Paris for a Week: July-August 2015
AlteCocker has been to Paris many times. She is visiting a friend from an old home hospitality swap. The friend has just moved to Paris from Bordeaux. No attacking major tourist draws with long queues this time. Please do not berate AlteCocker for that: She has already seen those.
July 28-29, 2015: Confusion and Musee Carnavalet
And the trip did not begin well. It was another case of AlteCocker goes on vacation.
AlteCocker took Icelandair to Paris, necessitating a change of plane in Reykjavik. So, she turns on her wifi in the airport and, boom, gets informed that one of her cousins has died and there was a minidisaster in one of her rental units. While she is standing in the queue to board the flight, she uses the airport wifi to express condolences and set up the repair in he rental unit. Never a dull moment but worse was to come.
She arrives in Paris and faces the inevitable slow baggage claim system at Charles DeGaulle Airport. Apparently the airport was not well designed which is why this happens everytime. Definitely "tai chi" baggage. An employee tries to explain what the problem is and AlteCocker gathers that it has something to do with lack of automation and too much manual handling. AlteCocker jokes that she can easily identify her suitcase and the guy mentions the color fuschia as a joke. It isn't a joke, my beat up $50 emergency bought suitcase (purchased when the handle broke off another crappy suitcase in Australia) is fuschia. AlteCocker has ceased buying black luggage as it is so difficult to spot when the baggage comes off. Better fuschia! When it does come off, it provides a good laugh!
What did not provide a good laugh was the system AlteCocker and her friend were using to contact one another. It was based on using the WhatsApp application which allows you to chat free with friends who are out of the country. The problem is that you need internet to do it. It has been 15 leaves the airport thinking she will just text on the RER into town.years since AlteCocker has been to Paris and, alas, the internet leaves a good deal to be desired. Alas, you dummie AlteCocker, there is no internet on the RER. Augh! Twice people loaned her phones and she telephones her friend--twice getting voice mail. She begins to worry if something has happened to her friend. Later on she learns her friend was having wifi problems too. So there is a massive "I was there and you went there and when I went there you went somewhere else" mess up. Being informed that the free wifi in McDonald's makes McDonald's very popular in Paris, she repared to a McDonald's. She emailed and attempted to use WhatsApp but there was no response. So, a couple of hours into the mess, AlteCocker uses booking.com and comes up with a hotel for the first day. While it was an unanticipated expense, the hotel, La Parizienne Hotel, 33 Boulevard du Montparnasse, is quite a good deal and modern. There is a place for the old fashioned Paris hotel but a nice modern boutique hotel fits the bill. It is much nicer than any other Paris hotel AlteCocker has stayed at over the many times she has been to Paris and cost $79. Definitely a good deal. Breakfast is extra. While staying near the Montparnasse Station may not be everyone's cup of tea, there is a convenient bus that goes right down to the sites on the Seine, bus no. 96. No one who has been to Paris and has had to use the Metro is fond of either the Montparnasse or Chatelet Metro stops as too many lines meet in those stations and changing lines can take too long. The bus provides a good alternative and you do get to see sites out the window and (if you are lucky) get a seat for at least part of the way.
The hotel disposes of the "what to do with the luggage problem". Not desiring to the waste more time on the "Where the hell is Carole?" problem, AlteCocker leaves her practically dead cellphone on the charger and heads out for the Musee Carnavalet, the museum that focuses on Paris history. The museum is located along the bus 96 route and with some help from the hotel and from a kiosk vendor (who sells AlteCocker one of those little books of Paris maps and the weekly guide to things going on in Paris called "La Semaine a Paris" (in French only), AlteCocker is soon on her way. Lunch was a tuna sandwich and AlteCocker's first Parisian pastry--a charlotte with raspberries at Miss Manon on the Rue St. Antoine. The first day was not good on her waistline!
Then it is off to the museum. Because this museum seems to get passed over by most visitors in favor of The Louvre, there are no crowds--a good thing. There is also a special exhibit on Napoleon--another good thing. AlteCocker passes on the acoustiguide because she is exhausted and has no idea how long she will stay (she lasted maybe 1 1/2 hours). Then it is back to the hotel and yes, Carole has left an email, so that problem has resolved itself as well. Carole is coming over at 5:00pm. It was just a massive "everything that could go wrong went wrong". AlteCocker lets Carole know that she has received her message--if Carole has wifi to receive it. Carole is at work so she has email and gets the message. AlteCocker then sits down, and, the next thing she knows, Carole is knocking on the door and she has had a one hour nap.
Carole and AlteCocker eat in a bistro next door (no pastries this time) and then AlteCocker crashes at the hotel. Carole, who AlteCocker met during a home hospitality swap, used to live in Bordeaux. She recently moved to Paris and has a teeny apartment (Parisians often live in apartments tht are the size of walk in closets in the US). AlteCocker and Carole have been good friends since the home exchange even if they occasionally miss each other in passing. AlteCocker passed a lovely week in Carole's home in Bordeaux a couple of years ago. Now Carole, who commutes to Bordeaux almost every weekend, lives in a closet in Paris. She tells AlteCocker to enjoy her hotel room as the apartment is smaller. When AlteCocker pulls out a cookbook she has bought as a gift from the US, Carole remarks that it is "for Bordeaux". She barely has the ability to cook in Paris with just a microwave. Ah, the sacrifices people make to live in Paris!
After the meal, AlteCocker finally crashes and, of course, awakens in the middle of the night to do the blog.
