and forth to Stockholm. She also spent sometime vegetating and reading. Not a lot of foreigners visit this site and most of the information was only in Swedish, but there was enough in English to make AlteCocker's visit worthwhile--if a bit frustrating at times.
Then it was back home to throw the second load of bedding wash in the dryer. There will be another load tomorrow and then anything after that will just remain dirty and get washed Chez AlteCocker in the US. This home exchange is almost over.
August 16, 2014: GoodBye Stockholm
Today began with the inevitable packing. While AlteCocker did not buy much (and had much stolen in Istanbul), there is still the problem of how to shove it all in the main suitcase. A smaller suitcase will go with AlteCocker to Mariehamn, Åland Islands, for two nights. She will then return to Stockholm to the home exchange home to pick up her larger suitcase and head for Arlanda Airport, the main international airport for Stockholm, where she has a reservation for a hotel on the night of August 19, 2014. Her flight home is the following day via Icelandair with a change in Reyjavik. So today the main task is packing the luggage in such a fashion that, hopefully, after closing it, there will be no need to open the large suitcase once again (AlteCocker should live so long). A few items, which must be available for perusal by Customs in the airport to get the value added tax returned have to be stashed in the carryon later. The carryon is what will go to Mariehamn with her. Packing is never fun--nor is the end of any holiday. Yuk.
After messing with the bags, AlteCocker went out to seek lunch in a new place turning in a different direction. She eventually happened upon Gogätan Stories in a small shopping mall. "Stories" appears to be a chain with each cafe labelled as to its location with the name "Stories"--Gogätan Stories is on Gogätan Street and the like. As with all such places in Stockholm, it was coffee plus sandwiches and salads. AlteCocker had a delicious--not to mention huge--salad with chicken and a lot of gorgeous fresh vegetables (some roasted before being added to the salad). The onions were especially spectacular. AlteCocker could not finish what she ordered but had no trouble consuming 2 delicious almond biscotti with her coffee. What gives the the cafe its name is the fact that there are lots of books about and people pick one up and read while eating. AlteCocker had her trusty Kindle and worked on her current book--a good idea since all the books AlteCocker saw were in Swedish.
Exiting the restaurant, AlteCocker crossed the street and came upon a Saturday farmer's market. Too late in the trip to enjoy any of the gorgeous vegetables, so no purchases. Then she walked down the other side of Gogätan Street and found the movie theater. She will wait to see any films until she returns to The States even though Sweden does not dub films but subtitles them. Same for TV programs. It is part of the reason why so many Swedes speak virtually perfect English.
Then it was back to the apartment to continue the packing chore and do another load of laundry. AlteCocker will definitely be delighted to return to her large size washer and dryer rather than the teeny ones she's been using in Europe. Nice to do only one load a week rather than one every other day (or, when Alexandra was here, one every day).
The blog will continue here for Mariehamn in the Åland Islands. There may be a blog hiatus until AlteCocker returns to the United States if she lacks computer availability.
After messing with the bags, AlteCocker went out to seek lunch in a new place turning in a different direction. She eventually happened upon Gogätan Stories in a small shopping mall. "Stories" appears to be a chain with each cafe labelled as to its location with the name "Stories"--Gogätan Stories is on Gogätan Street and the like. As with all such places in Stockholm, it was coffee plus sandwiches and salads. AlteCocker had a delicious--not to mention huge--salad with chicken and a lot of gorgeous fresh vegetables (some roasted before being added to the salad). The onions were especially spectacular. AlteCocker could not finish what she ordered but had no trouble consuming 2 delicious almond biscotti with her coffee. What gives the the cafe its name is the fact that there are lots of books about and people pick one up and read while eating. AlteCocker had her trusty Kindle and worked on her current book--a good idea since all the books AlteCocker saw were in Swedish.
Exiting the restaurant, AlteCocker crossed the street and came upon a Saturday farmer's market. Too late in the trip to enjoy any of the gorgeous vegetables, so no purchases. Then she walked down the other side of Gogätan Street and found the movie theater. She will wait to see any films until she returns to The States even though Sweden does not dub films but subtitles them. Same for TV programs. It is part of the reason why so many Swedes speak virtually perfect English.
Then it was back to the apartment to continue the packing chore and do another load of laundry. AlteCocker will definitely be delighted to return to her large size washer and dryer rather than the teeny ones she's been using in Europe. Nice to do only one load a week rather than one every other day (or, when Alexandra was here, one every day).
The blog will continue here for Mariehamn in the Åland Islands. There may be a blog hiatus until AlteCocker returns to the United States if she lacks computer availability.