AlteCocker took Icelandair to Paris, necessitating a change of plane in Reykjavik. So, she turns on her wifi in the airport and, boom, gets informed that one of her cousins has died and there was a minidisaster in one of her rental units. While she is standing in the queue to board the flight, she uses the airport wifi to express condolences and set up the repair in he rental unit. Never a dull moment but worse was to come.
She arrives in Paris and faces the inevitable slow baggage claim system at Charles DeGaulle Airport. Apparently the airport was not well designed which is why this happens everytime. Definitely "tai chi" baggage. An employee tries to explain what the problem is and AlteCocker gathers that it has something to do with lack of automation and too much manual handling. AlteCocker jokes that she can easily identify her suitcase and the guy mentions the color fuschia as a joke. It isn't a joke, my beat up $50 emergency bought suitcase (purchased when the handle broke off another crappy suitcase in Australia) is fuschia. AlteCocker has ceased buying black luggage as it is so difficult to spot when the baggage comes off. Better fuschia! When it does come off, it provides a good laugh!
What did not provide a good laugh was the system AlteCocker and her friend were using to contact one another. It was based on using the WhatsApp application which allows you to chat free with friends who are out of the country. The problem is that you need internet to do it. It has been 15 leaves the airport thinking she will just text on the RER into town.years since AlteCocker has been to Paris and, alas, the internet leaves a good deal to be desired. Alas, you dummie AlteCocker, there is no internet on the RER. Augh! Twice people loaned her phones and she telephones her friend--twice getting voice mail. She begins to worry if something has happened to her friend. Later on she learns her friend was having wifi problems too. So there is a massive "I was there and you went there and when I went there you went somewhere else" mess up. Being informed that the free wifi in McDonald's makes McDonald's very popular in Paris, she repared to a McDonald's. She emailed and attempted to use WhatsApp but there was no response. So, a couple of hours into the mess, AlteCocker uses booking.com and comes up with a hotel for the first day. While it was an unanticipated expense, the hotel, La Parizienne Hotel, 33 Boulevard du Montparnasse, is quite a good deal and modern. There is a place for the old fashioned Paris hotel but a nice modern boutique hotel fits the bill. It is much nicer than any other Paris hotel AlteCocker has stayed at over the many times she has been to Paris and cost $79. Definitely a good deal. Breakfast is extra. While staying near the Montparnasse Station may not be everyone's cup of tea, there is a convenient bus that goes right down to the sites on the Seine, bus no. 96. No one who has been to Paris and has had to use the Metro is fond of either the Montparnasse or Chatelet Metro stops as too many lines meet in those stations and changing lines can take too long. The bus provides a good alternative and you do get to see sites out the window and (if you are lucky) get a seat for at least part of the way.
The hotel disposes of the "what to do with the luggage problem". Not desiring to the waste more time on the "Where the hell is Carole?" problem, AlteCocker leaves her practically dead cellphone on the charger and heads out for the Musee Carnavalet, the museum that focuses on Paris history. The museum is located along the bus 96 route and with some help from the hotel and from a kiosk vendor (who sells AlteCocker one of those little books of Paris maps and the weekly guide to things going on in Paris called "La Semaine a Paris" (in French only), AlteCocker is soon on her way. Lunch was a tuna sandwich and AlteCocker's first Parisian pastry--a charlotte with raspberries at Miss Manon on the Rue St. Antoine. The first day was not good on her waistline!
Then it is off to the museum. Because this museum seems to get passed over by most visitors in favor of The Louvre, there are no crowds--a good thing. There is also a special exhibit on Napoleon--another good thing. AlteCocker passes on the acoustiguide because she is exhausted and has no idea how long she will stay (she lasted maybe 1 1/2 hours). Then it is back to the hotel and yes, Carole has left an email, so that problem has resolved itself as well. Carole is coming over at 5:00pm. It was just a massive "everything that could go wrong went wrong". AlteCocker lets Carole know that she has received her message--if Carole has wifi to receive it. Carole is at work so she has email and gets the message. AlteCocker then sits down, and, the next thing she knows, Carole is knocking on the door and she has had a one hour nap.
Carole and AlteCocker eat in a bistro next door (no pastries this time) and then AlteCocker crashes at the hotel. Carole, who AlteCocker met during a home hospitality swap, used to live in Bordeaux. She recently moved to Paris and has a teeny apartment (Parisians often live in apartments tht are the size of walk in closets in the US). AlteCocker and Carole have been good friends since the home exchange even if they occasionally miss each other in passing. AlteCocker passed a lovely week in Carole's home in Bordeaux a couple of years ago. Now Carole, who commutes to Bordeaux almost every weekend, lives in a closet in Paris. She tells AlteCocker to enjoy her hotel room as the apartment is smaller. When AlteCocker pulls out a cookbook she has bought as a gift from the US, Carole remarks that it is "for Bordeaux". She barely has the ability to cook in Paris with just a microwave. Ah, the sacrifices people make to live in Paris!
After the meal, AlteCocker finally crashes and, of course, awakens in the middle of the night to do the blog.
July 30, 2015: Musee Picasso; Finish Confusion
AlteCocker is happy to report that after the mess of the first day all is well except for the lack of internet at my girlfriend's apartment. She has just moved to Paris from Bordeaux--well sort of. Her job is in Paris but she has a house with a swimming pool in Bordeaux and goes there every weekend. So, in Paris she has what we would call in English a pied a terre (yes, the words we use in English are the same as the ones in French. It is a teeny studio where the living room has been turned into the bedroom. It is in a terrific location adjacent to the Metro (near Ecole Militaire and Invalides). Really a convenient location but, since she has internet at work, she uses McDonald's for internet two doors down from her apartment. So, this morning AlteCocker goes to McDonald's and orders a coffee because there is internet. Well, the internet there in that McDonald's did not work so AlteCocker crossed the street and met with success at Starbucks after ordering a second coffee--the first coffee having been left as the McDonald's as a bad investment.
So, yesterday was the Musee Picasso. Since AlteCocker ran into an exhibit about Jackie Kennedy just adjacent, she knocked off that too. Lunch was what the French call tartine at a nearby restaurant (forgot to write the name down); tartines are toasted bread with various things on them (AlteCocker had ham, cheese and tomato); it was served with a green salad. A dog came out from one of the adjacent businesses and entertained AlteCocker with antics with an obvious puppy dalmation who was there with his owners. The business owner kept yelling at her dog, but it would have been more effective had she just put him on a leash. If you take a table outside, you will see the animals and the smokers although the smoking is much reduced from what AlteCocker remembers. She has not been to Paris in 15 years although, as you have hopefully read, she did a home exchange in Toulouse in 2013. There was a time when she travelled quite frequently to Paris but, since 2001, she has been trying to see the rest of the world and Paris never fit in until this year.
So after lunch, she hit the newly renovated Musee Picasso. She is not a fan of acoustiguide tours in general but the one in the Picasso was excellent. You can do the tour in any order you want to by pressing the appropriate buttons in the rooms/paintings that have the links. Except for one glich on the bottom floor where the English turned into French, the English worked perfectly. It was obvious that the person speaking English was not a native speaker, however, so be be prepared for some accents on the wrong syllables. The acoustiguide tour was an additional 3 euros and totally worth it. The tour concluded, AlteCocker had some fresh strawberries in the Picasso Museum's cafe "sur le toit" (on the roof but not the top roof, a bit lower down, but still a great idea).
Adjacent to the Picasso is a an exhibit about Jackie Kennedy based on the taped reflections she left after the assassination. The photos were mostly familiar. There is an interesting film that goes along with it. If you get there and it is not running, you can direct it to be in English. If it has started already, you will have to wait until the film is over before you can switch the language. The film is long. AlteCocker watched what probably was a good chunk of it in French, but did not stay to watch it in English.
After the museums, located in the same area as the Musee Carnavalet visited on the previous day, AlteCocker hit the Miss Manon on the Rue St. Antoine, for an orange chocolate pastry. She was doing so well until she passed that place. The diet will have to await her return home, she's afraid.
Then it was back to the hotel on bus 96 where she had stashed her luggage. Carole showed up right on time and insisted on taking the Metro to her place instead of a taxi (which AlteCocker was willing to pay for) because she claimed it was so easy. Well, Carole was right. It was easy and, best of all, her apartment is only one floor up (on what the French call the first floor--but Americans would call the second floor).
Dinner was at Brasserie Le Suffren not far from Carole's apartment. A friend of Carole's from work also came. AlteCocker had roast chicken, Carole had steak and her friend had this incredible seafood platter. We had dessert as well but AlteCocker had 3 balls of sorbets (green apple, raspberry and cassis). With all the food eaten severe indigestion was the result. AlteCocker had trouble sleeping. Between the indigestion, residual jet lag and the cortisone series she began taking for her bag (which can interfere with sleep), it was not a restful night.
Well day two of this is over and AlteCocker knows where she will go to connect to internet now. All is well in Paris--until the next disaster.
So, yesterday was the Musee Picasso. Since AlteCocker ran into an exhibit about Jackie Kennedy just adjacent, she knocked off that too. Lunch was what the French call tartine at a nearby restaurant (forgot to write the name down); tartines are toasted bread with various things on them (AlteCocker had ham, cheese and tomato); it was served with a green salad. A dog came out from one of the adjacent businesses and entertained AlteCocker with antics with an obvious puppy dalmation who was there with his owners. The business owner kept yelling at her dog, but it would have been more effective had she just put him on a leash. If you take a table outside, you will see the animals and the smokers although the smoking is much reduced from what AlteCocker remembers. She has not been to Paris in 15 years although, as you have hopefully read, she did a home exchange in Toulouse in 2013. There was a time when she travelled quite frequently to Paris but, since 2001, she has been trying to see the rest of the world and Paris never fit in until this year.
So after lunch, she hit the newly renovated Musee Picasso. She is not a fan of acoustiguide tours in general but the one in the Picasso was excellent. You can do the tour in any order you want to by pressing the appropriate buttons in the rooms/paintings that have the links. Except for one glich on the bottom floor where the English turned into French, the English worked perfectly. It was obvious that the person speaking English was not a native speaker, however, so be be prepared for some accents on the wrong syllables. The acoustiguide tour was an additional 3 euros and totally worth it. The tour concluded, AlteCocker had some fresh strawberries in the Picasso Museum's cafe "sur le toit" (on the roof but not the top roof, a bit lower down, but still a great idea).
Adjacent to the Picasso is a an exhibit about Jackie Kennedy based on the taped reflections she left after the assassination. The photos were mostly familiar. There is an interesting film that goes along with it. If you get there and it is not running, you can direct it to be in English. If it has started already, you will have to wait until the film is over before you can switch the language. The film is long. AlteCocker watched what probably was a good chunk of it in French, but did not stay to watch it in English.
After the museums, located in the same area as the Musee Carnavalet visited on the previous day, AlteCocker hit the Miss Manon on the Rue St. Antoine, for an orange chocolate pastry. She was doing so well until she passed that place. The diet will have to await her return home, she's afraid.
Then it was back to the hotel on bus 96 where she had stashed her luggage. Carole showed up right on time and insisted on taking the Metro to her place instead of a taxi (which AlteCocker was willing to pay for) because she claimed it was so easy. Well, Carole was right. It was easy and, best of all, her apartment is only one floor up (on what the French call the first floor--but Americans would call the second floor).
Dinner was at Brasserie Le Suffren not far from Carole's apartment. A friend of Carole's from work also came. AlteCocker had roast chicken, Carole had steak and her friend had this incredible seafood platter. We had dessert as well but AlteCocker had 3 balls of sorbets (green apple, raspberry and cassis). With all the food eaten severe indigestion was the result. AlteCocker had trouble sleeping. Between the indigestion, residual jet lag and the cortisone series she began taking for her bag (which can interfere with sleep), it was not a restful night.
Well day two of this is over and AlteCocker knows where she will go to connect to internet now. All is well in Paris--until the next disaster.
July 31, 2015: Branly Museum, Twinkling lights
Today AlteCocker did a lot of walking with the usual problems with her aging back (spinal surgery next spring?). She walked down Avenue La Motte-Piquet past the Eiffel Tower and to the Musee du quai Branly. It was a museum she had never visited before. There was a special exhibition on the Inca Empire that she wanted to see and she did. Really interesting. Unfortunately her back prevented a visit to the permanent collection. She sat down in the cafe and had an ice cream instead. This museum does not get a lot of foreign visitors given the brief time most of them have. It's a first visit they all focus on the "A List" sites such as The Lovre, mounting the Eiffel Tower, etc. AlteCocker is focusing on other things because she has been here before. Having said that, the Musee du quai Branly is definitely worth a look if you are in Paris for longer or a repeat visitor. To get there from the Eiffel Tower, just turn right as you approach the Seine and walk along the quai. You won't miss it.
After the museum visit, AlteCocker continued her walk along the quai to the Alma Marceau Station. If you are having trouble following me, here is a map of the Paris Metro. Outside the station is a replica of the torch from the Statue of Liberty--which, of course, was made in France. On the chains surrounding it were some of those love locks recently removed from one of the bridges. They have found other places to deface monuments and AlteCocker wonders how many relationships have remained solid because the put a lock somewhere in Paris and threw away the key. In a few minutes, after entering the station, with one change, AlteCocker was back at La Motte-Piquet station. The apartment is across the street. Arriving at the apartment, she promptly fell asleep. When Carole returned it was time for dinner plans. We went to Cafe de Commerce. Carole had duck a l'orange; AlteCocker had shredded duck in a sort of ravioli. The restaurant has a varied menu--not just duck, but the two of us just decided to "quack" for the meal. AlteCocker liked this restaurant better than Le Suffren--maybe because we had less to eat. We passed on dessert. Tomorrow, August 1st, is after all the day of our great stuffing. You will have to keep reading for that one.
After eating we sauntered over to the Champ de Mars to await the twinkling of lights from the Eiffel Tower despite AlteCocker's miserable back. No doubt she is going to have to unpack the cane from her suitcase--ugh to the effects of old age. While AlteCocker had seen the Eiffel Tower many times, she had never seen the lights twinkle. They turn them on for 3-5 minutes each hour after sundown. AlteCocker does not think that the display continues past midnight, but she did not stay to check it out. When we returned to the apartment, Carole was able to connect to free internet, but, alas, AlteCocker had no luck and gave up. She is not using the most powerful travel computer (just a netbook that she does not have to worry about losing should there be a repeat of the disaster in Istanbul--perish the thought.
After the museum visit, AlteCocker continued her walk along the quai to the Alma Marceau Station. If you are having trouble following me, here is a map of the Paris Metro. Outside the station is a replica of the torch from the Statue of Liberty--which, of course, was made in France. On the chains surrounding it were some of those love locks recently removed from one of the bridges. They have found other places to deface monuments and AlteCocker wonders how many relationships have remained solid because the put a lock somewhere in Paris and threw away the key. In a few minutes, after entering the station, with one change, AlteCocker was back at La Motte-Piquet station. The apartment is across the street. Arriving at the apartment, she promptly fell asleep. When Carole returned it was time for dinner plans. We went to Cafe de Commerce. Carole had duck a l'orange; AlteCocker had shredded duck in a sort of ravioli. The restaurant has a varied menu--not just duck, but the two of us just decided to "quack" for the meal. AlteCocker liked this restaurant better than Le Suffren--maybe because we had less to eat. We passed on dessert. Tomorrow, August 1st, is after all the day of our great stuffing. You will have to keep reading for that one.
After eating we sauntered over to the Champ de Mars to await the twinkling of lights from the Eiffel Tower despite AlteCocker's miserable back. No doubt she is going to have to unpack the cane from her suitcase--ugh to the effects of old age. While AlteCocker had seen the Eiffel Tower many times, she had never seen the lights twinkle. They turn them on for 3-5 minutes each hour after sundown. AlteCocker does not think that the display continues past midnight, but she did not stay to check it out. When we returned to the apartment, Carole was able to connect to free internet, but, alas, AlteCocker had no luck and gave up. She is not using the most powerful travel computer (just a netbook that she does not have to worry about losing should there be a repeat of the disaster in Istanbul--perish the thought.
August 1, 2015: After 15 Years, a return to the Pre Catalan
Just why AlteCocker had to return to Le Pre Catalan in the Bois de Boulougne is obvious if you have read the story of her first visit. The restaurant is located in the Bois de Boulogne at the exterior of Paris. The first time AlteCocker took a taxi with her daughter. This time Carole figures out how to take the Metro (to Porte Maillot) and then bus 244. The only problem with this is we get to see some of the "local color"--the transvestites who haunt the road sides looking for clients. The Bois can be quite "dicey" at night, but we had no trouble at all. This is a truly wonderful unpretentious 3 star Michelin--up from 1 star when AlteCocker went the first time. The cost for the meal for Carole and AlteCocker was 310 euros eating from the set price menu (which is more than sufficient and a good deal when you look at the a la carte menu). Included in that price was a half bottle of wine ordered, as per usual, by consulting the price before the vintage. AlteCocker has this theory that there are only 3 kinds of wine: (1) wine you like; (2) wine you don't like; and (3) wine you can't afford. The Pre Catalan is a restaurant where you can spend a lot more for the wine than for the food!
In any event it was a fine meal. There were various extras between the courses. Carole had rognons de veau (veal kidneys) and AlteCocker had a seafood dish with squid cooked two ways for the main course. We both ordered a concoction with fruit and meringue for dessert. There were, of course, some small pastries at the end as "surprises". Those were an eclair, small tarte with some creme and coconut on top and another small square one made of two types of jellied fruit. There was, by the way, one waiter there who remembered General Pierre de Benouville who picked up the tab for the meal 15 years ago but, alas, his ghost did not reappear to pay the bill this time. One can have such an experience only once in one's life. After a meal laden with calories and good memories, we got a taxi home and skipped the local color. One waiter at the restaurant joked not to tell his wife that he worked in the Bois de Boulogne.
It is a sad fact that many Americans really should not eat at this sort of restaurant. There was a family of four next to us who really did not like the food. The children were too young for such an experience and the parents seemed to have problems with the courses as well, pushing food away, etc.. Watching them with the cheeses was very entertaining because they really had no clue. My advice to Americans is to experience a restaurant such as The Pre Catalan after you have some experience with French food in more modest places where you can order things with which you might be more familiar. After the meal, as we waited for a taxi, the man in that group opined that in the US cheese is something you put on hamburgers. AlteCocker, after she finished cringing, told him, "Not the cheeses served in The Pre Catalan." Of course, American cheese is really processed, well, not even cheese in France. AlteCocker and Carole were amused but he spent a lot of money for lunch and didn't even like the food--what a waste, but, to each his own.
Returning home at 3:30pm from the main event of the day, AlteCocker, having a had a bit of wine, wanted a rest. Since she is on prednisone for her back, found a nap hard to come by. Instead she noticed that one of her garments needed the application of needle and thread, so she took care of that. Carole ran errands.
Then there was the decision as to what to do in the evening. It was, after all, Saturday night. AlteCocker noticed a production of a one man show based on the poetry of Arthur Rimbaud. It was way out at the edge of Paris near Porte de la Villette. The actual Metro stop is Ourcq. There is a kosher supermarket there and lots of military around with automatic weapons. Everyone has terrorism problems these days and the French are on alert after the recent attacks. We barely made the show, but they were very glad to see us! The show has been going on in various places for a long time. The theater was tiny and, the night we went, we were the only paying customers--probably because it was August 1st and the start of the traditional French vacation month. The others seemed to have some connection with the show. At one point AlteCocker was dragged up on stage to dance with the protagonist. It goes without saying that the show is for French speakers only. As per usual, AlteCocker did not get every word, but her French is good enough that she knew what was going on. She also knew that she had forgotten much of what she thought she knew about Arthur Rimbaud. Time to read a book! The name of the play is "Arthur Rimbaud: Il Faut Etre Absolument Moderne!" AlteCocker has looked high and low all over the internet for a link to the specific production but she hasn't been able to find one. So, if you want to see this show, you weill need to look for yourself or look in "La Semain a Paris"/"Pariscope" when you get to Paris. Unfortunately, the address she got at the theater for the blog is wrong. Apologies. The one man in the performance we saw was Fabien Franchitti--clearly a guy with a future in the theater with hopefully a bigger audience than the night we were there.
After the show it was quite late when we returned Chez Carole and the next act was to sleep.
In any event it was a fine meal. There were various extras between the courses. Carole had rognons de veau (veal kidneys) and AlteCocker had a seafood dish with squid cooked two ways for the main course. We both ordered a concoction with fruit and meringue for dessert. There were, of course, some small pastries at the end as "surprises". Those were an eclair, small tarte with some creme and coconut on top and another small square one made of two types of jellied fruit. There was, by the way, one waiter there who remembered General Pierre de Benouville who picked up the tab for the meal 15 years ago but, alas, his ghost did not reappear to pay the bill this time. One can have such an experience only once in one's life. After a meal laden with calories and good memories, we got a taxi home and skipped the local color. One waiter at the restaurant joked not to tell his wife that he worked in the Bois de Boulogne.
It is a sad fact that many Americans really should not eat at this sort of restaurant. There was a family of four next to us who really did not like the food. The children were too young for such an experience and the parents seemed to have problems with the courses as well, pushing food away, etc.. Watching them with the cheeses was very entertaining because they really had no clue. My advice to Americans is to experience a restaurant such as The Pre Catalan after you have some experience with French food in more modest places where you can order things with which you might be more familiar. After the meal, as we waited for a taxi, the man in that group opined that in the US cheese is something you put on hamburgers. AlteCocker, after she finished cringing, told him, "Not the cheeses served in The Pre Catalan." Of course, American cheese is really processed, well, not even cheese in France. AlteCocker and Carole were amused but he spent a lot of money for lunch and didn't even like the food--what a waste, but, to each his own.
Returning home at 3:30pm from the main event of the day, AlteCocker, having a had a bit of wine, wanted a rest. Since she is on prednisone for her back, found a nap hard to come by. Instead she noticed that one of her garments needed the application of needle and thread, so she took care of that. Carole ran errands.
Then there was the decision as to what to do in the evening. It was, after all, Saturday night. AlteCocker noticed a production of a one man show based on the poetry of Arthur Rimbaud. It was way out at the edge of Paris near Porte de la Villette. The actual Metro stop is Ourcq. There is a kosher supermarket there and lots of military around with automatic weapons. Everyone has terrorism problems these days and the French are on alert after the recent attacks. We barely made the show, but they were very glad to see us! The show has been going on in various places for a long time. The theater was tiny and, the night we went, we were the only paying customers--probably because it was August 1st and the start of the traditional French vacation month. The others seemed to have some connection with the show. At one point AlteCocker was dragged up on stage to dance with the protagonist. It goes without saying that the show is for French speakers only. As per usual, AlteCocker did not get every word, but her French is good enough that she knew what was going on. She also knew that she had forgotten much of what she thought she knew about Arthur Rimbaud. Time to read a book! The name of the play is "Arthur Rimbaud: Il Faut Etre Absolument Moderne!" AlteCocker has looked high and low all over the internet for a link to the specific production but she hasn't been able to find one. So, if you want to see this show, you weill need to look for yourself or look in "La Semain a Paris"/"Pariscope" when you get to Paris. Unfortunately, the address she got at the theater for the blog is wrong. Apologies. The one man in the performance we saw was Fabien Franchitti--clearly a guy with a future in the theater with hopefully a bigger audience than the night we were there.
After the show it was quite late when we returned Chez Carole and the next act was to sleep.
August 2, 2015: Street Market, Parc Andre Citroen
We got started late after yesterday's adventures. The first act was the street market at the Metro La Motte-Piquet immediately under the the Metro above. It could not have been more convenient. AlteCocker bought two key chains with Eiffel Towers for the kids next door--which she must have dropped before coming back because they disappeared. Hopefully those items (value 1 euro for both) will be the only thing AlteCocker loses in Europe. She also got the kids t-shirts and did not lose those! As usual a market is a good place to snap photos with all the colorful vegetables. We purchased a variety for a salad including some AlteCocker had not eaten before (black tomatoes!). Additionally we got some green plums that she loves. She hadn't seen them since years ago in Israel (way before the blog--or even kids). She has fond memories of devouring some on the plane home from Israel as she knew the food dogs at the airport would not permit them. Hope these taste as good!
Then Carole was off to do errands and AlteCocker to do the blog. Because we started the day late--having gotten home from the play late--today was very lazy. It also provided a good rest for AlteCocker's back--which is, well, a pain in the tush and back. We took the Metro to a park at the edge of Paris, Parc Andre Citroen. There was a tethered balloon in the park which we hoped to go up in for a view but there was too much wind so the balloon wasn't running. Bah! We enjoyed just laying there on the grass for awhile. For anyone with children, the park has a large area where the children can run and get squirted by fountains jets that appear and disappear. France has a lot of these sorts of fountains and it's important for people in the towns when it gets hot. The park was mobbed but AlteCocker has been fortunate with the heat--it's been cool. She has been surprised. In the past she has fried in summer--as, no doubt, she will do in Spain. But, in Paris, the weather has been perfect.
Nothing to report in the restaurant department today. After yesterday's "grand repas" we had salads for lunch and some sausage and potatoes bought in the Motte-Piquet market for dinner. Neither Carole nor AlteCocker was up to a big meal. You can only take that so often before it's overkill. One place AlteCocker does want to try is the sushi place near the apartment. Apparently not only pizza gets delivered here--sushi gets delivered. Of course, since the sushi place is so close to the apartment, we would not need delivery. If Paris has sushi delivery, can the US be far behind?
Then Carole was off to do errands and AlteCocker to do the blog. Because we started the day late--having gotten home from the play late--today was very lazy. It also provided a good rest for AlteCocker's back--which is, well, a pain in the tush and back. We took the Metro to a park at the edge of Paris, Parc Andre Citroen. There was a tethered balloon in the park which we hoped to go up in for a view but there was too much wind so the balloon wasn't running. Bah! We enjoyed just laying there on the grass for awhile. For anyone with children, the park has a large area where the children can run and get squirted by fountains jets that appear and disappear. France has a lot of these sorts of fountains and it's important for people in the towns when it gets hot. The park was mobbed but AlteCocker has been fortunate with the heat--it's been cool. She has been surprised. In the past she has fried in summer--as, no doubt, she will do in Spain. But, in Paris, the weather has been perfect.
Nothing to report in the restaurant department today. After yesterday's "grand repas" we had salads for lunch and some sausage and potatoes bought in the Motte-Piquet market for dinner. Neither Carole nor AlteCocker was up to a big meal. You can only take that so often before it's overkill. One place AlteCocker does want to try is the sushi place near the apartment. Apparently not only pizza gets delivered here--sushi gets delivered. Of course, since the sushi place is so close to the apartment, we would not need delivery. If Paris has sushi delivery, can the US be far behind?
August 3, 2015: Reminders of Moliere
AlteCocker got started late. On a long trip, you cannot keep up the up at down and rush around story for long. Besides it is a vacation. You are not supposed to be scheduled every minute unless you want a forced march instead of a vacation.
There are these walking tours of Paris that you can take that are always great. You learn a few things and inevitably it sparks further reading. So today AlteCocker decided to do a tour focussed on Moliere. The tour did not start until 3:00pm and AlteCocker really did not have the energy to do something beforehand. So AlteCocker got herself situated at Metro Louvre-Rivoli and had lunch a short distance away at La Cooperative on rue du Rivoli (a "tournedos de saumon" (tranche of salmon) with couscous. She did not have wine because you do need a lot of energy for walking tours in Paris. She did assist some Koreans at the next table who were struggling with the escargot "pinces". There is a technique to it and AlteCocker taught them. After lunch AlteCocker wandered a bit in the area and ended up buying two lightweight t-shirts because it was very hot and she was sweating bullets in the shirt she had on. Paris sales were on and the shirts were 10 euros apiece (no tourist picture of the Eiffel Tower on the shirt!). Stores here, by law, have set season of sales. When there are no sales, however, the stores do get around it by having "promotions".
The Moliere tour was great, but, a warning: It is in French. There are no similar tours in English because there simply would not be enough customers. As always, AlteCocker does not get every word but enough to make it enjoyable. The guide's website is here. But there is no need to contact him privately, just check the weekly news magazine "Pariscope" and all such walking tours are listed. They never disappoint but you have to know French. Now AlteCocker knows she is due to read a book about Moliere (add that to the book about Rimbeaud from the theater the other night).
There are these walking tours of Paris that you can take that are always great. You learn a few things and inevitably it sparks further reading. So today AlteCocker decided to do a tour focussed on Moliere. The tour did not start until 3:00pm and AlteCocker really did not have the energy to do something beforehand. So AlteCocker got herself situated at Metro Louvre-Rivoli and had lunch a short distance away at La Cooperative on rue du Rivoli (a "tournedos de saumon" (tranche of salmon) with couscous. She did not have wine because you do need a lot of energy for walking tours in Paris. She did assist some Koreans at the next table who were struggling with the escargot "pinces". There is a technique to it and AlteCocker taught them. After lunch AlteCocker wandered a bit in the area and ended up buying two lightweight t-shirts because it was very hot and she was sweating bullets in the shirt she had on. Paris sales were on and the shirts were 10 euros apiece (no tourist picture of the Eiffel Tower on the shirt!). Stores here, by law, have set season of sales. When there are no sales, however, the stores do get around it by having "promotions".
The Moliere tour was great, but, a warning: It is in French. There are no similar tours in English because there simply would not be enough customers. As always, AlteCocker does not get every word but enough to make it enjoyable. The guide's website is here. But there is no need to contact him privately, just check the weekly news magazine "Pariscope" and all such walking tours are listed. They never disappoint but you have to know French. Now AlteCocker knows she is due to read a book about Moliere (add that to the book about Rimbeaud from the theater the other night).
August 4, 2015: Pere LaChaise Cemetery
AlteCocker decided to do another walking tour. Strange to say, in her many visits she had never been to the Pere Lachaise Cemetery, where a lot of famous people--both French and foreigner--are buried. Edith Piaf is there. Frederic Chopin is there. Oscar Wilde is there (tomb full of kisses). Above all, Jim Morrison is there. Because AlteCocker wanted to do it right, she decided to do another walking tour (yes, in French again). The guide was Bertrand Beyern. Beyern is a real scholar and just knew it all and the visit was definitely worth the 10 euros. Again you could contact Beyern through his site, but AlteCocker found the tour in the back of Pariscope with the other walking tours. This one was like a college lecture with a very animated professor. Do not think it will be a 2 hour tour (the usual posted length of the walking tour); it was almost 3 3/4 hours and AlteCocker became the star of the show when she fell down and scraped her knee (nothing major this time). She quickly cleaned it out and continued. Like an idiot she chose today to forget her cane which she carries for uneven pavements on the day she needed it. She was on the Metro when she realized she'd left it behind. The fall was the inevitable result.
The tour was really superb, but, be forewarned, it was almost 3 3/4 hours long! At the end, AlteCocker was exhausted and almost ready for a coffin herself, but off she went back to the apartment. Sitting down for a few minutes, she woke up an hour later. Off to Starbucks to do the blog and have problems with the internet connection again. When she used Internet Explorer instead of Chrome things improved although that requires remembering passwords. Ugh! The one thing she misses from home is a decent internet connection. Well, AlteCocker cannot complain as she is visiting her friend who just set herself up in Paris and has a lot to do with her pied a terre--including dealing with a balky toilet. Fortunately, her friend Carole is very handy. With that toilet, she needs to be. She learned a lot while waiting for handymen not to show up. Same story in the US for me.
Because AlteCocker and Carole are going out to dinner, AlteCocker skipped lunch and just had a snack. Dinner was at Brasserie Le Piquet. AlteCocker had a steak frites. Carole had a chicken dish and AlteCocker (but not the much slimmer Carole) had a fruit tart for dessert. AlteCocker should learn a lesson from Carole about calories.
The tour was really superb, but, be forewarned, it was almost 3 3/4 hours long! At the end, AlteCocker was exhausted and almost ready for a coffin herself, but off she went back to the apartment. Sitting down for a few minutes, she woke up an hour later. Off to Starbucks to do the blog and have problems with the internet connection again. When she used Internet Explorer instead of Chrome things improved although that requires remembering passwords. Ugh! The one thing she misses from home is a decent internet connection. Well, AlteCocker cannot complain as she is visiting her friend who just set herself up in Paris and has a lot to do with her pied a terre--including dealing with a balky toilet. Fortunately, her friend Carole is very handy. With that toilet, she needs to be. She learned a lot while waiting for handymen not to show up. Same story in the US for me.
Because AlteCocker and Carole are going out to dinner, AlteCocker skipped lunch and just had a snack. Dinner was at Brasserie Le Piquet. AlteCocker had a steak frites. Carole had a chicken dish and AlteCocker (but not the much slimmer Carole) had a fruit tart for dessert. AlteCocker should learn a lesson from Carole about calories.
August 5, 2015: Lunch with an Old Friend
Back again at Starbucks this morning before leaving for lunch at Leon de Bruxelles on the Champs Elysees. Leon is chain restaurant (don't cringe; some chain restaurants are actually good). Leon is a place AlteCocker always frequents once because the specialty is mussels and she loves the mussels with garlic. What makes today special will be that she is meeting her friend John--an ex home exchanger--from Melbourne, Australia. This is the second time this has happened with this particular exchanger. Last time we spent a few days hanging out together in Sydney. AlteCocker was there on, of course, a home exchange and he was also exchanging Melbourne to Sydney. We have become good friends. He is at the beginning of a home exchange in Paris for 3 weeks, so the only possibility was today. We always say, from the old song, "We'll meet again. I don't know where. I don't know when" after we meet.
OK, so AlteCocker arrives a half hour early and John is even earlier and AlteCocker gets a huge welcome. John is just starting an over 2 month trip and his cousin Sue is traveling with him. AlteCocker had mussels with garlic, Sue had mussels marieniere (mussels in a pot) and John had salmon. The meal was great as usual except when the waitress dumped John's water all over the table destroying some french fries in the process (we got more). Because it was the afternoon we passed on wine. AlteCocker told John dessert was elsewhere--at Laduree up the street. John and Sue had already seen it! John and AlteCocker had gateaux St. Honore with pistachio cream and strawberries and Sue had a raspberry tart. At the end, all were happy and stuffed.
Saying good bye to her friends, AlteCocker went over to the Musee Guimet to view some artifacts from the temples in Cambodia. Then it was back to Carole's apartment to do some laundry, have a rest and get ready to eat dinner with Carole. Carole had chosen a neighborhood restaurant but, alas, it was time for "fermature annuelle" (annual closure for vacation. So we went back to the Cafe de Commerce. Carole had veal kidneys and AlteCocker had a steak. Carole talked into a chocolate liegois for dessert (ice cream sundae). The ice was a dense chocolate. A diet awaits back in the US--for sure.
OK, so AlteCocker arrives a half hour early and John is even earlier and AlteCocker gets a huge welcome. John is just starting an over 2 month trip and his cousin Sue is traveling with him. AlteCocker had mussels with garlic, Sue had mussels marieniere (mussels in a pot) and John had salmon. The meal was great as usual except when the waitress dumped John's water all over the table destroying some french fries in the process (we got more). Because it was the afternoon we passed on wine. AlteCocker told John dessert was elsewhere--at Laduree up the street. John and Sue had already seen it! John and AlteCocker had gateaux St. Honore with pistachio cream and strawberries and Sue had a raspberry tart. At the end, all were happy and stuffed.
Saying good bye to her friends, AlteCocker went over to the Musee Guimet to view some artifacts from the temples in Cambodia. Then it was back to Carole's apartment to do some laundry, have a rest and get ready to eat dinner with Carole. Carole had chosen a neighborhood restaurant but, alas, it was time for "fermature annuelle" (annual closure for vacation. So we went back to the Cafe de Commerce. Carole had veal kidneys and AlteCocker had a steak. Carole talked into a chocolate liegois for dessert (ice cream sundae). The ice was a dense chocolate. A diet awaits back in the US--for sure.
August 6, 2015: More Confusion
The Paris end of the holiday was now officially over. Carole insisted on returning to the apartment to escort me to the RER. AlteCocker had had enough luggage schlepping and really wanted to take a taxi. When Carole did not show up promptly (some Metro problem AlteCocker learned later), AlteCocker finally decamped and did what she wanted to do anyway--she sprung for a taxi and a calm ride out to CDG. AlteCocker could have walked it didn't matter. The plane was two hours delayed. Then, after we finally got on the plane, there were 3 empty seats. They waited for the bus to return to the terminal for 3 more passengers to fill the seats. Warning to anyone flying Vueling: They sell more seats than they have. Make sure you check in early enough to get your boarding card or you might be on a wait list no matter your internet confirmation. So, all and all, it was good AlteCocker was early.
The trip blog now continues here.
The trip blog now continues here.